New Pool Owner: Questions regarding Hayward Perflex DE filter

bmatcuk

Member
Jul 9, 2020
20
Pittsburgh, PA
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I just bought a house over the weekend with an in-ground pool. Unfortunately, it seems the previous owners did not maintain the pool for the last month (they moved out as soon as we had a contract signed and closing took 35 days). When I moved in, the water looked mostly ok - slightly cloudy, and a tiny bit of green where the walls meet the floor. Skimmer basket was full of leaves; filter pressure was around 25psi. I took a water sample to a local pool store on Saturday and they told me I basically needed to re-open the pool - no chlorine in the water, algae, phosphates (~2500 ppb), low pH, etc. I got all the chemicals and some detailed instructions - had the water retested on Tuesday and it's much better: phosphates down to ~900 ppb, chlorine, pH, and alkalinity are still low, but I think I have the chemical situation under control.

The filter, though... I can't get the pressure to come down. Bumping only works for, like, half an hour. So, I tried "backwashing" - found a video on youtube, looked easy enough. However, the video was for an above-ground pool: turn off pump, bump, open drain, open air valve, allow tank to drain completely, close drain/air, repeat. This resulted in a lot of DE draining into the pool since only half of the water drained through the drain valve - the rest went back through the pump (that was turned off) and into the pool since the pool is lower than the filter 😢 Insult to injury: my drain valve is now leaky - I've temporarily remedied with a screw-in plug with o-ring. It still drips slowly, though. It was difficult to get it to open, so, maybe I broke something when I opened it?

Realizing I screwed that up, I did my best to remedy (vacuumed all the DE in the pool and added some more DE through the skimmer to replace what actually did drain). At the suggestion of a pool-store employee, I tried cleaning the filter next: disassembled the unit, hosed off the fingers, soaked in a bucket with Caribbean Blue All-in-One Filter Cleaner + water for ~2 hours, hosed off again, reassembled, and added DE. That only helped for a couple hours and now I have a small leak where the top of the filter connects to the filter tank, and once a day I notice the accumulation of what I assume to be DE around the edges at the bottom of the pool 😢 Bumping helps bring the pressure down for an hour or two, so, that's an improvement.

Yesterday, I tried backwashing again. This time, I followed a procedure from a pool-store employee: turn off pump, bump, open drain, run pump until water is clear, turn off pump, close drain, turn on pump until water jets in pool are normal, repeat. I did this several times and then added more DE. That seemed to really help... pressure around 10-12, at least for 4ish hours. Was around ~25 psi before bed (bumping brought it down), and around 28 psi when I woke up this morning - the highest its ever been - basically no water flowing out of the jets at all 😢

I get that part of it is that the filter is doing it's job and removing all of the stuff that was in the pool, and that's causing it to clog up. But, is there light at the end of the tunnel? I can't babysit this thing 24/7 - I have to sleep, I have to work, I have to unpack, I have to buy furniture, etc. I can't bump this thing every half hour and backwash it every Dang day. Will it ever just run? I spent all weekend and every evening since messing with the pool. I go to bed every night worrying that tonight will be the night the pump explodes because the pressure is too high. I've got multiple leaks in the filter now, my driveway is stained white from draining the filter onto it (I'm hoping rain will clear that up!), and the pressure is getting worse.

I've scheduled some professional help, but earliest they can come is the 22nd. What can I do to manage in the meantime? What is the actual, correct procedure for backwashing? How about cleaning? Am I going to have to go through all this Darn again in the spring when I open the pool?

/sigh

Ok, one more easier question about chlorine: my test strips say free and total chlorine is high, but the water tests in the store say it's low - the difference is a factor of 10: strips say 3, in-store test says 0.3. I saw suggested elsewhere that I should ditch the strips in favor of a liquid test kit - I'll get on that! But I'm wondering: is there some reason there'd be such a disparity? Am I using the wrong kind of test? Or the wrong kind of chlorine? Or maybe the strips are just bad (they were left behind by the previous owners)?

Sorry for the long post - I really appreciate any help and advice!
 
Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

A DE filter is great at filtering, but a real pain when dealing with an algae swamp like you have. It may be wise to remove the grids from the filter and just circulate the water until you have the proper test kit and method to clear the pool.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
I have a filter like yours and it should not be hitting max pressure that quickly if your water is only slightly cloudy. It also seemed you are missing a few steps in your back washing process. How much DE did you add after you washed the fingers? Maintaining the filter is not difficult but it's too much for me to spell out in an email. If you want post a response here or PM me and I'll walk you through the process. I've had a Haywood filter like yours for 20 years now.
 
Do you know what's in the cleaner you used on the fingers? I couldn't find the contents online. Typically, I use muriatic acid to clean my filter fingers once a season. When the pressure goes up you bump. If it stays up after bumping you back wash the filter and add new DE. The amount you add is critical. If the pressure goes right back up the filter fingers are clogged. Strip the filter down, wash out the DE from the filter assembly and finger assembly. Stick the filter fingers in a bucket of water/muriatic acid solution and wait. Pull the filter assembly out of the bucket and rinse. Put it all back together and add DE.

Muriatic acid needs to be handled with care during the process. Like I said earlier, PM me and I'll walk you through the process. You also need to get a better test kit as suggested above. My first 10 years with a pool following pool store advice was one problem after another. The next ten years following the advice here has been a walk in the park in comparison. My wife went from wanting the pool gone to singing my praises on how nice it looks.
 
Thanks @mknauss... as I said, I think I've got the chemicals worked out, but I'll check into that test kit.

@DorsalSpine: I would love if you could walk me through the process! This last time I backwashed, I added about 5lbs of DE. The label on the filter says it should have 6lbs, but I read elsewhere that you should only add about 80% after backwashing since some DE will remain.
 
I thought that filter held 7 pounds but yours may be smaller than mine. I'm headed out for a meeting and lunch in a few minutes. I think you can PM me by clicking on my user name here. Either send me a phone number and/or I'll send you one when I get back to the office. You really need a better test kit. It's the best advice you can get from this forum.
 
I think I've got the chemicals worked out, but I'll check into that test kit

I don't think you do have the chemicals worked out. Your chlorine level is almost certainly too low and it's allowing a low level algae problem to fester, which is continually clogging your super-efficient filter. That what stuff you see in the pool is also probably not DE, but DA: dead algae.

Been there, done that with a DE filter.

You need to go back up and read mknauss' advice. You need a proper test kit and need to follow the SLAM process to beat the algae, then your filter will run like a champ.
 

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You might be able to find a Taylor kit locally. However, you need to make sure it has the FAS/DPD test as part of the kit. That is the important part. Don't forget to call again. I don't mind, I was just at lunch the first time. I had a Taylor kit that lacked the FAS/DPD. I added the FAS and new reagents from TF-Test kits. The TF 100 was mentioned above.
 
Purchased a TF kit last night - hopefully won't take long to get here. In the meantime, I'm just going to babysit the filter during the day (luckily I work from home) and turn it off at night - no sense leaving it on overnight since the water flow drops to near zero after about 2 hours and the pump just strains.
 
When backwashing my filter, would it be possible to drain into something like a garbage can? The layout of my house + pool prevent me from running a hose to a convenient place - best I can do is drain onto my driveway. If I could drain into a garbage can (with wheels), I could just roll it behind my property and dump it back there where it won't hurt anything.

I would need to angle the can so that it is level or lower with my filter's drain, so, I suppose that could pose a problem... just thinking things through =)
 
Ok, I think I’ve finally got the filter under control... my dad and I disassembled it and cleaned it over the weekend - pressure has been holding steady around 12 psi for a couple days now, so, that’s a big load off my shoulders...

Got my tf test kit, too - numbers aren’t great:

FC: 3.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 150
CH: 550
CYA: at least 100

However, I also received the “standards” and tested those... numbers aren’t quite right:

TA: 130 (should be 100)
CH: 225 (should be 200)
CYA: 30, maybe lower (should be 50 but the dot was clearly visible at 50 - even at 30 I could still make it out a little)

Is it normal for the standards to be a little off? User error? Or could it be that the test kit got ruined? Unfortunately, the mailman left the package between my door and glass storm door, in direct sunlight, where it stayed for at least half an hour on one of the hottest days on record - must have been at least 100F between my door and storm door, probably higher =(

But, anyway, assuming the results are close enough to start making plans, I know I need to drain some water to fix CYA - do you guys think I can make it through the rest of the season? I’ll need to drain some water anyway when I close the pool, right?
 
Train your eyes on the CYA standard as to what the 50 ppm looks like. That test can be difficult at the start.
The other two are spot on. Make sure you have the reagent bottle vertical, you do not squeeze the bottle. The reagent should naturally form and drop off the tip.

100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.

Add chlorine. With a high CYA, you need to keep 10+ ppm FC until you determine how much water you need to drain.
 
I've been where you are with a CYA over 200. Trying to keep your water clean at that level is next to impossible over the long term. You are probably looking at least a 50% water change to get the CYA to a manageable number. Do the diluted water test and we can go from there. CYA typically degrades over the winter so if we can get you to a manageable number you will have an easier time next year. A high CYA level and white water mold is what brought me to TFP.

I typically don't remove enough water when I winterize to have much of an effect on the CYA level so I wouldn't consider that as part of your water exchange.
 

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