New pool... stenner pump install

[FnC80]

So after a month of using the TFP method on my new pool I've decided to go a bit more trouble free and install a stenner pump and tank for bleach additions and scrap the puck dispenser all together, which I've had turned off and adding bleach manually anyway. After monitoring chlorine loss, my daily additions of bleach is pretty stable at around 26oz a day. After reading the few recommendations on here I went ahead and ordered the 45MHP2 pump, which finally arrived today.

For my planned setup and install I'm thinking of either utilizing the currently plugged inlet on the heater or on the pump, I'm thinking the heater inlet might be better as it's after the filter but undecided at the moment. Here's a pic of both locations

As far as automation, I'm going to cut the plug off and install it on one of the aux inputs on my pro logic panel. I'll set it up to run the same times as the pump, or some subset depending on how long it needs to run to dose the proper amount of bleach. In calculating, max output is 3gpd, so in 24 hours it doses 0.125 gallon/hour. If the pump runs 8 hours that means 1 gallon is max or 100%. So if I only need 26oz, that means I set the pump at 20% as 26oz is 20% of 128oz. Or should I set it to dose all 26oz in a shorter time frame say 2 hours a day, instead of 8? I'm open to all thoughts and opinions on this as I know there are lots of people here who have a ton of knowledge to share. Thanks in advance.


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17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

 

[mknauss]

It would be preferred that the chlorine addition point be the last thing before the water returns to the pool. So an injection point in the piping after the heater is better.

Could you put what state, province, or country Manvel is in?

Take care.

 

[FnC80]

Wouldn't the addition to the beater drain valve be ok? Rather not install a new tap into pipe, but that's not out of the question. Given I live south of houston, I don't ever foresee having to winterize.

 

[mknauss]

Due to the increased chlorine concentration at the entry point of any kind of chlorinator (SWCG, puck, liquid) its entry point should be after all components. You could damage your heater internals with the concentrated chlorine.

Take care.

 

[Steve_in_C]

A fitting such as this after passing through pump, filter, heater, etc will allow you to insert the check valve from Stenner.

 

[FnC80]

I like the tee as pictured above but have yet to come across anything like that in the local plumbing supply store.


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17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

 

[CJadamec]

Like others have said you definitely do not want to put the chlorine into your pump or your heater fittings. It should be the last thing in the return line before the water heads back to the pool.


Google

I'm sure you can find one with the threaded middle port but its really easy to add a threaded insert.

 

[FnC80]

I'll check the plumbing store this week and see what I can't come up with. If adding the pvc tee, I'll cut the pipe after the water exits the heater for install. Once I turn off all equipment do all the lines drain back to the pool or does the side after the pump remain pressurized?


_________________________________________________________
17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

 

[CJadamec]

If your pump is above the water level in the pool once you turn your pump off there won't be any pressure in the system. There will be water left in the pipes so be ready for that.

Make sure to sch 40 fittings and not DVW fittings.

 

[FnC80]

Pump is above water level, I assumed there would be some water, but didn't want to cut into pressurized lines for obvious reasons. Appreciate the info. Hopefully can tackle this simple project this weekend given I can find the parts.


_________________________________________________________
17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

 

[csrpenfab]

My PB installed a Hayward puck feeder in line right before my return valve to the pool/spa. I was interested in a stenner pump install like yours, and I'm wondering if I could just drill/tap into the body of the puck feeder to install the Stenner input??? I was thinking that way I could avoid cutting into any other plumbing. Any ideas?

 

[FnC80]

In my research prior to ordering mine, I came across the mention of a possibly "dangerous" situation arising from the use of both pucks and the stenner. Granted since I take care of my pool 100% of the time now, no issues, but in the future or if I sell? So in playing it safe, I've decided to just add the stenner input upstream of the puck so I have the ability to run either or and prevent any potential dangers of adding bleach and pucks together.


_________________________________________________________
17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

 

[CJadamec]

If you want to add a stenner it should be injected into its own dedicated fitting.

Trichlor/dichlor and liquid chlorine don't play well together. When you mix them they will energetically react and generate heat and explosive gases. In small amounts you will have melted plastic, in larger amounts it will go boom.

For this reason we suggest you never put anything in a puck feeder other than pucks. Even small pieces of left over pucks are enough to cause a reaction.

 

[jmastron]

I'll check the plumbing store this week and see what I can't come up with. If adding the pvc tee, I'll cut the pipe after the water exits the heater for install. Once I turn off all equipment do all the lines drain back to the pool or does the side after the pump remain pressurized?


_________________________________________________________
17.7k gal, 98 ft perimeter, IG quartz, 3HP EcoStar VSP, 1.5HP TriStar Dual Speed, 725 sq ft SwimClear Cartridge, Rainbow chlorinator, Paramount clear O3, Pro Logic controller, 500k BTU heater, AquaVac 500, Spillover Spa, 3 sheer waterfalls, 3 bubblers.

This is what I used (2" slip tee with 3/4" threaded port): 2 Sch 40 PVC Reducing Tee - Soc x Fipt 402-248. I got that at Home Depot in-store, but can't find the link online right now. I then put a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer and the injection fitting into that.

 

[dsmith99]

I simply drilled into a PVC elbow and tapped threads into it using a 1/4" NPT tap. NPT stands for national pipe taper, these are the correct tapered pipe threads for the injector fitting. You can get the tap at any hardware store and the correct drill bit size (7/16") is stamped right on the tap. The bit and the tap will only cost five to six dollars total. You just need to drill straight into the fitting, then run the tap into the hole about 3/4 of the way to cut the threads. The PVC threads easily and does not require lubrication or any special procedures to cut the threads, very simple. Only run the tap in about 3/4 of the way or less, running the tap in too far will make the threads fit too loose due to the combination of being tapered threads into thin material.

You want to drill into a fitting because the material is about 2-3 times thicker than the actual pipe itself. The thicker material allows an extra couple threads to be cut. You could drill into a coupler or other fitting to achieve the same result. When you get your bit and tap just pick up an extra fitting that you can practice on first, these fittings are very inexpensive.

 

[CJadamec]

Next time when you tap a fitting drill thru when the fitting and pipe overlap. That way you get double wall thickness for the threads. In the case of sch40 PVC that gets you about .5" of PVC to put your threads in.

 

[Ted527]

I simply drilled into a PVC elbow and tapped threads into it using a 1/4" NPT tap. NPT stands for national pipe taper, these are the correct tapered pipe threads for the injector fitting. You can get the tap at any hardware store and the correct drill bit size (7/16") is stamped right on the tap. The bit and the tap will only cost five to six dollars total. You just need to drill straight into the fitting, then run the tap into the hole about 3/4 of the way to cut the threads. The PVC threads easily and does not require lubrication or any special procedures to cut the threads, very simple. Only run the tap in about 3/4 of the way or less, running the tap in too far will make the threads fit too loose due to the combination of being tapered threads into thin material.

You want to drill into a fitting because the material is about 2-3 times thicker than the actual pipe itself. The thicker material allows an extra couple threads to be cut. You could drill into a coupler or other fitting to achieve the same result. When you get your bit and tap just pick up an extra fitting that you can practice on first, these fittings are very inexpensive.

View attachment 69678

This would be the easiest way to do it. Pvc is very easy to tap.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

You might consider getting a larger tube to cut down on run times. I would be annoyed having to run my Stenner for 8 hours straight to pump a gallon of bleach. It is audible from inside our house when pumping.

My model pumps 17gpd and about two ounces a minute (as measured) makes bleach additions about 40 minutes in the summer and 10 minutes in the winter.

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Highly recommend the slip joint, I think I found mine at true value... if I had to wait for one I ordered online for a week, I still would.

 

[rphpool]

I did the same thing. You can purchase from Lowes. Practice on a piece of pvc , it is real easy just to do.

I simply drilled into a PVC elbow and tapped threads into it using a 1/4" NPT tap. NPT stands for national pipe taper, these are the correct tapered pipe threads for the injector fitting. You can get the tap at any hardware store and the correct drill bit size (7/16") is stamped right on the tap. The bit and the tap will only cost five to six dollars total. You just need to drill straight into the fitting, then run the tap into the hole about 3/4 of the way to cut the threads. The PVC threads easily and does not require lubrication or any special procedures to cut the threads, very simple. Only run the tap in about 3/4 of the way or less, running the tap in too far will make the threads fit too loose due to the combination of being tapered threads into thin material.

You want to drill into a fitting because the material is about 2-3 times thicker than the actual pipe itself. The thicker material allows an extra couple threads to be cut. You could drill into a coupler or other fitting to achieve the same result. When you get your bit and tap just pick up an extra fitting that you can practice on first, these fittings are very inexpensive.

View attachment 69678

 

[Steve_in_C]

I found my 2" slip x 1/2" FPT x 2" tee at Lowes.