No chlorine after adding an entire gallon yesterday?? Help please

Texassaltpool

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Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
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Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Brand new pool owner. Will be a SWG after initial 30 days allowing plaster to cure but for now using liquid chlorine and we can’t seem to get it balanced.
We are adding muriatic acid a few times a week to keep PH down (ready this was normal initially) and using liquid chlorine 12.5% I added an entire gallon yesterday to raise 2ppm and overnight all the chlorine is gone. Also added conditioner to raise chairs yesterday. Here are my test results as of this morning. What do I do? Where is the chlorine going? Thanks for any and all suggestions.
 

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Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I posting the test results from our AccuBlue machine but I also did manual testing and the chlorine and ph both match these readings. I don’t know how to test for calcium hardness myself of what that is.
 

Texas Splash

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Chorine goes to one of two places - the sun or algae. Since you just added conditioner it's possible there wasn't enough CYA to protect it. I would continue to increase the FC to about 5-7 ppm and try to maintain it there. Don't rely on the store testing, it's always flawed. You need your own TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit to be sure. That's a must. Then keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Chart.
 

Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Chorine goes to one of two places - the sun or algae. Since you just added conditioner it's possible there wasn't enough CYA to protect it. I would continue to increase the FC to about 5-7 ppm and try to maintain it there. Don't rely on the store testing, it's always flawed. You need your own TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit to be sure. That's a must. Then keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Chart.
Ok I will order that kit ASAP. In the meantime my ph is a little high at 8.1 so do I add the acid first then add chromosome four hours later? Or start with chlorine? I’m not using a in store test but it’s a similar device that does it at home. It is suggesting I also add something to bring up the calcium hardness? Calcium plus? Is that needed? Thank you!
 

Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Also this is the test kit I have is it not the same as the one you suggested? Sorry I’m brand new to this. Thanks
 

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Texas Splash

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I also add something to bring up the calcium hardness? Calcium plus? Is that needed?
Your CH is a little low. I would get it to at least 250. The TF-100 link is in my signature. It's really the better value. If you can swing the speedstir, I would get that as well.
 

Texas Splash

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Your Poolmaster kit probably only goes to about 5 ppm of FC, but do the best you can to keep the FC nice and strong at that level. No lower than 3 for sure.
 

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Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Chorine goes to one of two places - the sun or algae. Since you just added conditioner it's possible there wasn't enough CYA to protect it. I would continue to increase the FC to about 5-7 ppm and try to maintain it there. Don't rely on the store testing, it's always flawed. You need your own TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit to be sure. That's a must. Then keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Chart.
Ok thank you so much j will order that kit for sure. So based on my pool math I’m trying to raise my Chlorine from .6 to around 7ppm, I would need to add about 100oz of liquid. Would you just add the whole jug (128 Oz) at this point or can I overdo it? Also how can I know if algae is a problem or will the chlorine just handle it?
 

Texas Splash

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Would you just add the whole jug (128 Oz) at this point or can I overdo it?
I would. It will be fine. Pour slowly near the return jets with good circulation (high speed). Probably should test the FC again later this afternoon to make sure it didn't drop to zero. When you get a recommended test kit, we'll show you how to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test accurately to confirm is algae might be an issue. In a new pool, you can't treat for algae anyways by having a high FC level (for 30 days), so let's hope it's just an isolated FC drop due to testing and/or low CYA.
 

Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I would. It will be fine. Pour slowly near the return jets with good circulation (high speed). Probably should test the FC again later this afternoon to make sure it didn't drop to zero. When you get a recommended test kit, we'll show you how to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test accurately to confirm is algae might be an issue. In a new pool, you can't treat for algae anyways by having a high FC level (for 30 days), so let's hope it's just an isolated FC drop due to testing and/or low CYA.
Okay will do! Thank you so much. We are almost at our 30 day mark. Then we convert to salt so I’m sure I will have more questions but for Now will focus on raising chlorine and add the calcium plus to raise that as well. Thanks again!!!
 
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Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
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Jun 22, 2014
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Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
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SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just confirming this is the kit? This one has the speedster and I can get it asap
It is a recommended kit. The only problem is it appears to be the K-2006 and not the K-2006C. The "C" has larger reagent bottles to last longer. That is also why the TF-100 is usually a better buy. But go with what works for you.
 

mknauss

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That is the small kit. You will need refills for R0870 and R0871 plus R0013 nearly immediately.
 

Texassaltpool

Active member
Dec 29, 2020
29
Leander, TX
Pool Size
15787
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
It is a recommended kit. The only problem is it appears to be the K-2006 and not the K-2006C. The "C" has larger reagent bottles to last longer. That is also why the TF-100 is usually a better buy. But go with what works for you.
Oh ok! Make sense. Last question. I’ll go with the tf-100 but I noticed they had a lot for salt pools. Since we are converting next week to salt would I need that one instead or just stay with the original. Thanks!
 
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