Open and clear

[savdoc2]

We pulled the cover off yesterday and I took my first test readings this morning. We have not added anything except for water hauled in from the municipal water fill station. We created a frame using a ball, rope and nylon strapping to keep a mesh winter cover off the pool so we had no leaves on the cover to fight with and to make "tea". This is the best opening we have had since we got the pool in 2004.

FC .05
CC 0
pH 7.2
TA 70
CH 130
CYA 60
Salt 1920-2100 (it read between the 2 lines so not sure which to go with)
Borate 30

Water temp is 59

I am going to start with adding some chlorine to bring hte FC level up. I will then add some salt to get the SWG going. I think I will bring the borates up to 50 and the reassess the pH. pH hovered at 7.2 last season, so I will see what its trend is this year. I think I will add some CYA to bring it up greater than 60 so it doesn't fall below.

Am I missing anything?

 

[PaulR]

You could downsize the pump and save on electricity. Unless you have some water features where you need the extra oomph to drive them.

Oh, you meant chemistry-wise... with an AGP it all sounds good to me. pH 7.2 is on the low side but if it's stable and you're comfortable in the pool, I don't think it would be a real problem.
--paulr

 

[savdoc2]

I am not concerned about the pump at this point.

 

[PaulR]

I didn't think so... lame attempt at humor, sorry.
--paulr

 

[camelai]

If you raise the borates won't the Ph change some?

 

[PaulR]

Borax on its own will raise pH, in fact it's the preferred method (other than aeration) as you add the least TA with borax, compared to other things that raise pH.

Borates means adding either a huge pile of borax plus a load of muriatic acid to compensate for the pH increase, or adding boric acid which is essentially pH neutral.
See: so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html
--paulr