It might, but pure white cotton (and old sock or tshirt) is most effective
New member - johntniman
- Thread starter johntafshar
- Start date
Marty, John,
Yeah, I apologize for jumping in without reading the whole thread. Marty, your background knowledge of the water source along with John's observation of no staining on the skimmer sock probably eliminates iron.
So, suspended green in a pool , to my knowledge, is the result of either algae or iron.....copper doesn't manifest like that. Looks like you are back to treating for algae but, like Marty, I am puzzled by your lack of progress. Your FC loss overnight certainly indicates algae as well but I wish your pool would hurry up and start changing color!!!
Stay the course.........I can really think of no other option.
Yeah, I apologize for jumping in without reading the whole thread. Marty, your background knowledge of the water source along with John's observation of no staining on the skimmer sock probably eliminates iron.
So, suspended green in a pool , to my knowledge, is the result of either algae or iron.....copper doesn't manifest like that. Looks like you are back to treating for algae but, like Marty, I am puzzled by your lack of progress. Your FC loss overnight certainly indicates algae as well but I wish your pool would hurry up and start changing color!!!
Stay the course.........I can really think of no other option.
Do you think it's likely the ZeoSand isn't filtering enough / should I replace with regular sand? I would think the chlorine would kill the algae even if the filter isn't working properly (as if it were on recirculate basically) but that's just my intuition.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From what I have read on Zeosand it is not hampering your ability to get rid of the green. It may not filter all that well, at least according to some members, but that is not your current issue.
This should turn to grey/blue color soon. We hope.
This should turn to grey/blue color soon. We hope.
I wonder about the "sludge" talked about in reference to when he pulled the robot out of the pool. Can you share a little more info about that please. What did it look like? Was it solid?
This will not be fun but do you have a turkey baster? If you can handle it you could get in the pool in the shallow end and put the baster so it is just above the pool floor and suck up some of the stuff so we can see just how thick it is.
Another idea would be to throw the cleaner in the deep end and let it run a little bit then pull it up and show us what it finds down there.
This will not be fun but do you have a turkey baster? If you can handle it you could get in the pool in the shallow end and put the baster so it is just above the pool floor and suck up some of the stuff so we can see just how thick it is.
Another idea would be to throw the cleaner in the deep end and let it run a little bit then pull it up and show us what it finds down there.
It was algae, so it was solid in a not-liquid sense, but not dense like rocks or anything. Maybe the consistency of mud?
I retested a few minutes ago and the FC was down to 15, so I decided to throw the Dolphin in again to vacuum / brush / agitate things. When it finishes its cycle I'll post several pics of the result.
I would think about trying to do some vacuuming to waste if you have a manual vacuum to get that sludge up and out. That is going to make this SLAM extra long as it all has be be killed with chlorine. Brushing will be one of the best things you can do to keep the mess up into the chlorine water.
+1 what mknauss said. I am not a fan of zeosand, either, but that is not the issue.
From the pics, it appears pool water is murkier now than before your SLAM start.......is that correct?
From the pics, it appears pool water is murkier now than before your SLAM start.......is that correct?
I don't think so. I think it's slightly more clear, or no worse at the least. It's a little hard to tell because the lighting changes throughout the day, but I think the tile line on the spa steps, and the second step into the pool, is more visible than when I started.
The Dolphin just came out. It's less sludge than last time, but I only ran it once rather than twice like last time. Hopefully the lighting isn't too bad. I added a link to them because the pics are "too large for the server to process." I also backwashed and rinsed the filter, just in case.
PICS HERE
PICS HERE
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I find it difficult that your FC is holding so well with that much green algae in the water.
Have you done a fresh CYA test lately? This bright sunny afternoon might be a good time to do that.
Have you done a fresh CYA test lately? This bright sunny afternoon might be a good time to do that.
I hadn't done a CYA test because I was still adding CYA (though it's almost all dissolved) but just did a fresh one. CYA looks to be right at 30, which is what I was shooting for.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK -- thanks.
You have a tough one. Get that stuff off the bottom up into the general pool with brushing as much as you can. It should be eating your chlorine up left and right.
You have a tough one. Get that stuff off the bottom up into the general pool with brushing as much as you can. It should be eating your chlorine up left and right.
Did your solution make it all the way to/or/above 30? (You might be able to SLAM at CYA/40)
(example picture) This should be called 50, since it's not up to the 40 mark
When you have bumped up to FC/16, how fast does it drop? 15min, 30min, 1hr?
Just trying to think of any way to help move your SLAM along
I'm using the TF-100 test kit, which is a cylinder with a dot to look into. The dot was visible at a glance at 40, was not at 30. I could bump the chlorine anyway.
I can try that right now. What would the methodology be? Add chlorine to FC 16, wait 30 minutes, then test every 15? Alternatively I could do it tonight around 7, just to take the sun out of the equation.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You have not been seeing appreciable FC drop with your current testing regimen so no need to do more testing than you are. You can try raising your FC level, but, again, it is not dropping all that quickly now so I do not see that as an issue either. I believe it is just a case of mixing the algae on bottom up into the chlorinated water.
That was the only picture I could find. If you still have your test solution, you can try filling part way inbetween 30 & 40, just for curiosity's sake. Retest in 15min, if it's not 16, raise it to 16, keep doing that until it holds 16 longer then 15-30min (when you can)
And I do see where you tested FC/15 @ 9:48 and about 2hrs later FC/14, interesting
I'll split the difference. I just gave the pool a good brushing, I'll shoot for FC 16 throughout the day, and I'll run the 15 minute test after the sun goes down tonight. Will take a pic before, and will have fresh test results in the morning as well. I'll plan on brushing every couple hours (so maybe 4-5 brushings today. Fortunately, my pool isn't huge, just awkwardly shaped.)