Pentair IC40 Low Salt light

[Mr. Muriaticacid]

My IC40 has been giving me an alternating low salt/salt OK light. Of course, when I saw the low salt light I added a bag of salt. After a day or two it showed that salt was still low so I added another bag of salt. Still low. I took the SWG off and cleaned it with MA, 100% MA! I forgot to dilute it, oops. After about 2 minutes I drained and flushed it. I'm wondering if I damaged the SWG?

Now, the indicator lights show low salt (steady red) one day and salt OK (steady green) the next day. The salt level is at 4400 due to the 2 bags of salt. The SWG doesn't appear to be making chlorine on the red days but it does on the green days. I was messing with the output buttons one day to find the life left on the SWG and I had a 20% indication. I took that to mean 80% life left but this is the third year we have had this SWG running at 20% for 12 hours a day usually from mid April to mid October. We also got hit by lightning in May and it blew out our telephones and router.

So my questions are:

1. Did I damage the SWG using 100% MA?

2. Did I accidentally change some settings when looking to find the life left on the SWG that would make the chlorine output change every other day?

3. Do I have 20% or 80% life left based on the lights?

4. Is it possible that the system got hit by lightning back in May and that is what caused the low salt light in the first place?

It's kind of a comedy of errors!
These are my readings from yesterday.

Ph 7.4
FC 6.5
CC 0.5
TA 60
CH 550
CYA 50
Borates 50

Thanks!

 

[Catanzaro]

Regarding your SWG, I am new to mine, so not too much experience. Let's bump this thread. Although, I use a Taylor K-1766 salt kit. Your first step is to confirm the true salt reading with a good quality kit. Then, with my SWG (Hayward T-9), I am able to reset the SWG module to read exactly (start off with) the correct levels. Mine is new and only a month or so old and the display is pretty accurate between 3,200 and 3,300, which is exactly what I tested.

You may want to reset the unit (if possible). Then for a few days, unplug everything and then plug back in. Hard to tell if any damage was done. Take the unit back out and inspect with a flashlight and rinse thoroughly again. I would assume damage would be done if you allowed 100% acid in the unit for quite a long time. If this was less than a few minutes, you could be ok (not sure). Then plug back in. Maybe switch to liquid for a few days.

This reminds me where my Windows 7 computer (Yes, still better than others) Aero theme just went out. Could not fix for any reason, even though there were all these solutions. Left it alone. Two weeks later, I come downstairs and the computer had an error and fixed itself. So maybe, this will happen with the SWG. Try resetting and maybe unplugging it for a few days and starting all over.

Outside of this, you may want to contact Pentair. Amazingly customer support today with these companies is top notch. I know that Hayward has really gone the extra mile in the last few years, especially with any questions, I have had. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[mknauss]

A Low Salt indication on a Pentair IC, if the salt level in the pool is OK, is typically the flow sensor. They are easy to fix. If in Warranty, Pentair will replace. If not, there are replacements available on line for around $60. The Pentair brand replacement is about $120.

The reason the flow sensor shows up as Low Salt as it is the temperature sensor in the flow sensor that goes bad. Thus the IC cannot properly calculate the salt level of the water and reports as low salt.

You most likely dramatically reduced the life of your cell using full strength MA. You should never have to clean your cell if your pool water chemistry (CSI specifically) is kept in proper range. Never clean a cell if there is not visible scaling that cannot be removed with a stream of water.

 

[Philo]

"Never clean a cell if there is not visible scaling that cannot be removed with a stream of water".

Do you mean CAN be removed with a stream of water?

 

[pooldv]

No, if the scale can be removed with a stream of water then an acid wash is not needed. My IC40 gets finicky as the water temp drops down toward 70. Once I start getting false low salt errors or when the water temp drops below 70 consistently I turn the cell off and switch to bleach.

 

[Philo]

If you take all the negatives out of the sentence to make it more readable:

"clean a cell if there is visible scaling that can be removed with a stream of water".

I'm not sure this is correct......

 

[pooldv]

Almost

"clean a cell if there is visible scaling that can NOT be removed with a stream of water".

 

[mknauss]

I need to run my grammar corrector next time ..............

Sorry.

 

[Philo]

I don't think there are any spelling or grammar rules anymore.

P.S. My High School age Grandson (GPA 3.5) was never even taught cursive writing.......

 

[Catanzaro]

I don't think there are any spelling or grammar rules anymore.

The schools do not even teach proper grammar anymore, only spelling. Unless you want to attend higher education for grammar. Personally, I have sent PM to certain members to kindly do this off line when something is off subject. If something does not sound right, then a question should be asked to kindly explain.

 

[Mr. Muriaticacid]

Ok, thanks everyone. I think I will just replace it at the start of next year. With the MA overdose and lightning and going on 4 years old I think a fresh start is due.
I also have the Taylor K-1766 test kit and my salt is at 4400.

 

[MurrietaRob]

I noticed my chlorine level was a lower than normal so, after verifying all other chemistry parameters were correct (as a consummate TFP practitioner) figured I should inspect my IC40; With note of mknauss' comment about no scaling if chemistry is correct, I can attest as there was not any visible; and have not needed to look at cell since early 2017 ; anyway, I put a quick hose wash down the unit, regreased orings, etc. and reinstalled; before I cleaned it, all lights were green, but after reinstall now the low salt light is on, and measurement on ScreenLogic Connect shows 0 salt - was 3600 before; I re-flushed the unit, reset the controllers and breakers to no avail. I performed the "more" button tests and the unit shows the correct temp range, and the flow light is green when pump is on, but low salt indicator persists. Oh, I always disconnect the IC40 from power before performing maintenance too... My question is could this still be a bad temp sensor, even though the "more" test seems to indicate the correct temp range? I'm leaning towards a service call or an unfortunate cell replacement... back to bleach until further notice!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Rob,

When you first power the cell up does it go through the calibration cycle where the two lights flash back and forth for about 2 minutes?

I would leave it on for at least 12 hours and then recheck it... Unlike some cells, it only tests for salt at first power up and then about 12 hours later..

I don't know for sure, but I would think a bad thermistor would just give you a bad salt reading not a zero salt reading..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

I assume your water is warm enough (above 60F or so) that the cold water shut off is not the problem. The other normal issue if the IC40 is showing low salt with adequate salt in the pool water is the Temp sensor. I am not sure if the diagnostics can give a false positive. Calling Pentair may help on that.

Replacing the Temp sensor is very easy. Aftermarket ones can be purchased for around $50. Of course, if under warranty, let Pentair fix it.

Take care.