No drain water exchange help

catsncoffee

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2020
46
Phoenix, AZ
I'm currently in the middle of a no drain water exchange, but my subpump is pushing out water a lot faster than my hose is filling. Subpump rate is 20 gal a minute fill rate with my hose is only 6gal minute. I don't want my water level to get too low because it's going to be nearly 100 degrees tomorrow in AZ and I'm concerned about the plaster. Should i let it drain down a few inches then turn it off until the hose can catch up? How do i figure out how long i need to run this to exchange enough water to lower my CH?
 
Did you measure your fill rate with a 5 gallon bucket before starting?

If you need to turn off he sump pump for a few hours to let the hose catch up, no issue.
 
Yes did the 5gal bucket fill with the hose and with the water coming out the pool via the sub pump. Hose fill is pretty slow. Ok thanks i will just shut it off when it gets too low and let the hose catch up. How do i calculate how long i need to run this water exchange for?
 
How many gallons do you want to exchange? Use the bucket rate and determine how long to run the pump to remove the amount of water you need to .
 
In Phoenix your fill water should be around 250 ppm. If your current pool CH is 1000 ppm, you need a full drain. Doing the exchange, it is not as efficient as a drain. So you will need to go to 16000 gallons or so.
 
If you were using water with 0 ppm CH, to dilute from 1,000 ppm to 650 ppm (the maximum acceptable) You would have to drain 4,900 gallons and refill with fresh water. With a refill of 400 ppm CH, you have to replace 9,000 gallons of your current pool water. this will achieve a CH of 615 ppm.
M1V1+M2V2=M3V3 Solve for M3
(1000 ppm)(5000 gal) + (400 ppm)(9,000 gal) = M3(14,000 gal)
(5,000,000 ppm-gal + 3,600,000 ppm-gal)/14,000 gal = M3
8,600,000 ppm-gal / 14,000 gal = M3 = 613.3 ppm

After Marty's comment, if your CH is 250, that changes the math. I come up with a final CH of 518 ppm for the same volume exchange, if you want a lower CH you have to change out more water.
Also doing a no drain water exchange your change in concentration won't be that precise due to mixing
 
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Thanks! I'm in the Phoenix area but under a different water company that most of metro phoenix, so i dont know, my fill water seems higher. My PPM meter is reading 400 and the last time i drained and refilled it was at 400 when i tested CH after the fill. 615 will get us by. I am looking for a company to come do an RO exchange but having a hard time locating one that isn't charging over 1k.
 
What's the cost of your water? That 615 ppm calculation is a drain/refill. If your water cost for approximately 10,000 plus gallons of water is lower than 1K, an RO changeout might be cheaper. Or look into buying an RO setup and DIY?
 
Looking at this Old Thread and specifically this quote from Joyful Noise in Tucson pretty much sums it up: Drain, refill, top off with water from a softener.
The cheapest way to deal with the buildup of chemicals in water in most areas is to simply drain and refill. I know no one likes to see thousands of gallons of water go down the drain, and it can be inconvenient if you are on a well, but it is almost always cheaper to drain and refill.

Draining and refilling my 16k gallon pool would cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $250-$300 (using municipal water and having to pay for the sewerage fee even though I would drain it out onto my property). RO in my area costs at least $300 to perform and will still require me to supply both the electrical energy to run the pumps and additional make-up water to replace the waste fraction that RO generates. That would cost me at least another $100 dollars in water. Even with all that, the RO process would only get me to about 250ppm CH and it would take 3 to 4 days for the RO process to be completed. I can drain and refill my pool in about 2 days.

Unfortunately, there really is not any small scale filtration technique that will work for residential pools. Once a pool is refilled with fresh water that's low in CH and CYA, then the best approach is one of prevention - don't use stabilized chlorine products and, if possible, use only water from a softener to refill a pool.
 
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It adds about an extra $90 to our water bill when we do a full drain and refill.
So that looks like a no brainer to me, Drain, refill adjust chemicals. Also as Marty says, use the Taylor kit. Way better (also read the test right, learn from my mistake)
 
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