I have just purchased a home and it has an IG concrete pool. I am very new to the pool game and have been reading up on pool school and in forums on here. I live in Wisconsin and it is not pool weather as of yet. However, I would like to get the pool up and running for the summer. I'm not sure what the previous owner has done for upkeep, but I see they have a Frog revitalizer system. I have read enough on here to know that I am going to get rid of that. The pool is full of water and I'm not sure where to go from here. Is my first step emptying some of the water to shock the pool? Any tips and pointers toward where to begin are greatly appreciated.
New Homeowner with First Pool
- Thread starter mlphillips42
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
Run a full suite of tests and post them up. Great job on getting a quality test kit.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Run a full suite of tests and post them up. Great job on getting a quality test kit.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
I ran my tests today. The results are not great... I have 0 TC. CH of 275 ppm. TA of 280. and the CYA test was full before I couldn't see the black dot. What should I do for my next step?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,124
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Does this mean you filled up the vial all the way to top before the dot disappeared...so CYA 20-30 ppm? If so, that's good. If the dot disappeared before you got to the lowest line...bad. How about pH? How's the water look?
Post results in this format...a bit easier to read.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Temp
Yes, the vile was full before I couldn’t see the black dot anymore. The pH was between 7.8 and 8.2. The water looks a bit cloudy, even a little more when vacuuming. There are some leaves and dirt on the bottom. I will continue vacuuming the pool.
FC 0
CC 0 (I assume, my TC test came back 0)
pH 8.0
TA 280
CH 275
CYA <20
Temp (I need to get a thermometer for the pool). It is cold as the temp in WI has been in the 50s-60s for the last couple of weeks.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,124
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Add 10ppm worth of CYA if you are below 20. That means you can see the dot, though cloudy, with the vial full of the water sample.
Lower your pH to 7.2.
Follow the SLAM Process
Lower your pH to 7.2.
Follow the SLAM Process
I am in the sock method process currently. When would I add the Muratic acid? Should I wait 24 hours after adding the dry stabilizer?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No need to wait. Add the acid and circulate for 30 minutes and test pH. If in low 7's, add your liquid chlorine to get to SLAM level. Maintain that several times per day.
I may have added too much muriatic acid. Here are my current results. Do I need to raise my pH and raise my CYA before I SLAM?
FC 0
CC 0
pH 6.6
TA 90
CH 300
CYA 21
TEMP 64 F
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Aerate you pool water as best you can. The pH will rise as your TA is in a good spot. How did you determine how much acid to use?
A CYA of 21 is not possible to measure. How did you get that result?
A CYA of 21 is not possible to measure. How did you get that result?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Round up and call it 30. Start your SLAM. Raise your FC to 12 ppm. Test and add liquid chlorine at least 3-4 times per day.
I started my SLAM. Tested after an hour of 1 ppm. I added 3/4 gallon of 10% pool chlorine. Does it sound like I’m on the right track?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,124
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Refer to the FC/CYA Levels for your slam level giving your CYA. Use pool math to determine how much 10% bleach to achieve that FC level. Your goal is to maintain slam FC level, so check several times a day and add chlorine bleach as necessary. 3/4 gallon will only raise FC by 3.7 in a 20000 gallon pool.
This is probably a dumb question but I want to be sure before adding more pool chlorine. I tested at 6 ppm for FC which was 12 drops to change back to clear, I have to add more chlorine to get to 12 ppm? Once it gets that high, how long before it becomes swimmable?
Yes. 12 drops = 6ppm and you need to do your best to maintain 12 ppm, 24/7. Its hard but the more you maintain it, the better it goes. You can swim up to or at SLAM level of 12 ppm. Over that is no good.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,124
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Stick with the SLAM Process until you meet all three criteria for completion:
- CC is 0.5 or lower;
- You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- And the water is clear
This morning I passed my SLAM. My overnight chlorine loss test was 0.0 ppm, 0.0 CC and water is clear. These are my results, should I adjust anything right away? Pool math is telling me I am outside of ideal range in all of my tests. Also, is it ok to heat and cover with my solar cover? Thanks again for your input.
FC 10.5 ppm
CC 0.0 ppm
pH 7.4
TA 90
CH 275
CYA 30
TEMP 69° F
FC 10.5 ppm
CC 0.0 ppm
pH 7.4
TA 90
CH 275
CYA 30
TEMP 69° F
I would leave the pool uncovered until the chlorine drops to 7ppm, but you can put on the solar cover at night to keep the heat in that you gain during the day. It shouldn't take long for the chlorine to drop and it is swimable now if you don't mind the chilly water!