Nitrates in pool, told to drain

Aug 24, 2014
1
Auburn, CA
16k, IG, plaster, Jandy Cl580 filter, Sta-Rite Intellipro var pump, 2007, HD 5 test kit, polarise cleaner

Yesterdays test results
FC 0
CH 300
CYA 100
TA 80
PH 7
Base 3
TDS 1000
pho 200

Raised PH to 7.2
shocked with 73% Calcium Hypochlorite (2) lbs bags yesterday. This more had some chlorine 1, added another half bag this afternoon.
Water looks pretty good, just hate to drain it all w/the drought. Do I really need to? First time pool owner.
 
:flower:

Welcome Mary!

Before we talk drain and refill, I believe you need to do some reading - that way, you understand how your pool chemistry works and why you would need a drain/refill.

TFP methods teach you what your water is made of and how those things interact. So you begin in :lookhere: Pool School! Below "Getting Started" is a section called "Pool School Index" with a wealth of information! You should begin with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Learn about CYA and it's relationship to chlorine levels. It's a plethora of knowledge and quite overwhelming in the beginning. Read it. Then read it again. I promise it begins to make sense.

Those testing results look very much like pool store results. You will find by reading here that pool store results are notoriously inaccurate. The same with test strips - useless. A good test kit is a wise investment for you! :lookhere: Test Kits Compared - the best way to know your results are accurate are to do them yourself. Test Kits Compared will show you the different types as well as roughly how many tests they can perform. I personally recommend the TF-100.

This may not mean much until you understand the CYA/Chlorine relationship but this is the test most often ill performed by pool stores. You have a result of 100 - it may very well be much, much higher. CYA does not go away except by way of drain and refill.

So do some reading and please come back to this thread when/if you have questions and I'm sure there are plenty of folks willing to help get you a clean, clear and well sanitized pool!

:wave:

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and if you would be so kind, please update your signature to include your pool and equipment specifics. It will help everyone to answer more questions without having to search for that information each time. Thanks so much!
 
Welcome to the forum Mary :wave:

Please add you pool info to your signature as outlined here :lookhere: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started

For now the reading would be a very good thing for you to do as would not adding anything from the pool store. It's much easier to not put it in than fix it after it's already in there.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/113-pool-chemistry & http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/139-recommended-pool-chemicals

The thing about nitrates is the only way I know of removing them is through reverse osmosis. If you are filling your pool from a well the nitrates are a contaminant in the well water and draining the pool and refilling it isn't going to cure anything unless you fill from another source void of nitrates. If you're drinking from that well you should stop if that pool stores water test is accurate. What level did they say your pool was at ??
 
I'm probably missing something obvious, but which of the numbers you posted relates to nitrates ? Guessing it has to be the phosphates number but IIRC 200 isn't all that high...

CYA definitely seems high and I don't know what the "Base" measurement refers to.
 
I don't think any of them do. Nitrates are measured in mg/L or ppm. The maximum contaminant level goal (MCLG) for nitrate is 10 mg/L or 10 ppm

I'm surprised they would test for it as there really isn't much you can realistically do to cure it for a pool. In a house they can put in a RO unit in the kitchen and then use that water for brushing teeth but your shower or bath wouldn't be filtered unless you opted for a much more expensive whole house unit.

The good news is nitrates are not absorbed through the skin so as long as you aren't drinking the pool water you're good :safe:

With the CYA being at 100 it could be higher and you should have a dilution test done to make sure it's not over 100. The test itself only goes to 100 so if you had a CYA level of 350ppm it would still show up as 100. You do the CYA test using a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water (instead of all pool water) and then doubling the test result to get a better idea of the actual CYA level to determine how much water needs to be replaced to lower the CYA to an appropriate level.
The CYA is a reason to drain off water to get that number down to something more reasonable. And even in a drought it's worth draining down and refilling to maintain a clean and sanitary pool without going broke buying bleach due to excessive CYA level.
 
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