Pentair IntelliBrite 5G LED Driver Failure

I am not really a fan of Pool LED lights and it's not because they are a bad idea, a lot of work goes into the LED enclosure packaging, thermal design.

The protocol for setting colors etc is done by turning the lights on and off for specific times, which is annoyingly slow, but cheap to manufacture.
The lamp brightness is still low compared to a car headlamp, yet has much better cooling opportunity!

Yes, LED lights are cheaper to make than the older motorized halogen lamps, but (I guess here is my point!) they are much harder to repair!

Digging deeper . . . .

Take this little gem from a 2 year old Pantair LED PCB:
106068
The component labelled "U1" is a chip called a 3 channel LED driver, it looks pretty sad!
106069
It is a $9 part from a company called Analog Devices, from the data sheet it can dim each channel providing up to 0.75A from any input voltage from 3V to 30V.
Since, I trust the manufacturer and this chip generates a constant current, my guess is it has seen an output overvoltage condition when switching the inductors. This is a common faw in these designs.

So, all the LED's are still good, what to do next?
Well, I could buy a new chip, but the device has an exposed pad underneath and the PCB is built on a copper substrate so, requires special reflow soldering tooling.
A new PCB is in the $300 to $400 range (maybe higher).

Ok, so I may choose to build my own . . . what is the market like for alternative Pantair PCB's?
 

bdavis466

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
Aug 4, 2014
4,691
San Clemente, CA
The market could use an aftermarket replacement. I've replaced 50+ pentair lights that all had driver failures and there are many reports of failures here on the forum.

One member seemed to have success installing a large heat sink on the board but if you have a more robust driver that would surely be better.
 
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ogdento

Bronze Supporter
Mar 30, 2015
324
Chico, CA
Ha, yeah I would!

This is the thread where AZ_MB made the giant heat sink that Brian mentioned:

The driver comes in a 125 and a 150 degree part (I got the 150)... I did get a replacement chip but I haven't swapped it yet. I've got a hot-air rework tool but even with pre-heating the board (mine is the older aluminum one) it might not be enough to get the part off without wrecking the traces.

If you have a go at yours we'd love to see some pics and hear how it went!

Tom