Old water out... what next?

PoolFunYikes

Gold Supporter
May 19, 2020
24
New Hampshire
After a year of living with a chemistry problem caused by excess sulfamic acid from a stain treatment, I’ve bitten the bullet and drained my 15yr(?) old water and have a truck of fresh water coming in 2 days. Some background.. then my questions...
Original problem was iron staining, which lead me to use Jacks #2 stain treatment. This lifted stains but the sulfamic acid caused havoc on my chlorine consumption.Ive read it slowly recovers, but after a year... I’m now done watching chlorine convert straight to CC upon adding. In my year of frustration I learned along the way that AA treatment is even more effective the iron. But the amount of sequestrant to keep stains off was also frustrating. Tried a CuLator and trapped some but not enough to make a difference. I believe the source of Iron was some FloJet lights that hat innards rotted out and alsouse of untreated well water for topoffs.

To my questions:
1. Once drained, is there a simple hw-store or pool-store White paint product recommended to touch up chips in fiberglass (no filling needed, just color)?

2. What is the order in which I should balance out new water for a salt pool? I have ph,TA, salt, and FAS-DPD tests at my disposal and also some strips for hardness. I have salt on the ready and Muriatic acid, calcium, and sodium bicarbonate for TA. Just looking for advice in order of operations.
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PoolFunYikes

Gold Supporter
May 19, 2020
24
New Hampshire
I’ve touched chips up with Testors hobby enamel, assuming that will work. Still would like a confirmation on order of ops. I’m thinking from reading:
Liquid Cl until I hit about 3ppm FC
Add CYA via sock
Balance TA
Add salt
Balance TH

is that right?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
37,032
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No real need to focus on TA unless less than 50 ppm. Same with CH (you show TH which is not what we measure) unless under recommended level for your pool type.
Recommended Levels

Also, as you will be closing the pool for winter, no need to add salt at this time. Do it after you open. Do not add more than 30 ppm CYA now and adjust in spring.
 

PoolFunYikes

Gold Supporter
May 19, 2020
24
New Hampshire
No real need to focus on TA unless less than 50 ppm. Same with CH (you show TH which is not what we measure) unless under recommended level for your pool type.
Recommended Levels

Also, as you will be closing the pool for winter, no need to add salt at this time. Do it after you open. Do not add more than 30 ppm CYA now and adjust in spring.
Thank you for replying, the pool water arrives today. It’s actually an indoor heated pool so will not be closed this winter. Can you please advise how this changes the recommendations?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
37,032
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK. Add the indoor to your signature.
You can add the salt. You can also run the lower CYA level year around as it is indoors. Otherwise no change.
 
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