New to TFP, new pool owner, eventual algae problem, drained pool, wish I found this site sooner!

[blackS4]

Hi all,

I wish I found this site sooner. It's AWESOME and I learned so much, even just last night reading all sorts of posts/threads. Just wanted to say hi and tell my story since it's still going on.

Have a 15'x42" Summer Waves metal frame above ground pool. It has the skimmer on the side. I upgraded all hoses to 1.5" with shutoff valves, and am using an upgraded Intex 1500gph cartridge filter/pump. I removed the original baby pump that was built-in to the skimmer box so the flow is as good as it gets for 1.5" without moving to PVC.

First year owning a pool (of course) and everything was great for almost 2 months until it got very green and cloudy. I've been taking my water samples to a local pool store and they analyze them and print out the results and recommendations. Even with green and cloudy, they said the numbers looked fine and give it 24-48 hours. I waited, it didn't get better. Bought algicide, applied it, waited another 24-48 hours, it didn't get better. Have been vacuuming up the algae on the floor, it would come back by the time I finished the whole pool. Finally had enough and drained it a couple days ago to start from scratch.

Drained down to 1' via an external 1hp pump draining into my slop sink in the basement (our nearest gutters in the street flow to waterways so no dumping), then hooked up the vacuum in order to get all of the algae on the floor out. But again, after vacuuming the entire pool and turning around, there is still more. I've done this multiple times. it looks like a mustard color and is very fine. if you move disturb the water, it seems to dissolve...then settle later.

I did discover that if I try to vacuum the algae using the Intex 1500gph cartridge filter/pump, the algae goes THROUGH the filter and back into the pool. Does that sound possible/legit? Filters are either very clean, or brand new. I just ordered a backwash hose and have the following plan for future vacuuming: 1) connect the backwash hose to the outbound side of the pump/filter, 2) remove the filter, 3) vacuum the pool with the waste water leaving the pool, 4) top off the pool with fresh water.

Anyway, the last numbers from the water analysis before I drained were:
pH: 7.8
Alkalinity: 92
FC: 2.5
TC: 2.7
CYA: 65
Phosphate: 2480

Plan to shock the pool once it's filled. I know you guys like to SLAM it . I just want to get a solid level of chlorine in it immediately, then get the water analyzed and add the necessary CYA, pH reducer, etc... Unless you have other recommendations. Looking at buying a TF-100 kit. Had been using 7-item test strips from Amazon. They weren't "expired" but frequently when things on the strip looked OK, computer water analysis said chlorine was low like .3 (WTH!?). Bought 3-item strips from the pool place and the chlorine test seems much more accurate.

I had been using "CLC 3" chlorine powder which is what the local store sold me. They're out of that now of course. I got a bunch of chlorine pucks from my brother-in-law. I don't have one of those floating chlorine buoys so planned to put the pucks into the skimmer. That's my story. Pool is slowly filling back up and I can STILL see little algae spots on the floor...

Thanks for this site and all of your experience and info.

Steve

 

[Msch99]

Welcome to TFP!

Yup, you need your own test kit! TF 100 a good choice. I would get the speed stir with it too. Love mine. Once you get your kit, post the results and the experts will guide you.
Nice job putting pool info in signature, that helps them a lot!

Personally, I would skip the pucks, add dry stabilizer to get to 30 or so, add 5ppm liquid chlorine per day until your kit arrives and you can post your results. Or calculate how much CYA you are adding with pucks. (Dependingon puck type)

Good luck!

 

[kellyfair]

Since you are starting with new fill, you could use the pucks until your test kit arrives, in order to get some CYA in your pool. Then run your own tests so we get real numbers (pool stores typically not accurate). You’ll want to SLAM to kill any remaining algae so be sure and read up on that process (link in my signature).

List those real test numbers here and we’ll help you with steps to take.

Welcome aboard!

 

[blackS4]

Thanks guys. I had some stabilizer left over and added that. The calculator said it should have raised it to 30-40 and I've been using generic household bleach for chlorine this week keeping it at or above 5. I also just added some pH reducer as that's showing high. This is all just temporary until the test kit arrives on Monday. I'm so excited with all of this new knowledge from this site. As soon as I can accurately measure everything, I'll SLAM.

 

[blackS4]

received my TF-100 and these are the #s:

FC = 4
CC = .5
CYA = 30
pH = 8.2

This water is new and crystal clear. I'm going to go buy muriatic acid from Lowe's soon, and will need to go to the pool supply place to by stabilizer. After I add the necessary MA to lower the pH, do I need to wait a specific amount of time before I add the stabilizer? I have been using a powder stabilizer put into a nylon stocking hanging in my skimmer. I'm also going to put the necessary bleach in right now to get it to 6. It's going to be a very hot/sunny day today.

Curious what the forum thoughts are. Thanks!

Steve

 

[DorsalSpine]

MA poured into a running return will mix quickly. I usually give anything I add 5 minutes to mix. The MA poured near a running return isn't usually that close to the skimmer anyway. Shouldn't be an issue with the stabilizer.

 

[mknauss]

I'm going to go buy muriatic acid from Lowe's soon, and will need to go to the pool supply place to by stabilizer.

Lowes normally carries stabilizer too.

You need a TA value for Poolmath to accurately calculate how much acid you need to lower your pH.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You dont need more cya, 30 is fine for your area.

 

[blackS4]

TA = 180

 

[blackS4]

Need advice: I'm DUMPING bleach into this pool every day and it's being used up.

CYA always shows 30-40 (I've been testing daily. I pour enough of the liquid into the tube for the black dot to disappear, but if I wait a few seconds, I can kind of make it out again, so I add more solution. that's why I'm giving a range.)
CC is always .5
pH = 8.1 via digital meter. I haven't calibrated it yet though...
TA = 170
water temp = 87* just now

FC = 2.5 yesterday morning 10:08am. Added 28oz 6% bleach to get it to 6.0
FC = 4.0 last night at 5:15pm. I added 25oz 6% bleach to get it up to 7.0
FC = 5.0 this morning 11:34am
FC = 3.0 just now 7:07pm. I added 25oz 6% bleach to get it to 6.0

What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Sounds really normal. 25 oz of 6% bleach in your pool is 2.5 ppm FC. That is very reasonable for a daily use. It would be best to raise your base FC ppm up to the target range for 40 ppm CYA. See FC/CYA Levels

 

[blackS4]

Oh wow, OK. Question, the pool math app says 25oz of 6% bleach will raise FC 3.0 for a 4000gal pool and I've been living and breathing by that app. It is really closer to 2.5? I just want to make sure I'm doing this all correctly. Thanks for your help!

 

[mknauss]

3 ppm FC is right. Good job.

 

[Teald024]

Need advice: I'm DUMPING bleach into this pool every day and it's being used up.

CYA always shows 30-40 (I've been testing daily. I pour enough of the liquid into the tube for the black dot to disappear, but if I wait a few seconds, I can kind of make it out again, so I add more solution. that's why I'm giving a range.)

Hello and Welcome to TFP! I'm glad your excited and learning.

Right now you have 2 major enemies to your FC. The Sun and algae. The Sun will take it cut no matter what with typical FC losses around 3 ppm. You will loose this amount each day regardless and will need to be replenished with the liquid chlorine. Next is FC losses due to algae. As you kill the algae, the chlorine is used up, but this will get less and less as the process goes on. Based on your numbers, you aren't using much FC for algae and that is good.
Is there still visible algae? Is there debris on the floor in the morning? How clear is the water, still very clear?

For the CYA test, if you aren't adding CYA containing chemicals, it doesn't need to be done often, definitely not daily. If you are getting the same results then stop testing CYA for now.
When you do the CYA test, hold the measuring tube at waist level, with your back to the Sun. Pour a little solution in the tube and glance down to see if the dot is visible. If you can see the dot, look away and repeat by adding more solution. Keep going until the dot isn't visible at a glance. If you keep staring, your eye will find the dot. I look for blurred edges and can't tell if the dot is grey or the solution is grey hiding it.

 

[Jeff J.]

Oh wow, OK. Question, the pool math app says 25oz of 6% bleach will raise FC 3.0 for a 4000gal pool and I've been living and breathing by that app. It is really closer to 2.5? I just want to make sure I'm doing this all correctly. Thanks for your help!

FYI, most household bleaches are no longer acceptable for pools. They have additives that you don't want in your pool. You usually have to get liquid chlorine or liquid shock now.

 

[blackS4]

Hello and Welcome to TFP! I'm glad your excited and learning.

Right now you have 2 major enemies to your FC. The Sun and algae. The Sun will take it cut no matter what with typical FC losses around 3 ppm. You will loose this amount each day regardless and will need to be replenished with the liquid chlorine. Next is FC losses due to algae. As you kill the algae, the chlorine is used up, but this will get less and less as the process goes on. Based on your numbers, you aren't using much FC for algae and that is good.
Is there still visible algae? Is there debris on the floor in the morning? How clear is the water, still very clear?

For the CYA test, if you aren't adding CYA containing chemicals, it doesn't need to be done often, definitely not daily. If you are getting the same results then stop testing CYA for now.
When you do the CYA test, hold the measuring tube at waist level, with your back to the Sun. Pour a little solution in the tube and glance down to see if the dot is visible. If you can see the dot, look away and repeat by adding more solution. Keep going until the dot isn't visible at a glance. If you keep staring, your eye will find the dot. I look for blurred edges and can't tell if the dot is grey or the solution is grey hiding it.

No visible algae. Crystal clear water. Just standard pine needles, etc at the bottom. Thanks for the advice for the CYA test. I guess I didn't realize how much FC would be used up by the sun, and how often more chlorine would need to be added. Not a problem, just good to know and understand. Thanks!