So, we've had tons of rain in Missouri and I've had straight line winds that took my pool fence and roof and threw it in the field, I've had tons of trouble clearing my pool so I put a floculant in. I found debris that was covering the bottom drain, it was laminate from an old school lunch table. Anyhow I vacuumed to waste cleared it out, refilled and turned on the pump. I guess I should have back washed first. The pool went cloudy, I have zero chlorine. I put 2 gallons of pool shock in and am wondering if I should put more? I'll be taking a sample in to the pool store tomorrow. Ugh so frustrating
Not a very good pool person
- Thread starter Angiek65
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I've watched the video's, I've got to order the pool testing kit that's been recommended. I was hoping for more insight into the floculant I used, am I going to need to do it again, is that what the filter threw back in the pool, will slamming it fix it, ect.
No worries, we’ll have you turned into a great pool person in no time!!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
TFPC does not recommend flocculant. It might provide some instant gratification, if done properly, but usually results in long term pain, like you are seeing.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Also, it appears you have a cartridge filter. Flocculant will ruin your filters if circulated through them. Floc should only be vacuumed to waste and never put through a filter.
I suggest you try cleaning your cartridges. You may need to replace them.
I suggest you try cleaning your cartridges. You may need to replace them.
I didn't know I had a cartridge filter? Does sand filters also have a cartridge ? Also I vacuumed to waste. The pool guys told me not to backwash as often as I was, I was vacuuming everyday and back washing after, they told me not to so the filter could catch more debris. Ugh. Thanks so much for your help!!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No, I went by your signature. What you show is a cartridge filter. If you have a sand filter, then you need to change your signature.
Even with a sand filter, floc should only be vacuumed to waste. Floc circulated through the filter can make the sand clump together. A deep clean of the sand may be necessary.
It is true to not back wash too much. You should allow the filter pressure to rise by 25% over clean filter pressure prior to backwashing.
Even with a sand filter, floc should only be vacuumed to waste. Floc circulated through the filter can make the sand clump together. A deep clean of the sand may be necessary.
It is true to not back wash too much. You should allow the filter pressure to rise by 25% over clean filter pressure prior to backwashing.