Pentair UltraTemp 120 H/C Compressor Issue

panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
131
Navarre, Florida
Let me start out, the unit is brand new, installed January 2020. I thought I had the heating temperature swing issue resolved, but no joy. The set temperature for heat is 86° and the unit will heat until 90° to 92°. The control board and temperature probes have been replaced several times(4 different service provides and 7 service calls). The new issue this morning is that the compressor fails to start, this after it showing it running (heating) for 5 hours. After the countdown, I hear a "pop" that sounds like the relay is engaging, but no heat or compressor activity.

2 hours with Pentair support was useless. After troubleshooting with them, they came to the realization the compressor isn't running based on no heat from the returns and a lack of cool airflow from the condenser fan...

What are the chances that this unit would qualify under the lemon law and get a whole unit replacement? Pentair states the soonest they can get a service call dispatched is 6-8 weeks, due to the lock downs.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
18,072
Northern NJ
We don't give legal advice here but it looks like Florida Lemon Laws only apply to motor vehicles. Does the UltraTemp have wheels?

I would take Pentair up on scheduling the service call when they can. You have notified them of the warranty claim and that should begin the process.
 

panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
131
Navarre, Florida
They will begin the process, but it will take 6-8 weeks before they can schedules someone to come out to look at it. Maybe not Lemon Law, but Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act should cover it.
 

Newdude

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2019
3,210
NY
Mine blew up about 2 hours into use. There is some sort of sensor (2 inch square) that attaches to the compressor and it exploded like a cannon. We happened to be outside and thought the whole thing was shrapnel on the inside from the sound. They couldnt glue it back on and Pentair replaced the whole unit, but it took the PB a couple days of fighting them. Pentair wanted to somehow blame the electrician but it ran fine for 2 hours before blowing up.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,372
It looks like there's an extra black wire coming in with the power wires. What does that go to?

The red wire looks nicked. Is it damaged?

What color wires go to T1 and T2 besides the power wires?

Do you have 240 volts going to T1 and T2?

Did you get the available $200 rebate?

 
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panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
131
Navarre, Florida
1- It looks like there's an extra black wire coming in with the power wires. What does that go to?

2- Do you have 240 volts going to T1 and T2?

3- Did you get the available $200 rebate?

1- The extra black wire is the RS485 cable going to the control panel from the EasyTouch
2- Yes
3- Yes
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,372
The burned up red wire goes to the run windings. Probably a defective compressor. I think that you probably need a new heat pump.
 

panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
131
Navarre, Florida
I have good flow thru the heater, 50gpm when heater is on. I'll have to take a few pictures of the setup.
The run capacitor is reading open on the compressor side.

speed1.JPG
 
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swamprat69

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2019
245
Las Vegas, NV
L1 connection should be Line (Voltage) coming in. Probably burnt off from being loose. Looks like someone tried to really crank on the set screws for L1 and L2 as the set screw slots are deformed. Is this a 240 volt single phase unit. The contactor looks to be a 3 phase contactor with the third load leg not connected to anything? If it is a single phase unit, you may be able to just switch some wires around and use the unused set of contacts on the 3 phase contactor as it appears that the burnt wire is the incoming Line Side.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
19,372
T1 and T2 are the incoming power wires.

L1, L2 and L3 go to the compressor.

L1(red) goes to the main run windings. L2(black) goes to common, and L3(purple) goes to the start windings.

Note that the above is from the wiring diagram in the installation manual.

However, I would have thought that L1 and L2 would be line in with T1, T2 and T3 being load out to the compressor.

So, it does seem backward.

It's a contactor, so it should work either way, but it does seem odd.
 
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panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
131
Navarre, Florida
My electrician came by today to check everything prior to the new unit arriving, and found this on the compressor run side of the disconnect box. Pentair is getting a call tomorrow morning!
 
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swamprat69

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2019
245
Las Vegas, NV
On start up the compressor will draw 4-5 times the normal running amps while it is starting up. This should only be temporary while the compressor motor comes up to speed (generally less than a second or two for this size motor). If the compressor won't start up (locked rotor), it will overheat the motor and a temperature sensor in the windings should open and keep it from drawing this excessive amperage for an extended period. When the temperature sensor cools down, it will try to start again. These amperage parameters are listed on the compressor name tag as RLA (running load amps) and LRA (locked rotor amps). LRA is only meant to be temporary and puts a strain on the electrical system. If it is more than temporary or repetitive it will reveal any weaknesses in the electrical circuit i.e loose connections or quality control problems in any part in the circuit. Seeing as how you have had failures at the compressor, contactor and disconnect, it would be most likely that the problem originated at the compressor and caused the upstream weaknesses to be revealed unless replacing the visibly damaged contactor, wiring and disconnect allow the compressor to start normally.