New to TFP method

[Mswinford]

Hello! I’m going to give this method a shot. The pool guy switched us from a SWG to a chlorinator last season and we had no problems. This year, pool was a swamp when we opened, he said put 15lbs shock and then use tabs...poll cleared up for a few days and has had algae ever since. ~ 6weeks...pool store keeps saying chemical lock, we drain, shock, and then algae...I got fed up and then found your site! We just took a long weekend to visit family. I took all tabs out and we drained about 12inches off pool and ordered the Taylor k-2006c kit...
Today, when we got back home, I did my first test.
FC 0
CYA 80
PH 7.2
TA 70
CH 120
I have an 18x32 rectangle sport pool that is 5 1/2 feet deep...the pool math app is telling me 3 gallons of 7% bleach to SLAM it....my problem is in Oklahoma, we participate in “smart hours” in the summer...so you can’t run pool pump from 2pm-7pm...not sure if this will mess with my slam...I would like to start tonight, the pool has algae on the floor and walls and is looking turquoise...
Any guidance is appreciated

 

[Mswinford]

Here is how it looks today

 

[Texas Splash]

looking turquoise...

That statement has me a bit worried. Obviously the pool tech had you going in the wrong direction. Now I'm wondering if he dumped a bunch of copper-based algaecides in there. Can you post a pic of the water? It would be nice to rule out copper, otherwise you might have to exchange more water to remove it.

Welcome to TFP!
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[Texas Splash]

Here is how it looks today

You read my mind. Ha. I see a slight tint, not as bad as I thought. Maybe just my view though. But if you think the turquoise is from copper, or you see signs of staining anywhere, exchanging a bit more water would help with that and lowering the CYA just a bit more to make SLAM a little easier (lower FC level.

 

[Mswinford]

Oh yes! I forgot he had us add a gallon of algeacide...but that was a few weeks ago and we have drained and replaced water at least twice since then...as to whether or not it had copper, not sure, I just used what I had picked up from Walmart at the end of last season before we closed it. It seems like the levels are ok to start a SLAM, just wondering if the 5 hours it’s off will be a problem...

 

[Griswald]

The same pool guy that got rid of your salt system told you to put a gallon of algicide in your water?????

Run...run far and run fast.

I can guarantee you that nobody on this site would have told you to get rid of a salt system and a gallon of algicide will probably mean a full drain.
Can you put the salt system back?

 

[DeanP66]

I don't think it will hurt to badly. It will just take a little longer to clear the pool.

 

[PoolNewb2020]

Do you have a variable speed pump or single speed pump? Water filtration is very important for the SLAM process to be successful, so not running your pump for 7 hours out of a day may extend the process by quite a bit.
I would "unparticipate" myself until the pool is 100% again.

 

[Mswinford]

The pool guy took out the salt system because he could t tell if the salt generator was bad or the computer...he said either way it would cost $$$, plus he said our well water was so hard that it was causing the cell to go bad quickly...we did have to replace the pump this year to a pentair intelliflo variable speed pump which was $2000 after all the replumbing, so not excited to go back to the salt just yet. The variable speed pump has been an adjustment, I feel like it doesn’t skim the pool well even tho we usually run it at 2700...the pool has got me down so far this summer!

 

[Texas Splash]

"Ms", it does sound like you've been down a tough road with repairs and some poor advice. Water under the bridge now. I can say that you should not need to run your VSP at 2700 most of the time, but that is certainly up to you. I would be hesitant to spend more money on a SWG after dropping $2K recently as well, but maybe next season. Since it seems like a SLAM Process is forthcoming, ... yes, you can start now sure. With a CYA of 80 your SLAM FC level is 31. If you decide to lower the CYA just a little bit more, than you'll be able to maintain a lower FC SLAM level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. It's your option. Make sure to confirm the pH is at about 7.2 before increasing the FC to SLAM level. Once you do increase the FC, watch the pool for color changes or stains related to the copper. No changes means you probably reduced the copper level from the previous water exchanges. Make sure to review the SLAM Process page each day for things to do. As for the pump OFF period, do what you have to do. Once you start it back up, adjust that FC and press-on with the SLAM Process. Good luck, and let us know if you have any other questions.

 

[Texas Splash]

"Ms", a lot of the TFP Pool School links are broke at the moment due to some server issues, so if you click on any of the links provided and they don't work its not you. It's us. We can still answer those questions directly on this thread until the links get reestablished.

 

[Mswinford]

Thanks Texas Splash! Looks like a lot of the algae is gone this morning, but water is pretty cloudy, I can still see the bottom...no FC according to test kit, the water did not turn pink when I added the powder ...I added 4 more gallons and will keep testing, brushing and adding throughout the day...I have to say the testing makes me a little nervous, I hope I am doing it right!

 

[Texas Splash]

I have to say the testing makes me a little nervous, I hope I am doing it right!

For the FC testing, please use the following method: Use a 10 ML water sample size with one generous scoop of powder. Add drops and stir from pink to clear. Then divide that number in half. For example, 24 drops would equal an FC of 12. Do your best to maintain the required FC (SLAM) level as required for best results.

 

[splashpad]

Thanks Texas Splash! Looks like a lot of the algae is gone this morning, but water is pretty cloudy, I can still see the bottom...no FC according to test kit, the water did not turn pink when I added the powder ...I added 4 more gallons and will keep testing, brushing and adding throughout the day...I have to say the testing makes me a little nervous, I hope I am doing it right!

Time & Money-saving tip during early part of SLAM Process

• If you are getting zero FC when testing, you can save some expensive FAS DPD powder (and time) and check *IF*there is chlorine to test for with the yellow OTO drops
  • it does NOT give you a precise amount, just whether chlorine is present or not
• If the OTO test doesn't turn yellow, no need to use the expensive FAS-DPD test, dose your full amount of liquid chlorine/bleach according to PoolMath for your pool size and CYA level according to FC/CYA Levels

 

[Wobblerlorri]

Time & Money-saving tip during early part of SLAM Process

Great tip, Splash!

 

[Mswinford]

Ok...went home and checked pool during break, FC is down to 2 ...I think I might drain and refill the pool a bit while the pump is supposed to be off during 2-7pm timeframe and restart the slam tonight....

 

[Mswinford]

That way maybe my CYA will be a little lower...still sitting at cya of 80

 

[splashpad]

It's a bum, but will be easier in the long run! You can still add chlorine with the pump off, but you will manually need to get the water moving, with net/brush/etc

 

[Mswinford]

The drain and refill is complete! I just tested water...
CYA 40 !
FC 0
PH 7.2
TA 80
So, if I read the pool school chart right, I need to have an FC of 16 to get rid of the little bit of algae I have now. I’ll start adding bleach at 7pm tonight and see where I am in the morning...any advice on how much bleach I should add to start?

 

[splashpad]

Use PoolMath app or online PoolMath, enter your pools parameters and goal = target FC level

Good job!