I noticed my chlorine level is low so I looked at the panel on my Aqua Rite Salt Water Chlorine Generator and the power was off, which I have never seen. I turned the breaker off and on again, and the power came back on - for a few seconds, then turned off again. I tried it a 2nd time and the same thing happened. The pool pump is on and everything seems to be operating normally except for the Salt Water Chlorine Generator. I looked at the cell and it's clean. I'm not sure if I need an electrician or a pool equipment repair person, or what to try. Until it's fixed I can manually add chlorine - I have shock now.
No power to Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator
- Thread starter BB_Sacramento
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,450
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have a problem with the control board.
Post the diagnostic information.
If you are handy then lots of repair information is in Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Post the diagnostic information.
If you are handy then lots of repair information is in Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Pop that panel off by removing the two screws.. then take a good pic of the board and electronics inside. We'll see what we can see.
edit: I was just going to call you Allen and James in!
edit: I was just going to call you Allen and James in!
Since you still have the display, the problem is probably a bad thermistor.
Move the switch to off and check the voltage. It should be 30 to 32 and steady.
Move the switch to Auto and recheck the voltage. It should be between 24 and 28 and steady.
If the voltage is below these readings or fluctuating, it's probably a bad thermistor.
www.digikey.com
Move the switch to off and check the voltage. It should be 30 to 32 and steady.
Move the switch to Auto and recheck the voltage. It should be between 24 and 28 and steady.
If the voltage is below these readings or fluctuating, it's probably a bad thermistor.
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I was going to open the panel and take pictures but when I opened the door the lights were on but the pump was not on so I turned the pump on and the salt chlorinator stayed on....So my question now is - when this happens, could it still be the thermistor? Could it work intermittently, or could it be another electrical issue or ? When it was working I didn't want to open it up, but I still can if needed. This probably makes no difference but it was about 102 here today when I noticed the power wasn't working and it's cooled off now - heat probably has nothing to do with it?
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mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Hmm. the SWG should not be on if the pump is not running. I think we need to know more about how your setup is wired. Send us some pics of your whole controller layout. and the inside of the box.
BTW howdy from the other side of Sactown
BTW howdy from the other side of Sactown
I think that you have two issues.
The first is that you need to have a timer on the SWG and set so that the SWG is scheduled to turn off when the pump is scheduled to turn off.
Your flow switch is turning the SWG off when the pump is off, but if the flow switch fails, the cell could explode.
The second is that the thermistor is probably bad.
Can you check the voltage as described above?
The first is that you need to have a timer on the SWG and set so that the SWG is scheduled to turn off when the pump is scheduled to turn off.
Your flow switch is turning the SWG off when the pump is off, but if the flow switch fails, the cell could explode.
The second is that the thermistor is probably bad.
Can you check the voltage as described above?
Thanks everyone!! I appreciate the information and feedback, and howdy to mguzzy in Sactown. I've had this pool about 17 years since it was built and the salt water chlorinator has always been on when the pump is on. There has never been a separate timer. If the pump is on, the SWG is on. So last evening the pump was off and the SWG power light was on, as is normal for it, then I turned the pump on and it had power and was generating chlorine. Then I turned the pump off wondering why it was not working earlier. This morning when the pump turned on as scheduled I looked at the panel and again no power light on, not generating chlorine. So the power issue is intermittent. Lastly, I can't check the voltage, I don't own a device that does that. I have an electrician scheduled to come Monday, but I don't know if that's overkill or necessary or if I need a pool repair person or ?? Should I ask the electrician to check the voltage with the switch on "off" and "auto"? The diagnostic information - do you mean what is displayed on the Aqua Rite display in black? I don't know what these are, but the display is: 3.50, 27, 6.6 (increases), 0.0, 43 p, -0.00, AL-0, r 1.4
I am able to insert images now but it inserts twice - sorry! And I don't think you need to see the breaker but I included it just in case! Thanks again!
.
I am able to insert images now but it inserts twice - sorry! And I don't think you need to see the breaker but I included it just in case! Thanks again!
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Last edited:
There is a problem now with uploading images - I'll try again later. I have images of my panel.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
By the way, you don't need an electrician to get the voltage readings that James is asking for, follow his advice and he will get the voltage readings from the numbers you post.
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:
www.troublefreepool.com
Your settings got switched to metric, which can happen if the display board is not making good contact with the pins from the main circuit board.
The salt is in grams per liter and the temperature is in Celsius. You can switch them back by going to temperature and moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto. 27 Celcius should change to 81 Fahrenheit.
You can reset the display board to improve the connection. You have to remove the display board anyway to replace the thermistor.
The low voltage points to a bad thermistor. You can replace it as shown in the first video posted earlier.
Here are some more helpful videos.
If you want to replace the circuit board, the part number is GLX-PCB-RITE, but it's cheaper to buy the thermistor and replace it if you can solder or know someone who can.
- Default salt display
- Pool temp
- Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
- Cell current
- Desired output (% of the knob)
- Instant salinity
- Product name
- Software revision (r.XX)
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Your settings got switched to metric, which can happen if the display board is not making good contact with the pins from the main circuit board.
The salt is in grams per liter and the temperature is in Celsius. You can switch them back by going to temperature and moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto. 27 Celcius should change to 81 Fahrenheit.
You can reset the display board to improve the connection. You have to remove the display board anyway to replace the thermistor.
The low voltage points to a bad thermistor. You can replace it as shown in the first video posted earlier.
Here are some more helpful videos.
If you want to replace the circuit board, the part number is GLX-PCB-RITE, but it's cheaper to buy the thermistor and replace it if you can solder or know someone who can.
THANK YOU!! I had my water tested at a pool store a week ago and they said the salt was 3600 and my reading now says 3500. I always keep it at about 3000 - I have never seen it this high - I might have added too much salt a month or so ago. Today the power is on and when I set it to auto it stays on and the green light for "generating" is on - just for a few seconds then the lights go out (no power).
The serial number is 3A0802-1002165
The diagnostics are, when OFF, 3500, 74, 5.1 (climbing), 0, 42p, -0, AL-0, r1.40. When switched to AUTO, readings are exactly the same except the 5.1 is now 11.8 and climbing. After setting it back to OFF for a minute, the settings are exactly the same except the 11.8 climbed to 16.3 - so the cell voltage is changing whether it's on AUTO or OFF.
The serial number is 3A0802-1002165
The diagnostics are, when OFF, 3500, 74, 5.1 (climbing), 0, 42p, -0, AL-0, r1.40. When switched to AUTO, readings are exactly the same except the 5.1 is now 11.8 and climbing. After setting it back to OFF for a minute, the settings are exactly the same except the 11.8 climbed to 16.3 - so the cell voltage is changing whether it's on AUTO or OFF.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Try the binder clip hack.. it is not a fix its a temporary patch, but I find it helps confirm that it is the Thermister
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Its in the diagnostics section, you'll find it in there.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Its in the diagnostics section, you'll find it in there.
I placed binder clip on the thermister and the power still does not come on. Maybe I should replace the whole board? The video makes it look easy to replace.
All you need is the thermistor if you can solder.
You can replace the circuit board if you would rather do that.
You can replace the circuit board if you would rather do that.
Thanks so much I really appreciate all the help. I'll update this thread after it's fixed!
