Normal pressure 25psi with clean filters

Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
So, I've posted in the past regarding my base filter pressure, clean grids, is 25 psi. (original post here: Filter cleaning and soak)
Since then, my pump has been replaced with by home warranty (same appox THP) with used pump.
I have acid soaked my grids.
I have replaced the grids w new.

I still have a "normal" (PSI with clean grids - removed and cleaned, not back washed) at 25 PSI.
My pump is a 2.20 THP Jandy, need to update my sig, but thoughts on why 25 PSI. I've blown 3 grids which I think was due to dirty load and the pressure.
 

ajw22

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TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
16,367
Northern NJ
Post pics of your equipment pad showing all of your pipes and valves.

Do you have a heater bypass? A scaled up heat exchanger can narrow it's pipes and raise pressure.
 
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duraleigh

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Apr 1, 2007
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That's a pretty powerful pump. Are you using any 1.5" pipe after the filter? There is a restriction somewhere (as ajw22 states) and that is causing your high pressure. I would expect to see 14 gpm or so with that filter and pump.
 

ajw22

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TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
The numbers on your pics are nice but the pics don't give a view of all the pipes such that I can really follow the flow from suction through return.

There are no views of the heater and if you have a heater bypass.

What is 20? A check valve or a flow switch? For what purpose?

12 goes into the ground. What does 12 connect to?
 

Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
16/17 are the heater.

Filtered water exits manifold from 90* above 9 > 10 > 11 into the ground (does who knows what zigzag), out at 12 .. into heater at 16
Out heater at 17 through 1way valve (20) > into diverter after 26. Spa mode is 27, otherwise 28 to pool and spa.

Technically, 20 doesn't do Darn because the spa drains from 28 into pool 28.
 

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Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
I did NOT use the word darn.
Trust me, I want to re-plumb the pad. I have since added a pump to liquid Cl dispensing into (24).. and tapped in a booster pump for a polaris 280 at (22).
I have to close a valve in the booster line so the spa doesnt drain. This interferes with the no touch automation.
Both additions would be better served in line at 28.
 

wireform

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In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
1,216
Spring Valley, NY
If you want the help of the forum we'll need food for thought that is good pictures. The back and forth questions of what's this and that needs to be minimized. Take some good pictures starting from one side of the pad across the front to the other side sort of a panoramic picture broken up. Don't worry if there are too many.
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
1,569
Marrietta Ga
I did NOT use the word darn.
Trust me, I want to re-plumb the pad. I have since added a pump to liquid Cl dispensing into (24).. and tapped in a booster pump for a polaris 280 at (22).
I have to close a valve in the booster line so the spa doesnt drain. This interferes with the no touch automation.
Both additions would be better served in line at 28.
There are some weird angles in there :) Like 24,25 and 26..Why didn't they just go straight out, is there something I can't see?
 

Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
There are some weird angles in there :) Like 24,25 and 26..Why didn't they just go straight out, is there something I can't see?
Agree there. No, you're not missing something. There's several places that could be more direct (5 > 8, 9 > 16, 17 > 26). I think the builder's plumber billed by the foot and fitting.

Team, I think you all are looking for something that's not there, floor pressure cleaner, and the like. This pool is all kinds of funky. Let's focus on the normal 25PSI. It's not the grids (replaced), it's not the physical pump (it too was replaced and normal pressure is the same 25psi). Are we looking at a pump size problem, or a head pressure problem (HP rating with the pipe and 90* count)?

Let me clear the picture: you can see everything but (1 & 5-8) from the photo on the left.

Water flow through filter:
(01) Goes to pressure cleaner return / wall fitting @ 1"
(02) Spa feed: spa mode only, single floor drain) 2" at the ground
--Diverter valve Pool/spa mode (2 - spa | 3 pool normal position)
(03) Pool feed: pool mode - 3 skimmers. 1 skimmer has on/off valve. 1.5" at the ground
(04) pump inlet 2"
(05) pump return 2"
(06) Temp probe
(07) 2"
(08) Filter manifold supply is 1.5" @ inlet (so we transition 2" slip > 1.5" threaded)
--FILTER DE60-- = 25 PSI clean; with the glycerine gauge.
(09) Filter manifold "filter" mode to pool @ 1.5"
(10) 1.5" to heater -- seen in both pictures
(11) 1.5" red vertical rectangle box next to gate valve [gate valve is a separate system for fountains, you can see the pump behind 24 - does not run through filter)
--under ground--
(12) 1.5" @ ground > 2" 90* > 13 (from route 11)
(13 - 16) making way into heater via 2"
--400K BTU HEATER--
(17-19) 2" hot return
(20) 2" 1 way valve (worthless because spa water goes into pool via 28)
(21) 2"
(22) 2" now has a Tee - 2" x 1" to run to pressure line to (1) for Polaris 280 in the pool. (1" is in the middle pointing down toward ground, so most flow is through 2" to pool)
(23) 2"
(24) now another Tee - 2"x 3/4 for Cl injection (stenner)
(25) 2"
(26) 1.5" reduction to pool/spa diverter valve
--Diverter valve Pool/spa mode
(27) Spa mode - 2" return to spa only = spa wall jets
(28) Pool mode:
One leg of Tee is 1.5" to spa for filtration (continuous fill of filtered water into spa > into fountain > into pool. [Gallery]).
The other goes to the pool, ALL return ports also 1.5". again see [Gallery]
Side note: If the pump is off, this is where spa water drains into pool with spa drained about 18" over night. This is why 1 way valve (20) is basically worthless.
 
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markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
1,569
Marrietta Ga
Quick question..was it that high before he replaced the pump? If not do you have your old pump info?
Also can you feel good strong flow out all your returns in your pool?
 

Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
home warranty replaced the pump, so to answer the question clean pressure for me has always been 25 psi.

Specifically, when I moved in: Old grids, old pump: clean = 25 psi
New grids, same filter, Refurb pump, clean = 25 psi.
THP for both pumps I believe is 2.2.

Clean defined is R&R filters (not a backwash), amount of DE added per filter spec (filter sticker) = 7.5# added to closest skimmer (strongest suction) as a slurry. 1-2# of DE / 5 gal
Flow is strongest at jets closest to pad, those farthest (deep end) low pressure. So, I dont think theres any obstruction on the return side.
 
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markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
1,569
Marrietta Ga
If it's always been high and all the valves are flowing I am wondering if the filter is bad or not big enough for the pump.
I think you can definitely redo some stuff and help it

I have cartridge filters so don't know about the DE stuff, maybe one the the experts can help?
I had a 1.5 HP super pump and Mine would run 15 pds clean but with the VS and 1800 rpm I run it at 4 psi :)
 

ajw22

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TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
16,367
Northern NJ
I am wondering if the filter is bad or not big enough for the pump.
60 sq ft is the largest size DE filter Hayward or Pentair have.

I have a 60 SQ ft Pentair DE filter with a 1.5 HP SS pump that runs 18 psi clean and gets backwashed by 30 psi.

The 2 HP pump @Mycall9550 has plus all the bends is probably pushing his filter pressure up. A VS pump run slower will give lower PSI.

I think there is nothing wrong that needs to be fixed. This system can run fine at 25PSI clean and backwash with pressure in the low 30's. As I suggested in post #2 I would look carefully at the heater. With all the complexity in the plumbing I am suprised there is no heater bypass.
 

Mycall9550

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2017
206
Houston
t's not t
60 sq ft is the largest size DE filter Hayward or Pentair have.

I have a 60 SQ ft Pentair DE filter with a 1.5 HP SS pump that runs 18 psi clean and gets backwashed by 30 psi.

The 2 HP pump @Mycall9550 has plus all the bends is probably pushing his filter pressure up. A VS pump run slower will give lower PSI.

I think there is nothing wrong that needs to be fixed. This system can run fine at 25PSI clean and backwash with pressure in the low 30's. As I suggested in post #2 I would look carefully at the heater. With all the complexity in the plumbing I am suprised there is no heater bypass.
Okay, so I see most on the forum run in the mid-teens so I'm just checking if the pump size is off. If it's a pump size, Id go down to a 1.5 HP. I'd love a vsp, but it's too costly.
As far as the bypass, there may have been one at some time but with the staining on the plaster I expect not.
The current heater is a Pentair 400K BTU (replaced just before we bought the house, so it's less than 5years), and it looks like it is a built in bypass:
 
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