New to the Forum and Maintaining Our Pool.

Threewood

New member
Sep 15, 2020
3
Yuma, AZ
Hi,
New member but long time lurker
We have a 15,000 sq ft pebble tech chlorinated pool. The pool service we had was not doing a good job so I ordered a few Taylor kits and took over responsibilities.

First order of business was a drain and refill due to high TDS. We are now on week 3 of maintaining the pool and it has never looked better. Chlorine is right at 3ppm, pH at 7.5, TA around 110ppm. I'm taking a sample into the local pool place tomorrow to analyze the water again. Phosphorus was a bit high because we are next to an agricultural field and all the crud blows right in.

Looking forward to asking questions and picking some brains on here!16001509541898747604268615346884.jpg
 
Warning: I'm not an expert, but a long-time follower of the methods taught here. Some of the levels you mentioned and strategies you're following, i.e. TDS, have little or no relevance to the way pool care is taught here. I suggest that you read the free pool school e-book to understand my statement better and how you've found a far different and far better and far easier and far cheaper method of pool care. Click on the pool school tab; scroll to the bottom; download on Apple, Google Play, etc; and read the short book at your leisure. The methods taught here are simple; doesn't have you worrying about made-up issues that don't exist or are overplayed to sell you chemicals you don't need; and use real chemistry (not vudu chemistry) as the basis for developing the methodologies.
 
Kudos for taking over your pool. It'll look better and you'll save a lot of money in the process.

What's your CYA level? Your 3 ppm of chlorine sounds too low, and the chlorine level needs to increase as your CYA level increases.

How are you chlorinating? Tablets, salt water chlorine generation system?
 
Kudos for taking over your pool. It'll look better and you'll save a lot of money in the process.

What's your CYA level? Your 3 ppm of chlorine sounds too low, and the chlorine level needs to increase as your CYA level increases.

How are you chlorinating? Tablets, salt water chlorine generation system?

3 tablets in the floater per week.

I don't have the sheet in front of me but I believe the cya level was around 30ppm. I initially chlorinated with liquid bleach to get the level up and then have maintained with the tabs.
 
Welcome! :wave:

A few things
1) TDS is useless. If you have a SWG pool, you're starting with 3000 salt, then adding another 70 ppm CYA, and you'll want another 300 in CH and at least 50 TA.... it adds up fast. What each one is is more important than the total.
2) Pucks are about 6:10 CYA to FC. The FC goes away. The CYA builds. So you won;t be able to chlorinate with pucks indefinitely unless you like draining the pool
3) Don't bother taking a sample to the store. It will just confuse you. Just like a man with two watches is never sure precisely what time it is, you will never know which set of test results are correct. Experience here leans heavily on the home test being right.
4) You may be the one in a million that really has a need for Phosphate removers. If you go that route, do the research and spend the money on a good brand like SeaKlear.
5) Most all your questions have already been answered in Pool School or in the forums. You may find yourself suffering from information overload. Don't despair --- it gets easier with doing, especially the chemistry.
 
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3 tablets in the floater per week.

I don't have the sheet in front of me but I believe the cya level was around 30ppm. I initially chlorinated with liquid bleach to get the level up and then have maintained with the tabs.
Let's try this again. Troublefreepool.com is not just another pool care help website that teaches the same methods as what you've been shown elsewhere, and therefore, some of the topics you are referring to are not relevant here. Some of the assumptions you're making, such as that your FC level at 3 ppm is right, are not necessarily and probably aren't right. You're talking the language of the traditional method, and this is the TFPC method of pool care, which is the only chemically-correct method of pool care. It is different here. It is better here. It is cheaper and more simple to maintain pools following the methods taught here. It is free here. They are not selling anything here. You are encouraged to donate, but that comes after you figure out how to care for a pool using the TFPC methodologies and realize how valuable this site is for all things swimming pool and spa related.

There are a lot of gimmicks products and methods following the traditional methods of pool care that don't apply here. You've mentioned a couple of them, so we can tell that you've not read pool school, and to get help here with your pool you have to understand the basics of how pools are cared for using the TFPC methodologies, because you're giving incomplete information and providing levels that we are not concerned with here. The CYA level is critical to the way it is done using the TFPC method. We can't get you started without knowing that and without you knowing why that is so important.

Below is the link to pool school. There is an internet-based version but there is also an e-book format that you can find by clicking the link and scrolling to the bottom and downloading. I think that the e-book version is easier to follow and learn. Please get all of this TDS and phosphate Crud and the idea that 3 ppm FC is always a good level out of your mind and read and understand the basics of TFPC. Get a recommended test kit that's referenced in pool school. Then come back and ask questions to get started the tfpc way, because what you're reporting and asking is a different language than what is taught here.


At the heart of TFPC is setting in a specified range, and always knowing your CYA level, because here at TFPC, you maintain a target FC level at all times by adding liquid chlorine each day, or alternatively operating a saltwater generator to maintain FC goals; and these targets or goals are based on your CYA level. Trichlor tablets don't work using the methods taught here except in temporary or excepted situations, because they raise CYA as you go through the season using them (a level you want to keep constant using the TFPC method); they are acidic creating downward pressure on pH; and they are not a good way to accurately dose chlorine to keep FC in range, because they slowly dissolve at the same time that UV rays are breaking down FC. Also, In almost any situation, the FC level that you need to maintain is going to be higher than 3 ppm, but that will always be based on your CYA level. TFP provides a chart called a chlorine/cya chart so that you know the targets for your pool chlorination type for your cya level; but no one can proceed to help you when you're making assumptions that don't apply here and wanting feedback.

 
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Let's try this again. Troublefreepool.com is not just another pool care help website that teaches the same methods as what you've been shown elsewhere, and therefore, some of the topics you are referring to are not relevant here. Some of the assumptions you're making, such as that your FC level at 3 ppm is right, are not necessarily and probably aren't right. You're talking the language of the traditional method, and this is the TFPC method of pool care, which is the only chemically-correct method of pool care. It is different here. It is better here. It is cheaper and more simple to maintain pools following the methods taught here. It is free here. They are not selling anything here. You are encouraged to donate, but that comes after you figure out how to care for a pool using the TFPC methodologies and realize how valuable this site is for all things swimming pool and spa related.

There are a lot of gimmicks products and methods following the traditional methods of pool care that don't apply here. You've mentioned a couple of them, so we can tell that you've not read pool school, and to get help here with your pool you have to understand the basics of how pools are cared for using the TFPC methodologies, because you're giving incomplete information and providing levels that we are not concerned with here. The CYA level is critical to the way it is done using the TFPC method. We can't get you started without knowing that and without you knowing why that is so important.

Below is the link to pool school. There is an internet-based version but there is also an e-book format that you can find by clicking the link and scrolling to the bottom and downloading. I think that the e-book version is easier to follow and learn. Please get all of this TDS and phosphate Crud and the idea that 3 ppm FC is always a good level out of your mind and read and understand the basics of TFPC. Get a recommended test kit that's referenced in pool school. Then come back and ask questions to get started the tfpc way, because what you're reporting and asking is a different language than what is taught here.


At the heart of TFPC is setting in a specified range, and always knowing your CYA level, because here at TFPC, you maintain a target FC level at all times by adding liquid chlorine each day, or alternatively operating a saltwater generator to maintain FC goals; and these targets or goals are based on your CYA level. Trichlor tablets don't work using the methods taught here except in temporary or excepted situations, because they raise CYA as you go through the season using them (a level you want to keep constant using the TFPC method); they are acidic creating downward pressure on pH; and they are not a good way to accurately dose chlorine to keep FC in range, because they slowly dissolve at the same time that UV rays are breaking down FC. Also, In almost any situation, the FC level that you need to maintain is going to be higher than 3 ppm, but that will always be based on your CYA level. TFP provides a chart called a chlorine/cya chart so that you know the targets for your pool chlorination type for your cya level; but no one can proceed to help you when you're making assumptions that don't apply here and wanting feedback.

Thanks for your reply. I didn't assume anything I was testing was correct, I just listed the recent test results. I have read through pool school several times and didn't see that trichlor should not be used. I stated I also had liquid chlorine. So I need to stop the use of trichlor and go with liquid chlorine? I have all of the Taylor test kits. Check daily pH and TC, weekly TA, CYA is what I read in the articles. That's what I have been doing. 4 weeks in is all the experience I have at this.
 
Thanks for your reply. I didn't assume anything I was testing was correct, I just listed the recent test results. I have read through pool school several times and didn't see that trichlor should not be used. I stated I also had liquid chlorine. So I need to stop the use of trichlor and go with liquid chlorine? I have all of the Taylor test kits. Check daily pH and TC, weekly TA, CYA is what I read in the articles. That's what I have been doing. 4 weeks in is all the experience I have at this.
You had indicated that your FC at 3 was okay in your original post without also posting a confident cya level. I'd have to go back and read pool school but I'm pretty sure it's got some language in there about not using trichlor or it may use the words "stabilized chlorine"; trichlor is stabilized chlorine because it contains cyanuric acid. It's not as if these chlorine forms are banned from use here in any situation, but they should not be used without an understanding of how they affect cya level in pools and without understanding how increasing cya with the use of stabilized chlorine requires an adjustment in the FC level maintained as the cya level is increased. This concept of maintaining an fc/cya ratio is at the heart of this method of pool care that is not taught anywhere else, but is scientifically correct.
 
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