Older Jandy AquaPure 700 SWG cell ruined by exposure to high salt and chlorine?

Ocean 50

Silver Supporter
Aug 17, 2019
19
Palm Springs, CA
New pool owner through a house purchase 3 months ago. SWG unit worked well.The cell was new 6 months ago. Cell exposed to 4500 ppm salt and high chlorine. Pool guy is gone now after cell quit and chlorine was low. Drained the pool and salt is at 3200ppm now. Cleaned the cell with Muratic and pressure water. Golf ball size white calcium on cell grid. Cell works for a while then service light comes on. 120 and 121 codes indicating low current at the cell. Voltage at the cell is always 35 volts not 22 to 28. All voltages on test points and current on front and back board test well. If I turn off the controller for a minute then back on the code lights go out and all works well. Sometimes just leaving the unit on will make the service light go out and if will work again.

I think the high salt and chlorine ruined the cell through corrosion.

Is this enough information to be pretty certain the cell is bad? Is the off brand cell for $300 any good?
Should I consider just buying a UV unit? It seems like this older unit is not supported well.

Thank you for your help!
 
Welcome to the forum!
High salt levels typically just shut the SWCG off to protect it. High chlorine (which I bet you think is a whole lot different than what we think) has no effect.
Read Alternative sanitizers and "chemical free" pools--The Truth! about UV. As I assume this is an outdoor pool, it gets all the UV it needs from the sun.
Can you post a full set of test results from your own test kit?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
I'll post a Leslie pool supply report.
FYI -- we do not trust pool store tests.
TFP is based on the premise that pool owners do their own testing using a proper test kit.
Order a TF-100

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.

I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.
 
Was the old cell a 700 or a 1400?

Most likely, the old cell was a 1400 but they replaced it with a 700 because the 700 is cheaper.

The 1400 has 13 plates but the 700 only has 7 plates. The 700 makes half the chlorine of the 1400.

The circuit board has to be configured differently for each cell type.

Post a picture of the board if you want to confirm.

Make sure that the circuit board is configured properly and make sure that the cell power cord is new.
 
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Hello James,

Sorry for the delay and thanks for the response. Here is a picture of the board. I have the system running and producing chlorine. It still stays in the reverse mode a long time and will generate the 120 or 121 low current error code. This will go away in a half-hour or after I turn the board on and off. I'll probably run it till it breaks completely then at least I can troubleshoot it better. If I was convinced that the cell was bad I would replace it. I cannot find information on the length of time that each cycle will run. I would think that in the boost mode the different cycle on and off times would be predictable.
 

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Hi James,

The model Number is a Aqua Pure 700. The label says both Aqua Pure 700 and Aqua pure 1400. A dot exists next to each model number.
The dot is marked in alignment with the Aqua pure 700 label. This is a Aqua Pure 700. Is that the model number that you are asking about?
 

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Make sure that the trisensor is set to program "B". Is it currently set to A or B?

Where the trisensor is plugged into the board there is a little adapter board between the plug and the board. That is only used on the old style trisensor. Remove the little adapter board.

How are you testing salinity?

What is the salinity reading from the box?

Are the connection points for the cell and cord clean?

Have you checked the cell plates for visible damage?

Can you check the amperage going to the cell while it's on?
 
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Yes the adapter board is still installed. The program is on A. I could not find the firmware type without removing the
PC Board. The software code that came up on the LED did not appear in any documents so I left it on A. I assumed that it only affected the salt water reading,
I'll make those changes right now.

Thanks!
 
You may have saved this SWG unit. The SWG has ran 15 minutes correctly with your changes. The cell shuts off and rests. I then up the percentage of time and the cell turns on. Turn the time down and it rests again without error. I am running it at boost right now for an hour. If it does not present an error code then it is probably running perfectly. I'll update in an hour. Thank you very much for your help. Jandy does not support the public directly so we are quick to throw out the old equipment and get something new. Not always a bad thing I guess?
 
The temp is correct and the Salinity are correct 3.1 and 83F. The SWG It did not like the boost and the service light came on again. code 120. I turned it off then on and it is running correctly. I'll run it a few days at the normal settings (40%) and see what happens. Over the weekend I'll take a picture of the inside of the cell. I felt that the post looked suspicious where it connected to the grid element inside the cell. I cleaned a golf ball size white ball of salt/Calcium on the inside of the cell. Salt was excessive by operator error and we have real hard water.

Thanks again!
 
Anything in the cell was not salt. Saturation point of NaCl in water is 357000 ppm. Calcium carbonate (or other calcium products), but not salt.
 
Palm Springs has Colorado River water. Same as I. It is hard, but very manageable.

Using your softened water for makeup water is a good idea if you can. It eliminates the calcium but not the TA.

If your CH is currently very high then do a water exchange with fresh water and use the soft water for makeup due to evaporation.
 

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