New to me pool, lots of work to be done.

Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
I started posting this in my introduction but realized that probably isn't the best spot so here is my main set of questions about moving forward with my pool.
I just bought a house with a rather large L-shaped pool. It is dated and will probably need new plaster and tile in the future but it currently holds water fine so I am going to focus on getting it running and staying clean for now.
I have been reading a bit on the forum but figured now is a good time to introduce myself and ask for advice specific to my setup.
My understanding is the pool is approx 40k gallons and was built in the mid to late 70s. It is a large rectangle that goes to 12or13ft deep with a slide and diving board. There is also a small 2-3person spa and a separate square shallow kids pool separated by a wall. Both the kids pool and main pool have 1 skimmer and 1 floor drain that appear to be connected together. The spa has one floor drain and a set of 4 jets.
The pool equipment is housed in a nice little pool house building. There is a large Triton ii sand filter and 2hp pump. The pump has always had trouble priming and seems to be getting worse and the filter seems to blow sand into the pool. I started troubleshooting and found the pump has a cracked blade or impeller so I am looking for advice on what to do to get my system running nicely and cost efficiently. The current pump is single speed from what I know and costs quite a bit money to run. The sand filter has a simple backflush valve with only 2 positions. There is 2 incoming lines and 2 outgoing lines. 1 incoming from pool and kiddie pool, and 1 from spa. Then outgoing lines goes to several spots in both pools. And 2nd one goes to spa jets. The outgoing valve seems bad and can't be turned to jets. I also opened up the sand filter and found a part disconnected on top of the sand with a couple pieces of brittle hose. I think it's called an air vent.
I also have a pressure pump for a Polaris 280.
I will attach some pictures of the equipment and what I have found so far. I am looking for advice on what to replace and what to keep, etc. My initial thought is to dump the sand filter and check internals, replace backflush valve with new multi-position, get new variable or 2 speed energy efficient pump and replumb for new valves, potentially ones that can later be automated or integrated into some type of pool system. Any advice is much appreciated!
Thanks!
 

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kimkats

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Jul 10, 2012
41,310
Tallahassee, FL
I think you are on the right track with wanting to start over on the plumbing especially if you are wanting to automate it. I am going to call in one of our equipment people to give the best advice on WHAT to get @Jimrahbe My gut says you may need to replace that filter but Jim might know better. You DO need to have a multi port for it as that is so much easier to use.

I would love to see the whole pool!

So do you have a test kit yet? If not here is a link showing the different ones we recommend: Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool I will also tell you that I think the TF-100 is the best bang for the buck. The next one would be the Taylor 2006C (the C is very important for this one). After these two it is a wash.

How are you adding chlorine now?

Here is some light reading for you: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry - Trouble Free Pool this will get up to speed on how we do pool care.

Kim:kim:
 
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Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
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Bedford, TX
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Welcome to TFP...

You could fix your existing pump, but if this were my pool, I would replace it with a large VS pump. I am a highly biased Pentair kind of guy, so I would recommend the "gold standard" of pool pumps, the IntelliFlo. The IntelliFlo can run standalone or can be controlled by automation.

I see no reason not to keep the Sand Filter, but I would want to clean it out and inspect and repair the internal parts. Adding the multiport is a double edge sword. On one hand it adds functions that you do not have now, but on the other hand, as they age, they get hard to turn and there is a reason that pool stores carry replacement spider gaskets. Why do you want to add the multiport? What do you expect to gain? If this were my pool I would replace the existing push/pull valve unless you "need" a multiport.

You are lucky that the pipes coming out of the concrete are long enough to cut at the top and replumb. I like your idea of replumbing... I would use Jandy Style never lube valves which can be automated later.

I see nothing odd about your plumbing, so replumbing should be straightforward.

Unless you are in love with the way your pressure side cleaner looks in your pool 24/7, then I would dump the 1960's technology and move up to this Century and use one of today's Robots that does not require your pumps to be running to clean your pool.

Good luck with your project..

Jim R.
 
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Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
Thanks Jim and Kim. I was wondering if the pressure side cleaner was good or not. What's a good robot and how much do they cost? How do you connect them? Would I just cap off the line ran into the pool for the pressure line?
Thanks for the pump and valve info. For the pump do I just get 2hp since I already have a 2hp? Also is the jandy valve only one type or do I need to figure out additional info besides the pipe diameter. My current lines are 2in but go down to 1.5 at the pump and filter. Should everything just be the same diameter?
As for the backflush. The current one drops when you change it and looks beat up so I figured since I was redoing pipes it would be useful. If having additional settings is not worth it, I am not vested in keeping or getting rid of it. Just want best use and reliable.
I am definitely going to order the test kit and start the tfp method. I currently have a bunch of sani-chlor bottles that a friend gave me and told me some generic amounts to add to keep pool from getting nasty.
Here is decent shot of the main pool shortly after getting the house.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Razorhog

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Jun 20, 2013
663
Northeast Arkansas
I have a Polaris 280 and it does a great job. The 280 is a classic and well loved cleaner. If you have to replace the booster pump or motor to get it working, I'd go with an electric robot cleaner.
 

splashpad

Bronze Supporter
Aug 2, 2017
1,994
SE Kansas!
Welcome to TFP-forums!!
As you sort out your pool & equipment details, can you add the info to your sig please? It will save you from having to repeat it over/over again ;)
I just bought a house with a rather large L-shaped pool. It is dated and will probably need new plaster and tile in the future but it currently holds water fine so I am going to focus on getting it running and staying clean for now.
You are in the right place! +1
My understanding is the pool is approx 40k gallons and was built in the mid to late 70s. It is a large rectangle that goes to 12or13ft deep with a slide and diving board. There is also a small 2-3person spa and a separate square shallow kids pool separated by a wall. Both the kids pool and main pool have 1 skimmer and 1 floor drain that appear to be connected together. The spa has one floor drain and a set of 4 jets.
The pool equipment is housed in a nice little pool house building.
This sounds awesome!
I am looking for advice on what to replace and what to keep, etc. My initial thought is to dump the sand filter and check internals, replace backflush valve with new multi-position, get new variable or 2 speed energy efficient pump and replumb for new valves, potentially ones that can later be automated or integrated into some type of pool system. Any advice is much appreciated!
I second the suggestions for a new 1.5-2HP VS (variable speed) Pump and possibly a new Sand Filter (@InyoRob or @InyoMatt might have parts for the sand filter) Can you see model #'s?

As for the backflush. The current one drops when you change it and looks beat up so I figured since I was redoing pipes it would be useful
Is this a guage OR a valve you are referring too?

I am definitely going to order the test kit and start the tfp method
  • TF-100 Test Kit ™ This is the best deal hands down for a FULL proper test kit.
    • I like to recommend the Standard Sampler as well, for those new to testing, it helps you get comfortable with where & how to test :)
      • The CYA test has the 'steepest' learning curve, but it's not impossible!
    • Get a SpeedStir for sure! (you can price shop or snag it with the kit purchase)
  • You WILL need *refills* ((as you will go through quite a bit)) these 2 reagents (feel free to price shop for the best deals, pay attention to SIZE!)
    • R-0870 powder (look for the .25lb or 110g size, R-0870-J)
    • R-0871 liquid (look for the 16 or 32 oz size, letter F or J, I think)
. I currently have a bunch of sani-chlor bottles that a friend gave me and told me some generic amounts to add to keep pool from getting nasty.
Is this Liquid Chlorine? Excellent! If it's not, pics please?
 
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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
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Jul 7, 2014
14,426
Bedford, TX
99,

VS pumps come in two basic sizes.. 1.5 HP or 3 HP... The 1.5 HP units are designed to work with 1.5" plumbing and the 3 HP units are designed to work with 2" plumbing.

The great thing about VS pumps is that you do not have to worry about HP.. They really should be called variable HP pumps, as you just use the HP you need. Big VS pumps push more more at a lower RPM, so they are slightly more efficient and quiet.

The IntelliFlo pump that I recommend is a 3 HP (MAX) VS pump... P/N 011018 or the replacement 011018. Since you are replumbing anyway, I would use 2" all the way.. But, it will not really matter much one way or the other.. An IntelliFlo can work with either 1.5 or 2" pipes.

Here is a starter thread on Robots.. Doheny's Discovery, S200, Active20, Triton owners club


Thanks,

Jim R.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
41,310
Tallahassee, FL
An robot aka electric cleaner has to be plugged in to run. The outlet should be a GFCI one to safe. It is said you should not swim when the cleaner is plugged in.

If you ditch the pressure side cleaner you will just cap the pipe it was run through.

Kim:kim:
 

Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
Welcome to TFP-forums!!
As you sort out your pool & equipment details, can you add the info to your sig please? It will save you from having to repeat it over/over again ;)
You are in the right place! +1
This sounds awesome!
I second the suggestions for a new 1.5-2HP VS (variable speed) Pump and possibly a new Sand Filter (@InyoRob or @InyoMatt might have parts for the sand filter) Can you see model #'s?
Yes it's a Triton II sand filter and is model TR-100

Is this a guage OR a valve you are referring too?
I am referring to the valve. It is a simple push down pull up valve next to the sand filter. It drips when you move it and looks overall worn. I was under the impression the multi port gave you better options that was useful for maintenance. Right now I can only choose better filtering orback flushing.


  • TF-100 Test Kit ™ This is the best deal hands down for a FULL proper test kit.
    • I like to recommend the Standard Sampler as well, for those new to testing, it helps you get comfortable with where & how to test :)
      • The CYA test has the 'steepest' learning curve, but it's not impossible!
    • Get a SpeedStir for sure! (you can price shop or snag it with the kit purchase)
  • You WILL need *refills* ((as you will go through quite a bit)) these 2 reagents (feel free to price shop for the best deals, pay attention to SIZE!)
    • R-0870 powder (look for the .25lb or 110g size, R-0870-J)
    • R-0871 liquid (look for the 16 or 32 oz size, letter F or J, I think)
Is this Liquid Chlorine? Excellent! If it's not, pics please? Yes I believe so. Label says 12.5 sodium hypochlorite
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,426
Bedford, TX
99,

The idea that you should not swim with a robot in the pool has nothing to do with electrical safety. The robot runs off low voltage DC which cannot hurt you. It is based on the fact that someone could possibly get entangled in the cord... It is really more of a cover your rear thing from the manufacturer, rather than a true safety issue.. The robot is also pretty quiet and can surprise you..

This morning, I was swapping out my skimmer baskets, and as I was kneeling down on the deck reaching into the skimmer, my robot came up right next to me.. Scared me to death for half a second as I had a Jaws flash back... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

splashpad

Bronze Supporter
Aug 2, 2017
1,994
SE Kansas!
Yes it's a Triton II sand filter and is model TR-100
Pentair! There are a few people that this will make happy

I am referring to the valve. It is a simple push down pull up valve next to the sand filter. It drips when you move it and looks overall worn. I was under the impression the multi port gave you better options that was useful for maintenance. Right now I can only choose better filtering orback flushing.
Screenshot_20190502-214532.png
Yes I believe so. Label says 12.5 sodium hypochlorite
Use PoolMath to start dosing!
 

Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
Pentair! There are a few people that this will make happy


View attachment 99595
Use PoolMath to start dosing!
Yes I have the valve labeled as #40. Is it good to switch to a multi port since I am doing plumbing work anyway? Or just rebuild/replace the two position one? I got the impression the multiport gave you more options/flexibility to control things and rinse sand etc. vs just filter and backflow. If it's not worth the $100 bucks then just let me know.
Thanks
 

splashpad

Bronze Supporter
Aug 2, 2017
1,994
SE Kansas!
Yes I have the valve labeled as #40. Is it good to switch to a multi port since I am doing plumbing work anyway? Or just rebuild/replace the two position one? I got the impression the multiport gave you more options/flexibility to control things and rinse sand etc. vs just filter and backflow. If it's not worth the $100 bucks then just let me know.
Thanks
Oh yes, the multiport is the way to go! :D You will need to measure or know your input/output, as they have both the 1.5" and 2" sizes.
Also what's the best price place to buy parts and pumps? I saw the intelliflo recommended pump for between 800-1100 on Amazon but is that the best place to buy?
For the most part, it depends on the warranty desired... Some resellers offer better warranties than others.
 

Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
Ok I think I am going with the new intelliflo pump. I also emptied out the sand filter and cleaned it. The old sand looked very fine, which I believe explains all the sand blown into my pool. The laterals all look fine. Only thing bad is the air vent tube at the top was broken and not connected. The sand filter states you can load pea gravel and sand or just sand. It had the gravel but should I put both or just new sand?
Also in the middle of all these I started thinking that if I am redoing pump and all plumbing should I consider buying an IC60 and automation setup? It looks like everything pentair integrates with each other so unless I am mistaken it's worth keeping to the same brand. I have heard salt is better and nicer to use and my long term goal is for the pool to be more automated but I am unsure if it's a good idea. I hate redoing stuff especially if I will make it easier to manage the pool overall.
Sorry for all the questions! But I appreciate the help.
 
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splashpad

Bronze Supporter
Aug 2, 2017
1,994
SE Kansas!
Ok I think I am going with the new intelliflo pump. I also emptied out the sand filter and cleaned it. The old sand looked very fine, which I believe explains all the sand blown into my pool. The laterals all look fine. Only thing bad is the air vent tube at the top was broken and not connected.
I would say *that* is where the sand was getting through. Glad the laterals are in good shape!! whew!!
The sand filter states you can load pea gravel and sand or just sand. It had the gravel but should I put both or just new sand?
I would personally go all sand (my thought is more filtering surface). But you can do whatever the manufacture allows :)
  • Before refilling:
    • Do cover the internal pipe openings
    • Do fill about half full with water before adding either (sand/gravel) to protect the laterals ;)
Also in the middle of all these I started thinking that if I am redoing pump and all plumbing should I consider buying an IC60 and automation setup? It looks like everything pentair integrates with each other so unless I am mistaken it's worth keeping to the same brand. I have heard salt is better and nicer to use and my long term goal is for the pool to be more automated but I am unsure if it's a good idea. I hate redoing stuff especially if I will make it easier to manage the pool overall.
Definitely! No need to do it twice :)
Sorry for all the questions! But I appreciate the help.
That's why I love the TFP-forums, no apologies :) Everyone loves to help!
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
41,310
Tallahassee, FL
Well this is easy...............what Splashy said!!!

If you do go for automation you DO need to keep it all the in family. Outsiders don't always talk with each other too well. I am going to call in back up for what to buy and let him take that part over......... @Jimrahbe

Kim:kim:
 
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Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
14,426
Bedford, TX
99,

Modifying everything and adding automation all at the same time would be my choice as it would easier to do.. The only downside is the cost.

The IntelliFlo pump is designed to integrate with either the EasyTouch or new IntelliCenter automation systems. I have the EasyTouch, which works great, but if I were to buy a new system today, it would be the IntelliCenter.. It has many more functions and capabilities than EasyTouch.. Would you use them all? Probably not, but better to have them if you ever need them.

Here is a thread.. Pentair IntelliCenter Review - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

You can use our search function and look for posts by myazpool for more info..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Superman99

Active member
May 2, 2019
38
Monterey, CA
Thanks everyone! Of course these questions have only led to more questions. Since I am basically changing everything except the filter, should I look at other options/brands? I have been looking at pentair and the only thing that frustrates me is it seems they are against DIY users. I don't like the idea that I have to pay a bunch of money to someone to install a part to get the warranty. I found some info on here about circupool and really like the fact that their 7 year warranty is not affected by diy install. Any advice on this would be great.
Also is there any where on here that has recommended plumbing setups? I am going to cut out the old valves and install new but my current system seems to have a lot of 90degree turns and u turns and I am thinking I should try to eliminate them. Also should I get a valve to bypass the heater? Where do I put a check valve or check valves? This is the type of info I am looking for. I don't trust that my system is optimal and not been jury rigged over time.
Thanks