New Pool and Looking Forward to Keeping it Swimmable Year-round

[kevinrossen]

Hi Everyone,

We just finished construction on our new in-ground pool in February 2023! It's a gunite/plaster pool with 13k gallons, a spa, two waterfalls, and a rock slide! We've already gotten quite a bit of use in the pool with the family and some friends. Living in the Dallas, TX area helps make swimming a nearly year-round activity. I'm a geek at heart and love learning new things, so I'm enjoying the process of figuring out the right steps to take to ensure the pool's chemicals and balance stay within the ranges that they should be. I already have a Taylor Test kit and it feels kinda like a little kid's chemistry play kit!!!

Anyway, I'm looking forward to learning from others when I face problems and enjoying the process of maintaining our pool!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

You may also want to get the Poolmath app.

 

[dfwnoob]

Hi @kevinrossen , welcome to TFP!

Just to be sure, there are lots of Taylor test kits but only one that works out-of-the-box for our care methods. Do you know which one you have, specifically? The pool looks great! Be sure to fill out your signature with your equipment when you get the chance, it makes things a lot easier if you have any questions in the future.

 

[kevinrossen]

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

You may also want to get the Poolmath app.

Just got the PoolMath app and got the annual subscription!

 

[kevinrossen]

Hi @kevinrossen , welcome to TFP!

Just to be sure, there are lots of Taylor test kits but only one that works out-of-the-box for our care methods. Do you know which one you have, specifically? The pool looks great! Be sure to fill out your signature with your equipment when you get the chance, it makes things a lot easier if you have any questions in the future.

Technically it's a Leslie's Kit, but it looks like they just white label test from Taylor as all the parts and instructions as well. It's the Total Poolcare DPD Test Kit that I can test for FC, CC, pH, Acid Dead, Base Demand, TA, CH, and CYA. I'll probably pick up a non-Leslie's kit at some point in the near future.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

You need to add the missing element that's most important- the FAS-DPD FC/CC at high level tester.

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

That's missing from your kit.
I don't think many bother with that acid demand test?

 

[kevinrossen]

You need to add the missing element that's most important- the FAS-DPD FC/CC at high level tester.

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

That's missing from your kit.
I don't think many bother with that acid demand test?

The kit I have does have the free chlorine test in it. Is that what is in that test kit you linked to? Also, I've got a UV/Ozone treatment system, so I'm aiming to keep the chlorine levels around 1 ppm based on what I've researched online. Not sure if that's relevant.

 

[dfwnoob]

Technically it's a Leslie's Kit, but it looks like they just white label test from Taylor as all the parts and instructions as well. It's the Total Poolcare DPD Test Kit that I can test for FC, CC, pH, Acid Dead, Base Demand, TA, CH, and CYA. I'll probably pick up a non-Leslie's kit at some point in the near future.

That's a rebranded Taylor K2005, which luckily already has 97% of what you need. As @YippeeSkippy pointed out, you'll need the FAS/DPD chlorine test from either the TFTestkits link above or purchase the Taylor K1515-A (same thing but the TFTestkits model gives more reagent). The FAS/DPD and DPD chlorine tests are two different things.

Also highly recommend the Smartstir/SpeedStir. It makes your life so much easier.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Also, I've got a UV/Ozone treatment system, so I'm aiming to keep the chlorine levels around 1 ppm based on what I've researched online. Not sure if that's relevant.

Ohmy. Don'tchall get enough free UV there in Tejas from the sun?

The ozone light is so small and undersized, when it runs out most folks don't even notice any difference in their pool chemistry.
Keeping your FC that low is untenable in Texas. You need to understand the FC/CYA relationship and the need for both at higher levels than a FC of 1.
Pool Care Basics

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kevinrossen]

Ohmy. Don'tchall get enough free UV there in Tejas from the sun?

The ozone light is so small and undersized, when it runs out most folks don't even notice any difference in their pool chemistry.
Keeping your FC that low is untenable in Texas. You need to understand the FC/CYA relationship and the need for both at higher levels than a FC of 1.
Pool Care Basics

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for the feedback. I'm very early in my learning of taking care of my pool, so I'll definitely be reading as much as I can from reliable sources. I haven't taken the Pool School classes from TFP yet, but will very soon. The reason I was aiming for 1 FC was based on what I have read from the WHO on using lower chlorine when combined with UV treatment. I'm not sure how much this article has been tested in real world environments.

 

[kevinrossen]

That's a rebranded Taylor K2005, which luckily already has 97% of what you need. As @YippeeSkippy pointed out, you'll need the FAS/DPD chlorine test from either the TFTestkits link above or purchase the Taylor K1515-A (same thing but the TFTestkits model gives more reagent). The FAS/DPD and DPD chlorine tests are two different things.

Also highly recommend the Smartstir/SpeedStir. It makes your life so much easier.

Ordered the kit and the SpeedStir. Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

I'm not sure how much this article has been tested in real world environments.

We've met 1000 or more folks who came here in fustration when it didn't work like they said.

@dfwnoob so eloquently put it recently that there are three government approved sanitation methods for residential pools. 3. Period. Chlorine, Bromine and Baqua. Anything else is a secondary method and the primary method must be adhered to at all times. If you have to fully sanitize the old fashioned way anyway, why bother in the first place ?

And Welcome !!!! Check the member counter at the bottom of the page. It's well over a third of a million folks and it's safe to say we've been to a few rodeos. We got you.

 

[dfwnoob]

As far as pools go, Ozone kind of has a place in large commercial pool installs with very high bather loads as a supplemental oxidation method using a very expensive, industrial grade ozone system. And mostly it's used because of state/local regulations regarding how public pools must be managed (e.g. they state a specific free chlorine range that cannot be exceeded) so ozone and it's (limited) residual properties can play a role here. Ozone is considered an air contaminant by the EPA, and thus, also has a maximum value that limits it's usability. UV, on the other hand, is not residual at all. In other words, only the water getting hit with the UV light is actively being sanitized. Then it goes right back into the "dirty" pool again. There is nothing that can possibly be done in a typical residential pool install that makes either of these systems worthwhile. They're very good for lining the pockets of pool equipment manufacturers and builders, though.

The WHO article snippet posted also doesn't factor in the role that CYA plays in the FC/CYA ratio: it's impossible to determine a correct FC level without also knowing the CYA level. "Lower free chlorine concentrations (0.5mg/l or less) will be adequate.." Says who? What if there's 50 PPM of CYA in there? There's no chance that that .5 ppm (if my math is right, they come out to about the same between mg/L and PPM) FC is doing jack with any kind of CYA level, regardless of how much UV you're beaming at it. And the sun will always give you way, way, WAY more UV than your little UV bulb is capable of.

Do some searches on the forum for "UV" and "ozone". Both have been pretty well covered over the last decade or so, with the science to back it up.

 

[dfwnoob]

One slight addition for UV.. it's useful in indoor pool installs where there is no natural UV to burn off the CC, or hot tubs that spend most of their life covered. Outside of that, also understand that UV will be zapping the FC in your water as well, which seems a bit counterproductive.

 

[mknauss]

A good read.

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kevinrossen]

As far as pools go, Ozone kind of has a place in large commercial pool installs with very high bather loads as a supplemental oxidation method using a very expensive, industrial grade ozone system. And mostly it's used because of state/local regulations regarding how public pools must be managed (e.g. they state a specific free chlorine range that cannot be exceeded) so ozone and it's (limited) residual properties can play a role here. Ozone is considered an air contaminant by the EPA, and thus, also has a maximum value that limits it's usability. UV, on the other hand, is not residual at all. In other words, only the water getting hit with the UV light is actively being sanitized. Then it goes right back into the "dirty" pool again. There is nothing that can possibly be done in a typical residential pool install that makes either of these systems worthwhile. They're very good for lining the pockets of pool equipment manufacturers and builders, though.

The WHO article snippet posted also doesn't factor in the role that CYA plays in the FC/CYA ratio: it's impossible to determine a correct FC level without also knowing the CYA level. "Lower free chlorine concentrations (0.5mg/l or less) will be adequate.." Says who? What if there's 50 PPM of CYA in there? There's no chance that that .5 ppm (if my math is right, they come out to about the same between mg/L and PPM) FC is doing jack with any kind of CYA level, regardless of how much UV you're beaming at it. And the sun will always give you way, way, WAY more UV than your little UV bulb is capable of.

Do some searches on the forum for "UV" and "ozone". Both have been pretty well covered over the last decade or so, with the science to back it up.

Very helpful information, thank you! Too bad I didn't know this before construction!

 

[Newdude]

Too bad I didn't know this before construction!

They could have done WAY worse to you. Like convince you to use silky smooth Baqua instead of chlorine. It costs a few times more per season than the UV, and removing it is a fight to the death.

 

[reggiehammond]

No better time than very-early Spring to rip out the UV/Ozone and sell it on FB marketplace.
You need a salt water chlorine generator and you need it quick! There's no easier way for N Texas pool care that embraces the trouble free mentality. Depending on your fill water source, you'll just need to buy Muriatic Acid to control pH. Otherwise, you won't touch anything else for almost the entire rest of the year.

Required reading to understand CYA and FC and to know where your FC levels need to always be: Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship Explained

 

[SecoSteve]

Hey Kevin. You're lucky you found TFP. There's so much information on this site to help you. I was in the same situation as you, but, I was lucky enough to have found TFP during our build. There were some things that I wish I knew before signing our contract. For example. My old school "knowledge" had me convinced that I should use the Nature2 mineral pack. I had always used it on our previous pool, thinking it was the right thing to do. But, after reading things here and talking to people here, I now know to leave the mineral pack out.

You have an important decision to make now. You can either fully follow the TFP method, or continue to care for your pool the way the pool builder "taught" you. You can't do both. Picking and choosing things from both methods will not work. Keeping your Chlorine levels as low as you have mentioned is a recipe for disaster. Your pool will look good for a while, but eventually, you'll start to see some cloudiness, and then algae will take over. I've seen it in my friends and neighbors pools. They think Leslie's will help them. But, all Leslie's will do is sell you things that will help temporarily, but make things worse in the long run. And happily take your money.

You probably don't want to take any drastic measures now, such as adding a Salt Water Generator, or ripping out your UV/Ozone system, but for sure, you should ASAP, get your Chlorine levels up to levels found on the Chlorine/CYA chart. Best of luck with your new pool!!

 

[wireform]

Leslie's will sell you anything and all that you'll pay for but won't get you out of the rut forever. Some of this, some of that and then repeat......emptying your wallet. It's the TFP way or otherwise but the two don't mix very well. Had a customer with a brand new 25k gallon pool two years ago with a very expensive UV /OZONE system that he unfortunately paid for in his very expensive build. First year he was fighting me and insisted to use it but every phone call from him had something to do with the water green color. The next year I said it's me or the fancy expensive UV/OZONE equipment but I won't service.... I pulled the fuse from it so it can't be powered and wallah all of a sudden the water balance came around. Last year it was a SWCG and that's when he became a believer.