No flow on Aquarite even after new flow sensor?

Jana616

Member
Jul 21, 2019
23
Indiana
Hello! We have a Hayward Aquarite for a 28k gallon in ground pool. When we started it up for the season, it had a solid “no flow” light. We tested with a screwdriver and the no flow light did flash then, so we thought it was the flow sensor. We ordered and replaced the flow sensor (hex head from cell to phone jack connected to board/housing). After replacing, nothing has changed, still solid no flow light. We did rotate the sensor in the pool piping to make sure our flow direction was right. What should be our next step? Thanks!!
 
Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
36,804
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The flow switch connector can corrode. It is an RJ11 Conn Jack, 6P/6C, RA Unshielded, part# 5555165-1, Digi-Key A31422-ND.[48]

The flow switch light will blink for about 30 seconds from the time it detects a closed flow switch and then the light should go out.

If the light is on steady, then it thinks that the flow switch is open.

You can use an old phone plug with the wires twisted together to simulate a closed flow switch. Test only. Do not leave it like that.

Hayward_Aquarite_GLX-PCB-XXXX_RJ11_PinOut.jpg
 
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Jana616

Member
Jul 21, 2019
23
Indiana
The flow switch connector can corrode. It is an RJ11 Conn Jack, 6P/6C, RA Unshielded, part# 5555165-1, Digi-Key A31422-ND.[48]

The flow switch light will blink for about 30 seconds from the time it detects a closed flow switch and then the light should go out.

If the light is on steady, then it thinks that the flow switch is open.

You can use an old phone plug with the wires twisted together to simulate a closed flow switch. Test only. Do not leave it like that.

Hayward_Aquarite_GLX-PCB-XXXX_RJ11_PinOut.jpg
Thank you so much for the reply! Is that basically testing like we did with a screwdriver? When we put that in, it did blink for a while, which is why we thought it was the flow switch and not the board. We can try it with a phone plug (not sure we can find one!) if that will give us more info.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
36,804
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Did you hold the screwdriver closing the contacts until yous aw the light go out?

Examine the contacts in the jack closely and make sure they are not bent and would make contact with the plug. Otherwise the screwdriver trick may work but the plug is not making contact with the wires in the jack.
 

Kallen3

New member
May 15, 2022
2
Florida
I tried the screwdriver trick. It tripped the light off and started generating, which is why I thought the switch. My switch was actually cut as well, so I thought for sure that was the problem. I replaced the switch- it didn’t work, thought maybe I got a bad one so I swapped it and still having same issue. I read where someone used CLR in the jack, is that safe to do? Also, I noticed when I removed the original cable from the jack, the head of it has some discoloration on the clear plastic, almost orange looking. Would that indicate anything?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
36,804
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hard to say without seeing it what may be going on between the plug and jack.

You can use the continuity testing with a multimeter to test the connections.
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
36,804
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Ours blinks and then goes to generating when testing. But does not do anything more than steady no flow with the new flow switch in.

You need to check the contacts between the plug and the jack using a multimeter.
 

Shiela01

New member
Jun 20, 2022
4
Michigan
Ours blinks and then goes to generating when testing. But does not do anything more than steady no flow with the new flow switch in.
Hello,
I was having same problem and searched and came across a conversation thread from 2010 on this forum/site. It seems many people have the same problem (no flow light constant and it is not related to a bad flow switch or any other reason they could find when troubleshooting)- and it is the "thermistor" (a little round black part) on the main computer board that is very cheap and not hard to replace and resolder. It is much cheaper to do this than to replace the entire board.
I could not get the part I wanted from digikey but did find on Amazon for cheap and quick delivery.
I can give link if you want for the part and also for a you tube video on how to remove the PCB and another video to show you how to replace / resolder the thermistor.
For now, attached is a picture of the start of the thread from this forum in 2010. You'll have to search for the thread as i could not attach a link.
Read through it- was very helpful to me- was so thankful to have stumbled on it.
 

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Shiela01

New member
Jun 20, 2022
4
Michigan

Here is the link to the thread from this forum/site in 2010 that was very helpful about the thermistor. Hope it opens for you.