New pool - Water Milky

RoyR

Bronze Supporter
Jul 31, 2018
240
Escondido/CA
Into the second week...water went in on Sunday (1/27) - how did we get here:

1. Been working on keeping the pH low, adding MA as required and brushing twice a day.
2. The person helping me, did not clean the filter for the first 7 days (pressure did not go up either)...he added BIO-DEX andMAGENTA STUFF on day 1
3. No chlorine was added during this time either...he did added some Phosphate remover on Friday 2/1
4. Day 7-8 (2/2) the pool started getting milky, and dirty - filter was cleaned (1/4) - really dirty.
5. Chlorine was added, probably 3 gal of 10%.
6. Slightly better this AM (1/5) - added some MA to lower the pH....it's been raining, I have very little plaster dust...he added conditioner on Friday too, but I can't seem to get the test to show it.

What are my options - can't get an idea if it's algae cause I can't get a reliable FC with all this rain....is that true? I believe you are not supposed to SLAM in the first 28 days?

I have a TFP100 kit, pebblesheen pool - pump has been running non-stop.
 

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Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Roy, you might consider doing an Overnight Loss Test just to make sure it is indeed algae making the water cloudy, but that would be my guess. I'm thinking the lack of chlorine finally caught up with you. You want to avoid a SLAM at this point with such a new pool. It looks like your CYA goal was 40 correct? If so, I'd just maintain a standard, consistant FC level per the Recommeded Levels chart until your first 30 days is up, then SLAM as needed. You can still test FC accurately. The rain is no issue.
 

RoyR

Bronze Supporter
Jul 31, 2018
240
Escondido/CA
Ok, besides pH, I will aim for FC / CYA of 5-7 / 40 (and CLEAN the filter).....thanks. This will be a SWCG pool, that's why I opted for a CYA of 40....I also have no idea of what I'm doing!
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
I also have no idea of what I'm doing!
Bwwahhaaahaaa! That's why we're all here. You'll get it. For now, keep it simple. FC in that daily range, don't let the pH get crazy high (7.8-8.0 is still fine), and brush the walls when you get bored. :) After 30 days you'll be able to add salt and prepare for the SWG.

Keep this in mind though .... IF you do have signs on algae at 30 days, don't increase the CYA to 70 (yet) like recomended for a salt pool. Do the SLAM first at the lower (current) CYA which will require less bleach. That's only "if" you have algae later.
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
32,856
Sebring, Florida
Can you post current test results from your TF-100? The rain has no real affect on your tests other than you getting a little wet!
 

RoyR

Bronze Supporter
Jul 31, 2018
240
Escondido/CA
1549427673794.png

Pool is much clearer tonight - will check FC in the AM. I feel like an actor on Breaking Bad...

Cl - 5+
pH -7.2
FC - 4
CC - 0.5
TA - 90
CH - 200
CYA - 0 (only added 1 gal, more on order)
SALT - 0 (not measured, not sure what it could be)
TEMP - 60
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
10,574
Northern NJ
Run your pH in the 7.6 to 7.8 range so that your CSI is closer to 0. With new plaster you want your CS between 0 and 0.5 for the first 30 days. Then get CSI between 0 and -0.3.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Roy, besides letting your pH rise back to the upper 7s, don't add anymore conditioner right now. Keep it in that 30-40 range as initially dispensed, and wait until your 30-day break-in period is complete. That way you'll know later if you need to SLAM or not. The Poolmath will also help you with your salt level which is commonly around 3000 - 3500 or so. Your SWG manual should clarify. If you don't have it handy, just use your friend "Google" or let us know and someone here can help. But again, you have that 30-day window before starting the SWG, so you still have plenty of time. Besides the TF-100, I hope you have a good salt test kit. If not, I'd get one now from TFTestkits.net. They have a couple to chose from. Lastly, unless you change a lot of water anytime soon, your TA, CH, and CYA should remain fairly consistant. Focus on the FC and pH each day for a while. Those two are kind of important right now - FC to avoid algae and pH to ensure proper plaster curing.
 

RoyR

Bronze Supporter
Jul 31, 2018
240
Escondido/CA
OCLT FC - 4ppm this AM, so no drop over night (no algae)...I think the cloudiness was from that phosphate remover he added.

Much better this AM, ran the waterfall to up the PH - will monitor FC / pH closely, thanks.
 

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