Featured New In Ground Pool - NJ (Dig has Begun)

jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
3,066
Morris Cnty NJ
Looks good so far. What's the plan for the tub amd the space in front of it? I would only use 3/4 clean in that area it's impossible to compact tight areas. Is the stone for backfill amd base for the deck?
 

jonnyd91

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2020
54
NJ
Looks good so far. What's the plan for the tub amd the space in front of it? I would only use 3/4 clean in that area it's impossible to compact tight areas. Is the stone for backfill amd base for the deck?
Im doing all 3/4" stone. i didn't want to mess with compacting any base. I "Think" 75 tons will do the backfill and the 10-12 feet in the front and back of pool.
It will cost me about 2200 bucks delivered, plus the 1k the builder is charging me for labor since they normally don't do it. End of the day for a 70k project i cant really complain for an extra 3k to have "some" insurance and a fairly solid base for the decking. Im also making sure they shovel the gravel in the front of the spa so there will be no voids. When they poured the collar in addition to the spa sitting on gravel and blocks they poured cement around the spa too.
 

Rich D

Bronze Supporter
Aug 3, 2018
960
MA
That fabric will help tremendously, However it is not a 'cure all'. The 3/4 stone on top of the collar will not settle at all where as the organics on the outside that will. So this creates a distinct line for settlement (almost like a weak spot or pivot point) the fabric will help with this However I would still recommend removing any sod or buried sod that will be under the patio. The sod will settle the most. It is very hard to tell from the pics but it looks like they might have removed too much material to be able to slope off the fills gradually. You can use that removed sod for fills in the lawn areas as long as they spread it evenly on the bottom of the fills. You will never notice if the lawn settles a bit (lawns will usually swell over time anyways).
Be sure they run the stone base a minimum of 6" beyond the edge of your deck to support the edge of deck. The deeper the fill the more you need to extend beyond edge of deck. Typically this is figured at 1 to 1 slope so if you are filling 3' you want to be 3' beyond edge of deck at the base.

I know you really do not need one more expense However I would not be putting that much stone in without drain on top of the collar. I know you have seen that there is good drainage there but the stone can act as a holding area for the water wich saturates the base material wich in turns adds to the settlement process. It looks like the is enough slope to be able to run it to daylight. You can use the cheap flex perf 4" pipe around the pool but use scdl 40 pipe to run it out to grade. The scdl 40 outfall does not need pitch you can run it level if you need too. It also does not need to be perferated however you do need to encase it in stone and filter fabric to help the water bleed out.
 

jonnyd91

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2020
54
NJ
@Rich D Dirt is not something i have a shortage of. After back fill they will move some of that around back to form a more gradual grade.

They will be scraping the sod layer anywhere decking will be and then i will cover it with the fabric.

re: collar drain, at this point the only thing i can do really is fill the pool trench above the collar with sand and then put the 3/4" gravel on top of everything.
Im not sure if that is a better solution than just backfilling with all gravel.

Id have to do the drain myself and truthfully I don't really know exactly how its supposed to be done.

I would think having the decking span 10ft in each direction over the pool excavation and sloping away from the pool it should mitigate the majority of any water pooling that could happen in the backfilled trench.


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