New Member - first test results

May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#1
I am happy to have found this site. I have been reading and trying to understand everything so be patient please. Moved into a new house last Aug. that has a 22000 gal pool. Just shocked weekly and used chlorine tablets and everything ended fine. Used a local pool company to close the pool in Sep/Oct. Opened the pool this year with same company and after vacuuming we discovered algea at the bottom of the pool. It is brown in color, recollects at the same locations, it is easily scrapped of or vacuumed clean but comes back in a day or so. SOOOO after $$$$$$ of dollars in over two months I found this site and I am taking control. I have bought rounds and rounds of shock/algeacide/ and even replaced the sand filter. the pool is 9 years old and I tt with the previous owner and he said he just shocked and vacuumed it weekly and had no issues.

I bought the TF-100 and my test last night are:
FC - 70
CC - 0
pH - 6.8
TA - 110
CH - did not test
CYA - off the chart -- possible 150+
75 degree water
Water is visible very clear - so clear its easy to see the algea growing at the bottom!

after reading some similiar post the first thing I did this morning was vacuum to WASTE and removed about 25% of the water, filling back up now with the hose. Going to the store today and need a list of supplies and direction to get started. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Bluechip

Well-known member
Feb 5, 2012
131
0
Cypress, TX
#2
FC 70- :shock:
You really put in 140 drops in the FC test? or is it really FC 7 and 14 drops?

Also if your cya is that high it will take a lot more water exchanging than 25%- more like 75% done in steps.
 

JasonLion

LifeTime Supporter
Platinum Supporter
TFP Expert
May 7, 2007
37,879
5
Silver Spring, MD
#3
Welcome to TFP!

The PH test tends to not work when FC is really high. However, if it is actually reading 6.8, your PH could be really really low, which would precent the chlorine from working.

Brushing is also a good idea.

The most important things right now is to get CYA down to something reasonable. That will also help bring the FC level down so we can get a better idea of what the PH really is.
 
May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#4
FC was really 70 last night...140 drops!

I took another reading this afternoon at 1pm as the pool is filling back up after about 25% drain & refill:

FC = 40
CC = 2
TC = 42
TA = 110
CA = 600
CYA = still only halfway up to 100 mark, guessing 150
PH = 6.8
Temp = 72
 

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May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#7
Re: New Member - third test results

June 4th 6pm test:

FC = 23
CC = 0
TC = 23
TA = 110
CA = did not test
CYA = getting closer to 100 mark, guessing 130
PH = 7.2
Temp = 72

Still a little algae left on bottom brushed away the bottom and sides.
 
May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#9
Re: New Member - June 6th

June 6th 10pm test:

FC = 19
CC = 0
TC = 19
TA = 90
CA = did not test
CYA = getting closer again to 100 mark, guessing 120
PH = 7.2

What do I do - algea seems better - do I keep replacing 25% water every other day to get CYA down? TA has been dropping and TC has come down alot - still too orange/red to register on the daily testing unit.
 

aa62579

Well-known member
May 24, 2011
409
0
39
North Central Texas
#10
Yes, you will need to drop CYA. 50 is a good goal if you do not have a SWG.

If you have algae, you are probably not keeping it at shock level which is needed. Shock level for CYA of 100 is very high. (39 according to chlorine/CYA chart).

You may want to consider buying refills of the reagents used in the CYA and FC test. You don't want to run out during the shock process. At least keep an eye on the level and be prepared for this.
 

aa62579

Well-known member
May 24, 2011
409
0
39
North Central Texas
#11
As an after thought, are you sure this is algae and not dirt/pollen? Dirt often collects in the same location due to circulation.

I'll defer to the experts, but your FC is coming down slowly (for being that high to start with and considering much of it is being drained away and replaced with water with zero or very low FC), your CCs are 0, and you say your water is clear.

I'd consider doing an OCLT to see if there are really any organics in the pool or if this could be a poor filtration issue.
 
May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#12
I'll do another test in the am before the sunlight to test to see if the TC comes down at all. I did add 2lbs of Borax since the reading but I'll test again for TC loss. The pool calculator said to add 4 lbs but I thought a gradual increase would be better until I get the CYA under control. Plan on doing another 30-40% water replacement tomorrow.
 
May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#13
FC = 19 at 7:00am this morning so it doesnt look like I lost any FC during the night. Algea growth is officially gone? My only problem now is a 100+ CYA result. So unless I hear otherwise, as I have read I will continue with 25% drain and refill to get CYA to lower. I've drained 25% twice in the last week. I have my Bleach, Borax and Baking soda avaiable when needed!!!
 
May 29, 2012
9
0
52
Cincinnati, OH
#15
PH = 7.5
FC = 8.5
CC = .5
TC = 9
CYA = 110
TA = 100

Pool looks amazing!!! Crystal clear - no algea. I have done 3 25% water refills over the last two weeks. CYA is still a tad over the 100 mark but much improved. In the last two weeks I have only added 3 gals of bleach, one tonight to get FC up to 12, and a small baking soda to get my numbers in line.

Question??? Is the CYA level of 50 still the goal? I know is the recommended but I am completely happy with the results so far. I am afraid to get my water bill. Can I wait a couple weeks to replace and refill with more water and just keep a 12 FC with 100 CYA???