I assume by the numbers that it's a K-2006 or Leslie equal. Oops, never mind, I see it in your sig.
Your numbers don't look too bad.
Your CYA is too high for a non-SWGC pool. You need to work on getting that down and swap to some chlorinating source that doesn't add CYA.
The .8 CC bothers me a little. I'd jack the FC up a little and see if it'd go away.
Welcome You are on your way to taking control of your pool.
First off, I recommend switching to the 10ml (0.5ppm per drop) version of the Chlorine test versus the 25ml (0.2ppm per drop). You really only need that level of accuracy and you will save your reagents.
The Acid Demand and Base Demand tests aren't necessary if you are going to use Jason's pool calculator. I have the K-2006 also, and I took them right out of the box (to make room for my magnetic stirrer).
Your CYA is a little high, but manageable. Just make sure you use the target and shock levels based on either Jason's pool calculator or the CYA/Chlorine chart.
Alternately you could do a partial drain and fill to get the CYA down to ~50.
If your CC number is correct you could probably stand to shock. Remember that shocking is a process and not a product. Read "How to Shock" in pool school if you haven't already.
Your pH will probably drift up, so I wouldn't touch that right now. It is better to shock at a low pH anyway.
Your TA and PH are both fine where they are. If, in the future, you do need to change both PH and TA, you change one of them first, then measure the other and change it as needed at that point.
Calcium chloride can be found as an ice melter in some areas in the winter, but is fairly hard to get a hold of during the summer or in places where there is never any need for melting ice. As a result, you will often end up having to get it from a pool store. They will sell something like "Calcium Increaser" and you then need to look on the packaging to find out if it is calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate.