New pool water not 100% clear using DE filter

mihzyd777

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2009
290
Manteca, CA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So our new pool using KrystalKrete Quartz was filled a little 2 weeks ago. For the first 9 days or so the PB put 9 gallons of acid in water so it can be acid washed using the brush 2-3 times a day. Yes I had to do it and it's a great workout for anyone looking for a free gym membership.
So after 9 days PB emptied pool 50% and filled it back up. He added all the Cynauric acid (Natural Chemistry Instant Conditioner), chlorine, and Scaletec Plus, (pictures added of the product used)etc to bring the pool to where it should be. Here are my current results:
Ph- 7.4
Chlorine - 3ppm
Alkalinity - 80
CYA - 80
FC - 2
So when we built this pool we put the same equipment we bad on our old pool because we like it so much. Which is a Pentair Intelliflo VSF pump, IC 40 (no salt yet since it hasn't been 21 days), so using liquid chlorine. Then this time we went from the Pentair Quad 80 DE filter to the Quad 100 DE Filter. I'm using ZeoFiber in my DE filter just like I did for 10 years on my last DE filter.
The pool is almost 24,000 gallons. We have a Dolphin M600 cleaner that we bought as well.
Here is the problem- I think there is something wrong with my DE filter. I've taken it apart 3 times already, contacted Zeo Inc. to be sure the 26 cups of Zeo Fiber I put in was correct, and it is. The water in the shallow end for the most part is clear, however the deep end seems cloudy. Att night with the pool lights on you can see in the deep end what looks like a bunch of fine Zeo Fiber mixed in the water, which is more than likely why it's cloudy. Ome important thing to know is when my PB added the pre-Mixed stabilizer in the gallon jug to my skimmer slowly, you can see the tiny white beads shoot right back out through the returns into the pool. I contacted Pentair, and they said no it's not leaking and they said to remove the filter and run system for a couple days to be sure chemicals all get mixed in and then put filter back. One thing to note is on the new Quad DE filters they use a little rubber stopper looking deal with a screen on top that goes inside the filter on top of the center pvc pipe that is pr9bably the breather pipe. My old Quad DE 80 filter had what looked like a cyclinder shaped air stone instead of the screen, this part was loose and I out it on correctly this last time, and I thought maybe that is why the water is cloudy, but no luck.
Any ideas? I'm sure I forgot some things, but I'm totally open to any ideas orwhat to really look for inside DE filter to see if it's where the DE is escaping back into the returns.

I've attached a night pic with the pool light on to hopefully show what it looks like and another during the day.

Thank you in advance for any help and sorry for the long post.
 

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zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
14,045
Houston, Texas
Until the plaster is cured enough to add salt you need to run your pool as if it was manually chlorinated. For a CYA of 80 your target range for FC is 9-11ppm, and it should never drop below 6ppm. You listed a current FC of 2 and a chlorine of 3. If FC is 2 and total chlorine is 3 then you have 1ppm of combined chlorine which, along with cloudy water and low FC levels, indicates a need to slam the pool. You will need liquid chlorine to complete the SLAM Process. Cloudy water is rarely a filtration problem, instead it is the first sign of an imminent algae bloom.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
33,620
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So your builder used both liquid conditioner AND granular stabilizer? They sure dumped a bunch of that stuff in there. Well, if it is algae, you can't do a SLAM for 30 days, so you may have to just increase the FC as Zea noted and wait it out.
 

VetteBlue

Active member
May 15, 2015
38
Maryland
We shock ours with a couple of pounds of dichlor to clear up cloudy water. As someone above said, your chlorine is low for your current operating conditions. I presume this isn't new for your pool builder. I would just let them deal with it when they come back to add salt. If you start chasing it and introducing things they aren't used to dealing with, it might take a while for them to bring the water around for you.
 

PoolGate

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 7, 2017
6,476
Damascus, MD
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Your filter is a storage location for particulate matter collected from the water column. It has little to do with water clarity. Follow the SLAM advice given above.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
33,620
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
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Surface
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Chlorine
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@mihzyd777, I know it's been mentioned several times in this short thread, but as a reminder ....
Do not SLAM (or shock) the pool during the first 30 days.

That's from the link below. If you still have cloudiness after a couple more seeks, go for it. Before that time, you could get a good idea of your water's condition by doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test .

 
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VetteBlue

Active member
May 15, 2015
38
Maryland
Which adds more CYA. Not needed in this pool.
Use liquid chlorine and the SLAM Process.
Right - except he's within 30 days of building the pool so he shouldn't SLAM it yet. And the page you linked says he shouldn't SLAM it at CYA 90 or above.

Sure it will raise CYA by about 5 in his size pool. But it will also get his chlorine up to 8.5/9 which should clear up the cloudy water.
 

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mihzyd777

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2009
290
Manteca, CA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Right - except he's within 30 days of building the pool so he shouldn't SLAM it yet. And the page you linked says he shouldn't SLAM it at CYA 90 or above.

Sure it will raise CYA by about 5 in his size pool. But it will also get his chlorine up to 8.5/9 which should clear up the cloudy water.
But like my other question on here isn't a chlorine level of 8-9 or even 11 even swimmable? I thought it wasn't safe to have chlorine above 4-5ppm?
 

mihzyd777

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2009
290
Manteca, CA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes. Refer to the FC/CYA Chart. You have a CYA of 80 and can be in water with a much higher FC level.
And juat to be FC is free Chloring right.....so I need to dump another gallon or so of 10% Chlorine that I have lol. This also won't cause the kids eyes to burn and turn red? Lol
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
33,620
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
And juat to be FC is free Chloring right.....so I need to dump another gallon or so of 10% Chlorine that I have lol. This also won't cause the kids eyes to burn and turn red? Lol
Correct. FC = Free Chlorine. Whenever you have any concerns about where you FC should be, always go to that FC/CYA Chart. That is your key to keeping algae away, or removing it if you ever do get algae. First you confirm your CYA and pool type, then find the corresponding FC for that CYA. There's an ideal range for daily use, then your see a tab for SLAM when someone needs to remove algae. To give you an idea, you can swim in an FC level up to that SLAM level. So there's plenty of room.
 
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