My readings from this morning were as follows:
FC 2.6
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 80
CH (honestly unsure Last test was 600 early in the week....see below)
CYA 50
TEMP 78
CSI .38
Our pebble pool was just installed last October. I thought that I was maintaining it properly by checking the chemicals every week and putting the chlorine and PH back in line once per week. Recently I noticed bright white, very small smooth spots appearing in the pool and at first was inclined to think that it was just part of the pebble aggregate being exposed... still curing? as I have read that the curing process can take up to a whole year. Our calcium hardness of the water out of the spigot was only 150 when I had it tested back in October. I take water in to Leslies monthly, as per the plaster warranty instructions and saw that the number increased each month. I read that I should keep the PH on the low end near 7.2 to keep scale from forming once the calcium hardness level had gone over 400 (a few months back it had reached that point). My last leslies test was 3/5 and it was at a 600 (597 to be exact). Again, I was WEEKLY (as per what I thought was correct) adding MA to bring the PH back down..every week it would climb to around 8 (I was also using test strips because I was intimidated by the Taylor Kit that my husband bought and asked me to learn how to use...sigh...I know, I know . A neighbor was over a few nights ago and told me about the CSI reading and told me to get straight and learn the Taylor kit. I did and am now comfortable using it and have been testing daily. He thinks the white spots may be calcium deposits. Today, my husband cleaned the cartridge filters and we started replacing the water by filling while simultaneously removing water through a hose hooked up to the pump leading out into the yard. After 5 hours of this, our CH is only down to 570. In the meantime, I see the water turning green from the water being put into the pool. At this point I am wondering if I need to be testing and adding chemicals for the chlorine and ph as this process seems as though it will take a long time. Thoughts? recommended order of events? Any idea why my calcium hardness got so high? I have been using liquid chlorine and 31.5 20 bromine muratic acid. So sorry if I have provided way too much info. but I am so ridiculously new to this and feel clueless. Oh.... lastly... once the water line had receded, we did notice a faint smooth white chalky line on the tile. You can't see it unless the tile is dry (sand colored tile).
FC 2.6
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 80
CH (honestly unsure Last test was 600 early in the week....see below)
CYA 50
TEMP 78
CSI .38
Our pebble pool was just installed last October. I thought that I was maintaining it properly by checking the chemicals every week and putting the chlorine and PH back in line once per week. Recently I noticed bright white, very small smooth spots appearing in the pool and at first was inclined to think that it was just part of the pebble aggregate being exposed... still curing? as I have read that the curing process can take up to a whole year. Our calcium hardness of the water out of the spigot was only 150 when I had it tested back in October. I take water in to Leslies monthly, as per the plaster warranty instructions and saw that the number increased each month. I read that I should keep the PH on the low end near 7.2 to keep scale from forming once the calcium hardness level had gone over 400 (a few months back it had reached that point). My last leslies test was 3/5 and it was at a 600 (597 to be exact). Again, I was WEEKLY (as per what I thought was correct) adding MA to bring the PH back down..every week it would climb to around 8 (I was also using test strips because I was intimidated by the Taylor Kit that my husband bought and asked me to learn how to use...sigh...I know, I know . A neighbor was over a few nights ago and told me about the CSI reading and told me to get straight and learn the Taylor kit. I did and am now comfortable using it and have been testing daily. He thinks the white spots may be calcium deposits. Today, my husband cleaned the cartridge filters and we started replacing the water by filling while simultaneously removing water through a hose hooked up to the pump leading out into the yard. After 5 hours of this, our CH is only down to 570. In the meantime, I see the water turning green from the water being put into the pool. At this point I am wondering if I need to be testing and adding chemicals for the chlorine and ph as this process seems as though it will take a long time. Thoughts? recommended order of events? Any idea why my calcium hardness got so high? I have been using liquid chlorine and 31.5 20 bromine muratic acid. So sorry if I have provided way too much info. but I am so ridiculously new to this and feel clueless. Oh.... lastly... once the water line had receded, we did notice a faint smooth white chalky line on the tile. You can't see it unless the tile is dry (sand colored tile).