*newbie* cloudy/green water

[Pool Amateur]

Thanks Ron, good thoughts, if we do not restrict flow to increase circulation, then my next best circulator is swimming, after that I guess brushing but I like swimming way more than brushing. LOL

I am thinking Slimebags may not do much more than present filter as my thought is the problem is more the volume going through the pump, rather than the filtration itself. You can make DIY Slimebags as in this thread and also in this thread. They can be purchased for $16. 74 with shipping and then make your own adapter as in the 1st thread or buy a 1.5" male thread to Barb adapter. All totaled about $20-$25 for 2 that will last a long time, this is my second year I bought 2 from slimebag co. and still have not worn out the first, I use now once a week to Polish my water I do not use DE in my sand filter. Since as you can see I think slimebags are a useful tool I believe in this case they would just verify that the filter is working properly by not catching anything. I think it is a volume thing rather than the filter not filtering fine enough or a hole in the filter or some other problem with the filter. Ron do you know to what micron the typical intex cartridge filters to slimebags in post are 1 micron but you can get them in various filtering sizes. The .5 microns are non cleanable that is why I went with a 1 micron.

 

[RonsPlc]

I can say that when I was using the old type B Intex filter, I was not impressed with it. I know my sand filter catches more than the Intex cartridge did... which puts it at bigger than 3 microns (I think).
I remember looking to see if there was a tear, or hole in my filter more than once because it seemed to be letting a lot pass through.
I DID at one point wrap the outside of my filter cartridge with a bit of polyfill that I took from an old pillow, and it helped a lot!

Come to think of it... there is an aftermarket cartridge maker that has a better quality filter that works in the Intex casings... I will try to find the thread that mentions them.

 

[RonsPlc]

Never buy INTEX type A filter again

 

[PoolD]

The return has a 1" eyeball however after sticking that pvc pipe in there I would say the hole is about 3/4" and points down and to the right. Would this be an acceptable replacement:

I'm going to try the slime bags too - it can't hurt for this season. Seems easy enough to put together. I like that pillow polyfill idea and Ronplc thank for the link to that thread about the filters! I'm definitely getting those!

The water looks clear just not "crystal" clear like in the pic from the 4th of July - which is what I want.

I think it sounds like I may need to upgrade my filter pump altogether. Wasn't planning on getting one til next season only because I've already spent so much money to get to this point. Would this be a good one?
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Krystal-Filter-16-inch-110-120V/dp/B00GSPHS7E/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=dp_ob_neva_mobile&tag=tapainc-20

Unfortunately not pool weather today, hopefully tomorrow. Need some circulation in there!

 

[Pool Amateur]

Fantastic info, If by wrapping the filter in poly fiber it filtered out more, then maybe slimebags would help.
I have seen the poly-fiber as an inexpensive test for trapping iron and believe slimebag would be much easier and economical in the long run.

The number I have seen for sand filters is 30 microns. I collect a lot of crud in them, I was very surprised how well they work and it takes about 2 min to put on and off, cleaning 15 min (bummer). Most on TFP subscribe to a little DE in the filter to fine polish the water, I just was never a fan of DE and prefer not to deal with it.

 

[RonsPlc]

I still use that return eyeball on my pool.

 

[Pool Amateur]

PoolID, I like your elbow better than adjustable pool INLET cover, I think it would be for an inlet not the return which is an outlet. Are the treads inside your return 1" or 1.5"? I know standard on most pools are 1.5", but Intex could be smaller.If you do not know maybe Ron knows. PoolID you are getting a good education, and yes I think you can get through this year with this one and good idea on doing a lot of research before buying a new one. As long as you follow TFP method and do not have to SLAM again.

- - - Updated - - -

Im sorry Ron, what return eyeball do you use?

 

[RonsPlc]

I have modified my pool to the point that I almost forget where the Intex parts end, and the regular pool parts begin! ... ALMOST!

- - - Updated - - -

Intex calls the return the "Inlet" for some reason... they think the term inlet means into the pool.
That is the return eyeball for Intex

- - - Updated - - -

Intex fittings are actually a metric sizing... not the standard sizes we are used to here in North America.

 

[Pool Amateur]

Thanks Ron, I do see the logic, but my reference was to pump but I am new to the swimming pool world so maybe that is standard nomenclature. I still would prefer the elbow. But something to be said for a part that was original design. I think getting the water to all flow one direction (Clockwise or counterclockwise) would be beneficial to circulation and I like the downward flow for some turbidity to mix the top and bottom as well. But I may be wrong. Since Intex is metric you would need an adapter for circulator but I believe that would be a restrictor as well. The elbow you have is probably my choice still.

 

[RonsPlc]

Whenever I don't have Zippy in the pool (My Intex automatic pool cleaner), I run my eyeball so it points down, and away from the skimmer. Which sets up a clockwise current in the pool.

 

[RonsPlc]

Just so you can get an idea of what "Heavily Modified" means in my signature... A picture of my pool taken about 1/2hr ago.
That is the same water from last year. (I have not had to put the hose into it at all this year due to rain doing it for me.)

 

[Pool Amateur]

Hi Ron,
Not to hijack the thread but nice set-up, How is the Stenner pump doing, did you install yourself, I am planning an upgrade and torn between SWG and Stenner, and just when I eliminate the liquidator I read something good about that. I read about 1 person getting a Stenner online for $200 bucks, that is darn good price and leaning that way, but SWG still seems the least work. I have been doing adding liquid chlorine manually when home and when I go away I use the chlorinator and then adjust to new CYA or replace water. What are your pro's and cons on 2 speed vs variable speed on pump. If we take this for more than a post or 2 we can start new thread, sorry PoolID for the little hijack.

- - - Updated - - -

Also what is the pvc pipe for that is banded to the pool support at the far right of the picture

 

[RonsPlc]

Hi Ron,
Not to hijack the thread but nice set-up, How is the Stenner pump doing, did you install yourself, I am planning an upgrade and torn between SWG and Stenner, and just when I eliminate the liquidator I read something good about that. I read about 1 person getting a Stenner online for $200 bucks, that is darn good price and leaning that way, but SWG still seems the least work. I have been doing adding liquid chlorine manually when home and when I go away I use the chlorinator and then adjust to new CYA or replace water. What are your pro's and cons on 2 speed vs variable speed on pump. If we take this for more than a post or 2 we can start new thread, sorry PoolID for the little hijack.

- - - Updated - - -

Also what is the pvc pipe for that is banded to the pool support at the far right of the picture

I opened another thread... My set up ... so far

 

[Catanzaro]

Pool Amateur:

If you go with an SWG, look at this thread. It is highly recommended you install one of these at the pump. I am in the process of adding a salt system, heat pump, chlorinator (all at the same time). Possibly gas, but this week I will make a decision. During the plumbing, I may add another one of these to the plumbing. Has to be a ground wire attached to the plumbing so another zinc anode can be buried in the ground. I am really concerned about corrosion in the pool, even with the existing one.

Sequence of chemicals and possibly any effects on what happened to screws at light.

 

[PoolD]

OCLT
830p FC 20.5; CC 0
900p FC 25.5; CC 0.5
600a FC 25; CC 0

A tiny smidge hazy. Not "crystal" clear but I'll take it!

Is it ok to let the FC drop now?

 

[Pool Amateur]

I note that your 9:00 pm test showed 25.5, that was a half hour after the addition, did you test at 9:30 or later and get the same result? If so did anything change to help increase the circulation? Correct me if I am wrong but Thurs and Friday, you tested half hour after your nightly addition and in am FC went up in am. The only way I see that as a possibility is if the chlorine was not thoroughly mixed up or error on testing. The 1st night I was willing to chalk it up to error, the second not so much especially when you were able to accurately repeat your am test 3 times. Then Sat we tested an hour after (in hind sight I should have had you test at the 30 min the 60 min on Sat) and no increase the next AM. So I am trying to be sure what is happening, so we catch it now rather than have problems down the line.

 

[PoolD]

I didn't do another test at 930p last night. I just went with a standard OCLT from Pool School. We haven't changed anything to help the circulation - no one even went swimming. Should I continue to keep the levels up to SLAM level?

July 13 – Thu
630p
FC 21
CC 0.5
CH 100
TA 110 -- turned peach color not red
CYA 60
PH 7.3
10pm
FC 23

July 14 - Fri
7am
FC 25
1PM
FC 28
6pm
FC 21
CC 0.5
CYA 55
TA 110
CH 100
PH 7.3

1012p
FC 21

1047p
FC 25.5

July 15 - Sat
5:30a
FC 27 << tested three times!
CC 0.5
Sadly, no clear water
830pm
FC 17
930pm
FC 25.5

July 16 - Sun
515am
FC 25.5
CC 0
no sediment that I can see on the bottom
830p
FC 20.5
CC 0
900p
FC 25.5
CC 0.5

July 17 - Mon
600a
FC 25
CC 0
A tiny smidge hazy. Not "crystal" clear

 

[Catanzaro]

Pool D:

Allow your levels to drift back down under 10 ppm. Check PH as well. Do not add anything during the evening, test at around 10 p.m. and then early morning the next day to ensure that you have passed the OCLT.

 

[Pool Amateur]

I like Catanzaro's idea above

What I am concerned about is last night at 9:00 the chlorine may not mixed sufficiently and by 9:30 or 10:00 last night it may have gone to 27, then this am 25, that would not be a passing test.

 

[Catanzaro]

Also, at higher levels, there is a high probability of testing error, which could lead to more time. Read this, very interesting. Because it was Chem-Geek's material, you can be rest assured this is extremely reliable information.

Overnight Testing Error:

Numbers ok but water has a hint of cloudiness - Page 6

Post # 114