Was not first choice, but want to use the box I got before switching. CH has been holding at 250 and I have been using up the box for three days.You are in Phoenix. Cal Hypo should be illegal to sell there. Your fill water will triple your CH in a year.
When your FC is 10 ppm or greater, pH test is invalid.
Nope, no aeration, no fill water the auto leveler out of commission and plugged. The only things going into the pool are what I put in, the wind blows in or what falls from the sky. The last two get pulled out within a couple hours.Do you have a spa spillover running? Any water features? Your returns pointed up and creating ripples in the water?
I would consider putting some trichlor pucks in a floater. They will lower your PH and TA, and raise your CYA. And keep your CL up.Latest test, roller coaster continues...
Ph was 7.4 and Alk 75 prior to adding Chlorine last night at 20:30.
Test 12:00 9/3/19
FC - 6.5
CC - .5
Ph - 7.8
Alk - 80
CYA - 30
Calcium - 250
Water Temp - 86 °F
CSI = 0.23 (pool math)
12:30 9/3/19 Added 37 fl oz of 28.3% muriatic acid
Jean,I'm no expert here, but I do have a background in chemistry and I'm wondering why you lowered your pH to 7.1 from 7.6? Or am I misreading your notes? Perhaps your pH would have been stable at the 7.6 level with lower TA, but you'll never know because you keep forcing it down. Not sure why. Seems you might be micro managing just a bit.
Also, some research on-line shows the calcium hypochlorite can raise pH (I attached 1 source). Maybe try another method of chlorination and see if that yields different results.
Even at equilibrium, you'll still be adding acid. I do about 2x per week.