New variable speed pump installed - problems

dooger54

Gold Supporter
Apr 21, 2017
136
Tucson AZ
I just installed a new Hayward Ecostar 3400VSP pump. All went fine except now I have a timer on/off issue. Prior to this i had a single speed pump which was turned on/off using an Intermatic timer. This was set up by the pool builder so the pump, SWG, and heater were all turned on by this timer. Now that my new pump has the timers built into it, I need to set those up and use them. So I have the Intermatic timer "off"(on/off tabs taken off) so that the pump is getting power 24 hours a day. Problem with that is now the heater and SWG are powered on 24 hours day. The Hayward heater now runs all the time, (heater isnt on but the blower motor runs), and the SWG is on, but since it doesn't have any water flow it generates an error. I need to figure out how to run the pump using the internal timer, but have the heater and SWG on only when the pump is running. How will I accomplish that?
 
D,

Instead of taking off the "tabs" you should have left the heater and SWCG running off the timer and wired the pump for constant 220 volts.

This is the main downside with using a VS pump, but that is quickly overridden by the advantages..

You can just move the pump wires form the load side of the timer to the input side..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
The cheap way is to wire your pump to the line side of the Intermatic timer. This will make sure the pump always has power. Then use the intermatic timer to control the on/off of your heater and SWG. Synchronize the pump's timer with the Intermatic so that the heater and SWG are only on when the pump is running.

The expensive way is to add an automation system that controls all of this.
 
Looks like Intermatic has some digital versions, but I'm not familiar enough with them to make a recommendation.

Regarding the pool heater, you could definitely use a switch in place of the timer. However, couldn't you just supply power to the heater all the time and use the on/off switch on the heater (assuming your heater has an on/off switch)?

The benefit to leaving your heater wired to the Intermatic timer would be to prevent it from accidentally being on when the pump is off. The heater should have a pressure switch that will prevent this from happening, but the timer would be extra insurance.

If it were me, I would keep it wired to the Intermatic timer, but have the switch on the heater turned off except when you want your heater on. This would give you that added layer of protection for your heater.
 
What I don't understand is why the heater blower is running when the pump is not operating. Anything below 1275 rpm the heater blower kicks on. My heater is on standby. Seems logical to me that if there is no or little water flowing the heater blower should not be on. What gives?
 
I don't have any insight to why your heater blower is running. Regarding the wiring, I would leave the heater wired to the Intermatic timer, but add an on/off switch between the Intermatic and the heater.
 
The cheap way is to wire your pump to the line side of the Intermatic timer. This will make sure the pump always has power. Then use the intermatic timer to control the on/off of your heater and SWG. Synchronize the pump's timer with the Intermatic so that the heater and SWG are only on when the pump is running.

The expensive way is to add an automation system that controls all of this.

Going the cheap way for now. I talked to my SWG company (Circupool) and they recommended wiring it for 24/7 same as the pump. So that is what I will do. Only thing left on the timer will be the heater.

So to make sure I re-wire correctly - I have the Intermatic T104M which is a double pole single throw. It has 4 terminals, 1 and 3 are line and 2 and 4 are load. So I will leave the heater connected to 2,4 and move the pump and SWG to lines 1 and 3. I hope those lugs are large enough to handle 3 wires per terminal.


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So to make sure I re-wire correctly - I have the Intermatic T104M which is a double pole single throw. It has 4 terminals, 1 and 3 are line and 2 and 4 are load. So I will leave the heater connected to 2,4 and move the pump and SWG to lines 1 and 3. I hope those lugs are large enough to handle 3 wires per terminal.

Yes, I believe that is correct. If the lugs aren't big enough, you can always connect the line and load wires for the pump and SWG with wire nuts instead.
 
Glad it worked out!

One last comment/concern. I know your SWG manufacturer said it's fine to have power to your SWG all the time and rely on the pressure switch to turn off your SWG when the pump is off. However, I have seen other posts on the forum where there has been concern with this approach. The thinking is that if that pressure switch were to fail for whatever reason, it would ruin your SWG.

I'm not saying you need to change anything, but it's just what your comfort level is.
 
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