New hot tub

[Siggy007]

Hello. About 3 weeks ago I bought a Sundance Cameo. We really like it. I didn't do much reading about maintenance prior to delivery so I'm just starting to figure out a routine. I ordered a Taylor 2006 test kit, but it hasn't arrived so I've been using test strips.

We've been using the tub almost daily. Just the 2 of us. We both shower prior. The hot tub is set to 100* and we stay in for up to an hour. I started using dichlor and have switched to non-stabilized pool chlorine granules as cya approached 40 ppm. I'll probably use bleach when I run out of granules.

I dose it after use everyday. If I don't get it to 6-8 ppm FC, it will be 0 FC 24 hours later. I'm considering disconnecting the ozone and possibly UV as I've read they deplete chlorine. I think I'd rather the chlorine last longer then any benefits gained from UV and ozone. Is this a bad idea?

One additional question for anyone that has a Sundance tub, is this normal? As seen in the picture, if I invert the display all the the indicators come on. Heat on (Its not), error alert (no error), lock on (not locked), wifi (no wifi connected) and music, which I also don't have. It doesn't affect the operation and goes away if I change any settings.

Thanks.

 

[JoeSelf]

Yes, they all come on for a while after inverting. How long are you running the circ pump. I'm set for 8hrs and don't see that much loss.

 

[PoolStored]

Maybe some good reading that would help...

Hot Tub Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

In this link, scroll down for hot tubs...

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Siggy007]

Thanks for the info. The UV/ozone is set to run 8 hours a day.

I've been doing a lot of reading. Some of it is still sinking in. My plan is to get a few months out of this fill, flush, drain and start over. I believe based on what I've read my clorine loss will decrease after.

 

[Oly]

Monitor your combined chlorine CC levels in addition to pH, FC, CH and TA. Your CC number will rise over time and indicate when your water needs a refresh.

 

[Methuselah]

Welcome to TFP!

Dumping when you planned is a good Idea because you are probably right that after purging CHL demand will decrease.

Never heard of chlorine granules without stabilizer and don't believe that's possible, can you post a pic or list the ingredients list?

I'm going to recommend an OTO test kit until your 2006 kit arrives. Just dilute your sample for the yellow side (ph side will be trustworthy if under 10 fc). Try 3:1 with distilled water and multiply by 4 (50/50 is OK too). Otherwise test strips are regarded as having go/no-go accuracy.

Disabling Ozone and UV deserve to be separate issues, and both are highly subjective.

If fc drops to zero (or below associated minimum for your CYA level) stuff grows in your water pretty much immediately. I'd recommend staying out and doing SLAM procedures, or since you are obviously both learning and paying attention, staying out until CHL demand leaves over the required minimum FC (maybe already there?).

Congrats on the new tub, enjoy!!!

 

[Oly]

Never heard of chlorine granules without stabilizer and don't believe that's possible, can you post a pic or list the ingredients list?

I assumed this product was calcium hypochlorite, if so the user needs to monitor rising CH ppm.

 

[RDspaguy]

started using dichlor and have switched to non-stabilized pool chlorine granules

Careful. Your warranty will not cover stains or scale.

I'm considering disconnecting the ozone and possibly UV as I've read they deplete chlorine.

They do. First burning off CC, then going to work on FC. This allows you to over-do it to deal with the high bather load that 1 person in a spa represents without having high CC or FC the next day. A sanitized spa with a closed cover has virtually no chance of getting outside contaminants in the water, so has less need for a constant residual than an open pool with contaminants entering it constantly. Add in silver ion (which kills slowly, but does kill, and inhibits cellular division (reproduction) of single-celled organisms), and you've got very little to worry about with .5 fc when you open. If you want a higher fc when in use, add some before use. But adding enough to COMPLETELY sanitize the water before closing is key. Leave "dirty" water to sit and you'll get nasties growing in spite of all this.

think I'd rather the chlorine last longer then any benefits gained from UV and ozone.

If you like shocking frequently and smelling chlorine while using your spa, then I agree.

The UV/ozone is set to run 8 hours a day.

Ozone is best used 24/7, as is uv. Sundance is one of the best tubs out there, in my opinion, and has a top-notch injection system that is wasted with limited use. That circ pump uses less power than a 100w light bulb, and the ozone/uv is likely even less. Worth every dime in my opinion.

fc drops to zero (or below associated minimum for your CYA level) stuff grows in your water pretty much immediately.

In a pool, yes. In a closed spa, especially with silver ion, not so much. Plus, while the uv/ozone only treats a portion of the water at a time, and mixes back in the tub, running 24/7 you still get 5 turnovers and (they say) 99% exposure in a matter of hours, and multiple times each day. Not enough to keep up in an open tub perhaps, but in a closed and sanitized tub, it can keep it clean for months.
Of course, here at tfp we follow epa recommendations (mostly) even when they do not apply to private pools and spas, so advise everyone to keep high level chlorine concentrations at all times, just like a public pool. Better to be safe than sorry, I agree, but not required for this application. Many people follow manufacturers instructions without issue.

With any new tub I recommend ahhsome spa purge. You would be shocked at what can grow inside pipes in storage or shipping that chlorine has little chance against. There are numerous threads on the subject if you want to read up, or just ask @Ahhsomeguy. He knows all about it.