Pebble Tech experts needed

What you are describing with words and pictures is the loss of plaster “creme” in the areas between the pebbles. Loss of cementitious material will happen either by acid washing the plaster OR if the pool water is aggressive (low saturation index) for long periods of time. It is also due to a natural variation in the plaster mix as it was applied to the pool. The original plaster applicator might not have been careful with keeping the plaster pump properly filled with mix and they may have overdone the pebbles a bit. Improper troweling at the time of plaster application can also affect the ratio of pebble exposure to plaster creme. What you are seeing is the natural density variation of pebble stones on the mix. At 16 years, it’s not at all unusual to see that.

How are you adding acid to the pool to control pH? Are you keeping a good watch over your saturation balance so that your water doesn’t become aggressive towards plaster?

As for fixing it, you can’t. No plaster company would chip out areas and patch as that would look worse than what you have right now. Your pool needs to be replastered soon (within the next 4 years or so). Start saving up and think about how you would like to remodel the pool. If you don’t plan to be at that house in the next 5 years, then leave it alone and let the next owner deal with it.
 
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That was exactly what I was thinking when I first saw it, too much Pepple created small gaps in between so very little plaster creme could get in between = weak. Brushing with steel brush didn’t help.

I control the ph very well, adding acid average every 2 weeks to keep ph in proper range.

What condition is considered “aggressive” to plaster? I think low ph is one.
 
Read up here on CSI. Trouble Free Pool

Low pH which lowers your CSI out of the safe range is considered aggressive. If you have hard water (high CH), you can offset those effects and mitigate the risk of scaling by keeping your pH and TA in the lower range. You can calculate your CSI by using Pool Math. Generally, you want to maintain a CSI of -0.01 to -0.3.
 
I haven’t done any CSI test yet and I don’t have problem with scaling so my CSI could be too low. That might be the reason. Once I get all the chemicals to proper level I will definitely do a CSI test. I am very curious now.

Thx
 
CSI is not "a test". It is a combination of all of the test results + water temp. Pool Math calculates it for you! It is that easy! So input your last full set of tests (pH, TA, FC, ect + water temp) Look towards the middle and you will see the CSI area.

Kim:kim:
 
No one has yet asked for test results.......that is the core of TFPC. I suspect what you are seeing is calcium deposits imbedded into your pool surface.
and I don’t have problem with scaling
Why do you think that?

Have you tried to apply acid to the spots?

You have two separate problems. I would work on the black algae first and, when that is solved, then address the stains
 
I don’t see white scale deposited along the water line like I used to have during the first few yrs owning the pool which I treated with acid.

I am confused, you mean apply acid to the areas where plaster came off or to where the black algae is ?

Right now I am waiting for my cya to come up, having a sock hanging in the pool.
 
I can't see the plaster coming off in the pic.....it appears to be a white coloring buildup and that is normally scale.

Black algae and scale are pretty much unrelated. Again, work on the black algae with proper chlorine methods and then address the (scale, stains, whatever you think it is) when the black algae issue is solved.

I don't understand your CYA comment....is it related?
 

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Once you start the process of adding the CYA, start the SLAM. As long as you tested the CYA you had before, and you add a certain amount of CYA granules, you know what your CYA will be. Assume that number and SLAM.
 
I thought I should wait for cya to come up to normal level before shocking the pool to treat algae.

You should follow the SLAM Process process step by step as described in the link. No shortcuts. It is different and gets better results then what pool stores call “shocking the pool”.
 
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