New Member/Pool owner

surferboricua

Active member
Apr 25, 2022
27
Ocala/FL
Pool Size
8700
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Greetings. I just came by to introduce myself. New member and pool owner. Had pool built with new construction home, around Jan 2022. Details in the signature. I started out with Pinch a Penny maintenance service, but the more I educate myself about pool care I am finding to be disappointed with Pinch A Penny's service and am getting ready to cancel them. I started my pool education mostly with swimuniversity.com. While very informative, the site and material left me with a lot of questions. I am more of a science of things kind of person, and their material is geared more towards one size fits all dumbed down, in my opinion. I currently have been testing my chemistry with Aquacheck 7 test strips (I know...), but a TF-100 test kit is in the mail, should arrive Monday.

I have been reading TF Pool School material and have much more to read, but in the immediate I had some questions maybe you can help me with.

1) Because of builder delays, my pool when first built, was left running with high pH for a few weeks, before we were able to move in, and get pH under "control". This caused scale to build up on the water line tile "more noticeable" and it feels like on the entire plaster surface as well, as everything in the pool feels rough... What can I do/use, to remove/smooth all scale and roughness of the plaster out?

2)I have a Pentair Dorado suction cleaner, it had always been in the water, but moving very slowly. I read the manual and found that the right way of calibrating suction with their pressure control thingy and such. So I had the cleaner at the right suction rate, moving at the right pace, and it now climbs the walls and everything. My question with the cleaner is, can I keep it out of the water most of the time, and just drop it once or twice a week for the 6 hours the manual indicates? The manual doesn't indicate a schedule for using it, it just mentions that it should cover the entire surface of the pool in a 6 hour period. So, yeah, can I just keep it most of the time out of the pool and just drop it in once or twice a week for 6 hours? Or should I keep in the water?

I am sure more questions will come up, as I receive the TF100 test kit and are able to test the water chemistry the right way.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hey there Surfer 🏄‍♂️
Welcome to Trouble Free Pools. Our method has been proven by hundreds of thousands pools, and we have chemists and pool pro endorse and use our methods.

Have you discovered PoolMath yet? PoolMath can help you maintain your CSI and a slightly negative CSI helps slowly burn away scale. There are also Scale Removers, but I've never used one so can't comment on them more than that. My only concern is that while new pools should be *slightly* positive CSI during the first 30 days, your very high pH (normal for new plaster) is usually brought down repeatedly with Muriatic Acid.

When you get your test kit please run a full panel for us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt


Maddie ☮️
 
Hey there Surfer 🏄‍♂️
Welcome to Trouble Free Pools. Our method has been proven by hundreds of thousands pools, and we have chemists and pool pro endorse and use our methods.

Have you discovered PoolMath yet? PoolMath can help you maintain your CSI and a slightly negative CSI helps slowly burn away scale. There are also Scale Removers, but I've never used one so can't comment on them more than that. My only concern is that while new pools should be *slightly* positive CSI during the first 30 days, your very high pH (normal for new plaster) is usually brought down repeatedly with Muriatic Acid.

When you get your test kit please run a full panel for us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt


Maddie ☮️
Hey there Skippy. I will surely post once the test kit arrives. I have been using PoolMath app, but recording results as per the test strips I currently have. Thanks for your feedback, sounds like I need to keep constant eye on that PH.
 
TF-100 came in yesterday. Did my first testing today. Here are the results…

FC 8.5
CC 0.0
pH 7.5
TA 120
CH 500
CYA 20
Salt 3000

I went ahead and lowered my SWG IC40 from 60% to 40% to get that FC down a bit. Plan to run to Lowes later today to get chlorine stabilizer to raise CYA per Pool Math levels. Also, I will very likely be adding some muriatic acid to lower the pH a bit, bring that TA down little by little. I have a waterfall so it helps with the TA lowering process per Pool School.

Any suggestions, recommendations? Is my plan somewhat ok?
 
You are large and in charge.
Yes get your CYA up to 40-50 then track your FC daily loss. Slowly raise CYA to find your pools sweet spot but don't over dose. Be sure to keep your FC on the high side of your target range FC/CYA Levels and well above the minimum. Monitor your CSI in pool Math for proper balance. :cheers:
 
Being in Florida your frequent rains often require you to lower the level of your pool, right?? To decrease your calcium level a bit you could drop the level ahead of expected heavy rains and let the rain refill you. That rain water would be calcium free.
Although you do lose some stabilizer and Chlorine too, you can top those up PRN.

Maddie :flower:
 
You are large and in charge.
Yes get your CYA up to 40-50 then track your FC daily loss. Slowly raise CYA to find your pools sweet spot but don't over dose. Be sure to keep your FC on the high side of your target range FC/CYA Levels and well above the minimum. Monitor your CSI in pool Math for proper balance. :cheers:
Got it. Thanks.
 
Being in Florida your frequent rains often require you to lower the level of your pool, right?? To decrease your calcium level a bit you could drop the level ahead of expected heavy rains and let the rain refill you. That rain water would be calcium free.
Although you do lose some stabilizer and Chlorine too, you can top those up PRN.

Maddie :flower:
Makes sense. For when no rain and need to add water, is a water run through water softener ok to put on the pool?
 

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