New Pool build but the filter pressure is high.

[moore887]

Hi all,

I have a new customer that may (or may not) have an issue with his pool setup. I apologize for not getting a photo of the actual pool but here's the equipment pad. The pool has an attached spa with spill to pool. Total volume is 10,000 gallons and there are two deck jets on the outer edge of the pool (same side) 12 feet apart controlled by the ball valves nearest the bottom of the photo (currently turned off). The ball valve farthest away on the return side is for the spa and I have the pool return all the way open. The Jandy valve closest can divert all return to the spa. Customer bought the heater himself just before pool completion (two months ago) and the pool builder agreed to plumb it in. There is no diverter valve or check valve associated with the heater so water is always flowing through it. There's a chlorine feeder there too, barely visible behind the J box.

Here's the problem: I removed the cartridge from the filter. It was pretty gummed up. I have it soaking at the side of my house in a trash can full of detergent to see if I can get the slime out of it. No biggie if we have to drop in a new pleatco, probably better than the original anyway. Starting pressure on prime (3450 rpm on the v-speed) is 20 psi. I haven't seen a pool run that high unless there was something wrong or a big solar lift. The deck jets are off balance. you have to open the second one all the way and barely open the first one to get them both at the same height. When the spa is open on it's own (no return or drain to pool and no air blower on) there is a strong jet of bubbles that come from the returns into the spa continuously. I didn't think there would be air going back to the spa unless the blower was on (and that would be a separate circuit) but I stand to be corrected.

Customer contacted the builder with these concerns and was told that the pump is not strong enough to run the setup he has. If he wants the spa and the deck jets running the pump must be upgraded. He must also install automation so that he can turn on the deck jets and have them running properly but at this time there is no fault with the current build. It will cost almost $5k for the conversion.

I've advised the customer to get an independent certified pool inspector and put a valve in so that he can divert the heater flow and that may give him more pressure to where he wants it to go. What say you guys?

 

[Jimrahbe]

887,

So how does it run without the cartridge? If you have some kind of "slime" on the cartridge I think it would be best to install a new one..

Any idea why Florida pool builder use such dinky filters?

I like your idea of a heater by pass

I'd want to check the eyeball sizes on the returns.

I would never use a SuperFlo VS on a pool with a spa and heater..

Let's see what our other members have to say...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

You check that the pressure gauge goes to 0 when the pump is off?

The heater looks like a Heat Pump. HPs cause a lot of restriction and higher pressure. Installing the heater bypass will tell you if that is the cause of the pressure.

 

[moore887]

Thanks Jim. You raise some interesting points. I will be out there this morning putting that cartridge back in. At the very least I will get the "startup" finished with that filter and then put a new one in. The mind boggles about the size of the cartridge filters. I have another new pool that's bigger than that one with a full Jandy automation complete with a pentair UV system and the filter is HALF the size of the one pictured above. I guess a penny saved...

The eyeball sizes of the returns look smaller than mine. There's one on the spa which the threads are broken on and it just spins around. The builder is supposed to replace that one.

Why would you not use a a superflo vs on a pool with a spa and a heater? That seems to be the pump of choice for this particular builder. Is it not the pentair equivalent of mine (see sig)?

Allen, would you believe I didn't look at the gauge when the pump was off?!! I get where you are coming from with the heatpump and pressure. However, mine and my neighbor's one give a 3psi rise when we open the valve to go into the heater. 20psi and no filter is mind blowing.

One thing is for sure, is he is not going to get any joy from the builder. The guy that builds these houses uses one pool company (that he has a stake in) and they don't build pools for anyone else.

I think I will suggest that the owner gets Leslies to put in the Jandy 3 way and a check valve on the heater and then start searching for a CPI if that doesn't help.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Dave,

When using a single speed pump it is important to match the pump's HP with the job it has to do.. With a VS pump, you just adjust the pump's HP to fit the job. The larger the pump the slower you can run it and still move the same amount of water, when compared to a smaller VS pump. If you are going to run the pump at 3450, you may as well have a single speed pump.. Uses just as much electricity and just as noisy.

The smaller the eyeballs the higher the filter pressure.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[moore887]

Just a quick update on this.. I couldn't take photos of the pool because the builder was there today working on it. They took off one of the returns outlets into the spa and chunks of plaster came out. I put the cartridge back in but they took it out again and said it was shot and adding to the problem. Shame the cartridge is only 3 months old. I asked if they would be interested in putting in a 3 way and check valve on the heat pump but they refused saying it was only necessary on a copper core heater and not a titanium core. More on Friday!