New Pool, odd results?

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,426
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When your pH reaches 7.8 -8, lower it to 7.2.

With your fill water being high in TA, you will continually be doing that from April to October.
 

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
Just curious how did you get 3572 for your salt reading? Never mind I just read you have a meter.
I have a problem with liking tools, I bought the salinity meter to confirm the Taylor. Having a hard time justifying keeping it when it's several times more extensive than the Taylor. Hopefully won't need to test for salt as often once I get this figured out.
 
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NowintersinAZ

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2020
177
Mesa, AZ
Pool Size
7560
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I have a problem with liking tools, I bought the salinity meter to confirm the Taylor. Having a hard time justifying keeping it when it's several times more extensive than the Taylor. Hopefully won't need to test for salt as often once I get this figured out.
Depending on over flow from rain and splash out from swimmers you may not need to check salt levels. It's just my wife and I so I don't really ever check ours.
 

NowintersinAZ

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2020
177
Mesa, AZ
Pool Size
7560
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
So I found an inspection from a pool company from a few weeks ago that mentioned 6 bags (40lbs each) of salt, so there's another piece of the puzzle. Based on the app 800 ppm -> 3000 ppm would be... 239 lbs of salt.
Where you charged for these bags or was it just mentioned in the inspection report? If you were charged for 6 bags a few weeks ago and your salt was 800 that seems a bit suspect. Also that would explain the need for pucks, if there was no salt in the pool, which I am sure they charged you for. No salt no chlorine. Just something that stuck out when you were describing your situation.
 

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
Where you charged for these bags or was it just mentioned in the inspection report? If you were charged for 6 bags a few weeks ago and your salt was 800 that seems a bit suspect. Also that would explain the need for pucks, if there was no salt in the pool, which I am sure they charged you for. No salt no chlorine. Just something that stuck out when you were describing your situation.
Nothing was charged, those were recommendations, but we decided that we were going to give taking care of the pool a shot.

When I first got to the pool the swg was on standby and the pucks were in the pool. Looking back on it perhaps they turned the swg to standby because it was caked with deposits and there wasn't any salt in the pool.
 
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mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,426
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Add liquid chlorine to raise to target level for your CYA. Then set SWCG to generate 4 ppm FC per day. Test daily to see if you need to raise or lower that FC generation.
 

jeremycrook

Gold Supporter
Sep 26, 2016
203
OKLAHOMA CITY / OK
We have about the same size pool, if I leave the SWG on 100% I will have a chlorine reading of 15-20 ppm the next day. Turn on the SWG and crack open the pipe directly downstream of the SWG and take 10 ml of the water dripping out of the pipe you cracked and test that. It should read substantially higher than your current pools chlorine levels, that will determine if the SWG is working. My Jandy SWG will not operate @ low levels of salt, it immediately gives me an error. Double check your CYA, it's the most difficult test IMO to get correct. If the CYA is low, the SWG will have a difficult time keeping up with the chlorine loss...
 

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
We have about the same size pool, if I leave the SWG on 100% I will have a chlorine reading of 15-20 ppm the next day. Turn on the SWG and crack open the pipe directly downstream of the SWG and take 10 ml of the water dripping out of the pipe you cracked and test that. It should read substantially higher than your current pools chlorine levels, that will determine if the SWG is working. My Jandy SWG will not operate @ low levels of salt, it immediately gives me an error. Double check your CYA, it's the most difficult test IMO to get correct. If the CYA is low, the SWG will have a difficult time keeping up with the chlorine loss...

It looks like the SWG is working, but when I took a sample directly from the return while the truclear was on boost I only got a 5 ppm reading, so that might be it's max level. The lowest we dipped was 3 ppm fc and then it recovered to 5 ppm, and maxing out to 5.5 ppm before dropping to 4.4-5 ppm today. So it is definitely doing something, but might not be enough. On the phone now with Jandy...197 min wait time...

There was never a low salt alarm that I was aware of, but it likely wasn't doing anything when the salt was down below 1000 ppm.

The CYA is defiantely a very subjective test, but it's not on the low end, it's at best 70-80, but appears more likely at 85.
 
Last edited:

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
Jandy wasn't kidding when it was at least 197 minutes. I called around noon and got a call back at around 5pm. They had a few suggestions. They mentioned I should reduce my pump time, this wasn't surprising as the pump was turning over the pool 4 times over the period of 9 hours in the evening/early morning. So they suggested perhaps 2 hours at high speed, then the remaining time at low speed to finish turning over the pool twice total. They also noted that the SWG, and filters works best at 40-50 GPM, and also suggested I should bring the SWG from 100% down to 80%. They were a bit confused on why the SWG had not given an alert when salt had dropped so low.

Last thing I remember them mentioning was that a FC of 3 was likely enough. Which has me a bit confused, as the troublefreepool chart has FC closer 6 with a CYA at 80.

With this suggestion, I'll be dialing the SWG back to 80%. I'll run at 120 GPM for 2 hours, and then 40 GPM for 5 hrs. This should also reduce the electricity bill a bit. We'll have to see what the SWG produces at 80% at 40 GPM.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,426
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
First, turnover is a myth. You run the pump, in your case, for two reasons. First is to create chlorine with the SWCG, second is to skim the surface.
That flow rate is crazy high. If you like to use that much electricity, go for it. But there is no way you need that rate to close the flow switch on the SWCG or skim the surface of your pool.
The TFP FC levels are based on the FC/CYA ratio. What they told you is the standard industry same FC level no matter what your CYA.
 

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
First, turnover is a myth. You run the pump, in your case, for two reasons. First is to create chlorine with the SWCG, second is to skim the surface.
That flow rate is crazy high. If you like to use that much electricity, go for it. But there is no way you need that rate to close the flow switch on the SWCG or skim the surface of your pool.
The TFP FC levels are based on the FC/CYA ratio. What they told you is the standard industry same FC level no matter what your CYA.

I figured the current schedule was crazy high, but I wasn't going to change too many variables until I got the FC nailed down.

Since jandy notes that the SWG is most efficient at 40-50 GPM and running at a lower gpm for a longer period of time will save on electricity I'll go ahead and modify it tomorrow.

Does my modified schedule look like an ok starting point? Also should I only be skimming the surface? I tend to run half and half in terms of the skimmer and vacuum.
 

bubbles^2

Well-known member
Jul 2, 2021
46
Arizona
Modified the pump schedule to 120 gpm for 2 hours morning/afternoon followed by 40 gpm for 2 hours. Pool school notes 8 hours if the pump is variable, but I figure we'll start at 4 and work our way up depending on if I need more FC, or if the pool needs a bit more time to be clean.
 

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