order of events while replacing water due to high calcium hardness

Good afternoon, TX Splash :). Thanks for not giving up on me. I have bought SO many bottles of the Walmart liquid chlorine. I think I have about 15 left. The best I could do was a code 19 345. I have had trouble getting the FC level up to 20 on pool math and am presuming it is due to the age of the liquid chlorine, so I changed the % to 8 and my last addition of chlorine just ran it up to 26. I think that there is quite a bit of inconsistency in the strength left in the bottles.? Is there any way to know the strength of what I am using?

I am hoping to get my husband involved tomorrow and see if he will clean the filters again, remove the light, and the drain cover which awhile back my husband pointed out that 1/2 of it seems to be discolored (kinda dark grey/black). Do you think that could be algae underneath?? It is pretty chilly here, so he might tell me no way! haha! No steps or ladders (built in plaster steps only). My mind is totally blown as to how the water can be so clear and I can't pass this darned overnight chlorine test!

Ohhh yeah... I received my pool testing chemicals! woot! I am now using 5ml (which I learned is 1tsp) for the FC all day until my last reading of the day, which I will then use the 10ml. I will also use the 10ml for the 1st reading in the morning so I am comparing correctly, as well as have the sample for cc. Sound good?

CYA is down to 45 (from 50) so I will look up the new SLAM goal.
CH 470 (down from almost 600 a week ago)
PH 8.0 (I really should not do anything about this? My original concern was white spots in the pool and my csi # today is .56 which says prone to scaling)

I am doing my best to remain positive, but I had NO idea that this process would be so lengthy. I came across a post where someone was told it is common to be a week and sometimes as long as 3 weeks. I sure hope that isn't me, as I am hoping to stay in now for awhile in hopes that this virus will not spread any further.
 
CYA is down to 45 (from 50) so I will look up the new SLAM goal.

Your CYA is still 50. We always round UP. If the dot disappears between 50 and 40 we call it 50.

PH 8.0 (I really should not do anything about this? My original concern was white spots in the pool and my csi # today is .56 which says prone to scaling)

Your pH is not 8. Your pH test is not valid with FC above 10. To understand about this read Taylor pH Test is Unreliable When FC > 10
 
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Good morning. Today is my 9th day into this SLAM and I am starting to feeling defeated. October and our brand new pool seems like it was so long ago and I feel slightly crazy saying that maybe (maybe?) the pool plaster looks a different color than when it was first finished? None of the attached photos capture a very faint orange shade that is in the plaster, which I am hoping is not an evenly distributed metal staining throughout the pool. We just didn't spend more time than necessary out there while it was cold. Over the weekend, we started analyzing every little thing and wondering what was already a certain way or what may have changed. I am attaching a few photos to see if anything definitive stands out to you. Most obviously is the discoloration of the drain cover. I am sure we saw this happening but simply didn't deal with it. This does not brush or vacuum off.

Also, the picture that most clearly depicts streaks in the bottom of the pool... this is how much of our pool looked prior to the builder doing a 4 day acid bath (or at least that is what my memory tells me this looks like...we really do not recall THESE specific streaks being there and not being improved by the acid bath. Also..does not brush or vacuum up

In the other 2 photos, I tried to capture the bright white spots that I noticed that started this whole thing. They were brighter and clearly white when I started this. They seem to be fading away?

Our latest test results:
Friday night into Saturday FC loss was 2 (21.5 - 19.5)
Saturday night FC loss was 2 (21.5 - 19.5)
Sunday night FC loss was 1.5 (20 - 18.5)

It was too cold to be in the pool to remove the drain cover and light and the filter pressure hasn't gone up. I have been faithful in brushing all surfaces.
 

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Were you buying a cement pond to enjoy swimming in or a piece of custom designed art work?

Is you pool functional, sanitary, and enjoyable to swim in?

I don’t see any major problems in the recent pictures you posted. You may have some cosmetic issues that are typical of plaster pools. They are natural variations in a hand applied product.
 
Were you buying a cement pond to enjoy swimming in or a piece of custom designed art work?

Is you pool functional, sanitary, and enjoyable to swim in?

I don’t see any major problems in the recent pictures you posted. You may have some cosmetic issues that are typical of plaster pools. They are natural variations in a hand applied product.

ha! I did not realize when I set up the cement pond name that it would be seen by others. :) Just a bit of a joke. It is supposed to be over 90 degrees on Wednesday and it sure would be nice to take a dip!. I just can't seem to pass an overnight chlorine test.

I am happy to hear that the streaking is considered normal, as I was wondering if there was staining that I didn't realize was staining (if that makes any sense?). My husband insists that the drain cover definitely was only 1 color at 1 time. We don't know what would cause it to look as it does now.
 
A pool is safe to swim in with FC up to SLAM FC level. So let the FC drop a few PPM from your SLAM FC level and go swim then raise the FC up after the swimming is over.

Pools get stained. They live outdoors in a harsh environment. It happens on some sooner then others. A bit of tarnishing on a drain cover should not be a big deal.
 
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Well you have made my day with the info re: being able to swim! Thanks! :).

I posted the pic of the stained drain cover in case it might be correctable or to know if it might be thought that we were or are doing something wrong that caused it so that we can correct it. I appreciate your input.
 
My husband insists that the drain cover definitely was only 1 color at 1 time. We don't know what would cause it to look as it does now.
Later when you can actually go down there and remove the cover, give it the Vitamin C tab test. Maybe some dry acid briefly diluted and rubbed on there as well. I don't recall, did you ever remove that minerals cartridge to ensure no more copper is going into the water?
 
Later when you can actually go down there and remove the cover, give it the Vitamin C tab test. Maybe some dry acid briefly diluted and rubbed on there as well. I don't recall, did you ever remove that minerals cartridge to ensure no more copper is going into the water?
Thank you for the possible explanation. I will make note to do that. :). Yes! I did remove the mineral cartridge right away when y'all told me to.
 
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WOOOOO HOOOOO! After 10 days of SLAMing, our pool finally passed our overnight chlorine test on Tuesday night. I periodically checked the FC level throughout the day yesterday and around 5:30 last night, it was down to 9 (from 19.5 at 6am).

Water test at 5:30PM On Wednesday

FC 9
CC 1
PH 7.7
TA 90
CYA 45
TEMP 80
CSI .27

I added 11 oz 31.45% MA (according to pool math to lower to 7.4)

I presumed that since the last FC check was at 5:30, it was hot, we still had a couple hours of daylight and the fact that we were cutting the grass that there would be more FC consumption and without testing I added 56oz of 8% (guessing at % as it is actually old 10% bleach), not wanting my level to drop too low.

This morning 8:00am readings:

FC 12.5
CC 0
PH 7.6 (not the 7.4 that I was shooting for, but still yay!)
TA 80
TEMP 76
CSI .08

Thank you, Thank you for all of your patience and advice. I will try to spend some free time each day reading about all kinds of advice and different scenarios on the site in hopes of never needing another SLAM! haha. Please let me know if you have any immediate advice or instructions that I should be following. I plan to check my levels daily. Is there a best time of day for checking and balancing?
 
Great news indeed! :goodjob:

full
 
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From this point forward, simply continue to stay familiar with the TFP recommended levels and articles available. Always watch the FC compared to your current CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. As for the pH, TA, and CH, the PoolMath tool or APP will keep you straight. Don't get too obsessive about a specific pH or TA number. Throughout the year, they should settle into a stable range (i.e. pH of 7.7 and TA of 80) and not need much work. But just keep an eye on things and let us know if you have any other questions. Enjoy. :swim:
 
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Hi! I saw your post to @Beerfloater and said I would check on you............you did GREAT! You had some of the best help around to get your pool all sorted out AND you followed directions and did not give up!!! :party:

Kim:kim:
Thanks for checking on me. :) I would be lying if I said that I never considered giving up. I came across a post somewhere that said 1-3 weeks is common so I was determined to hang in there awhile longer. It was so crazy how the water was clear for so long before it passed. Today, full sun and has only lost .5 FC in 4 hours. Wuttttt??? haha! I am extremely grateful for the guidance by Texas Splash and the opportunity to learn in this forum! Looking around the pool now, I see the signs that I didn't recognize before. We chalked up the "dust" on the bottom to our sandy soil and it didn't occur to me that the skimmer basket should be clean with chlorinated water flowing through it and it was dirty looking. Thanks again everyone! Heading out to swim this afternoon!
 
I actually use a 1 gal paint strainer net from HD's paint dept.

Great advice, Pat! Using them for a week now, so much better than actual skimmer socks. No noticeable impact on water flow, but still filtering all those little bits and critters out.

For my fellow Aussies: 4l paint strainer bags from Bunnings have the perfect size.
 
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