New Fiberglass Install - Southern NJ

I like the Saftron covers, I will have to get those for my new pool. I’m trying to get grass to grow, it is supposed to be in the 60s next week here in TN. I see the NE got a big snow already! Pool looks great 🤩
 
I like the Saftron covers, I will have to get those for my new pool. I’m trying to get grass to grow, it is supposed to be in the 60s next week here in TN. I see the NE got a big snow already! Pool looks great 🤩
Thanks! I certainly appreciated your build thread throughout our process. May or may not have taken some ideas :)

Just FYI, our cover is made by GLI. It’s the solid hyperlite: HyPerLite Safety Cover
 
Landscaping is complete (excuse the RING photo, it just happens to catch the entire yard at once), sans a few stepping blocks from front gate/arbor to pool. PB is opening on Saturday 4/24 and then I'll then immediately take over using my TF-100 Pro kit and this forum!

Pool - Landscaping Done.jpg

I hope to only use PB in the future for closing. I wanted to watch the opening process this time as I have never done it before.
 
Just be sure they do not add any mystery chemicals.
I’m on it like a hawk. I know they throw in some algaecide and some shock, so nothing too crazy. I also want to make sure I’m counting the number of DE scoops used when recharging our filter.

Here’s the opening plan. I get a significant discount because of the new install back in November:


I have CYA, muriatic acid and CH increaser on hand and ready to go. We have three shops, all with 10% liquid chlorine in stock for once I take the water tests.

Once I get the chemistry where I want it, I’ll add most of the salt (never been added before), heat the pool and then add the remainder to get to 3600ppm. Then turn on IC40 1-2 days later.
 
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I’m on it like a hawk. I know they throw in some algaecide and some shock, so nothing too crazy. I also want to make sure I’m counting the number of DE scoops used when recharging our filter.

Here’s the opening plan. I get a significant discount because of the new install back in November:


I have CYA, muriatic acid and CH increaser on hand and ready to go. We have three shops, all with 10% liquid chlorine in stock for once I take the water tests.

Once I get the chemistry where I want it, I’ll add most of the salt (never been added before), heat the pool and then add the remainder to get to 3600ppm. Then turn on IC40 1-2 days later.

Just say no to the algaecide, please. Not necessary, and could cause metal staining.
 

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I’m on it like a hawk. I know they throw in some algaecide and some shock, so nothing too crazy. I also want to make sure I’m counting the number of DE scoops used when recharging our filter.

Here’s the opening plan. I get a significant discount because of the new install back in November:


I have CYA, muriatic acid and CH increaser on hand and ready to go. We have three shops, all with 10% liquid chlorine in stock for once I take the water tests.

Once I get the chemistry where I want it, I’ll add most of the salt (never been added before), heat the pool and then add the remainder to get to 3600ppm. Then turn on IC40 1-2 days later.
I'd cancel on them and do it yourself. Opening is a no brainer. Your going to pay them for removing the winter cover, pulling the plugs on the returns and skimmer putting back the drain plugs on the pump and filter, heater and maybe closing a union or two. You will be doing the chemistry anyway so why just go it all the way. Closing is more complicated but pretty much a DIY if your handy.
 
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Just opened on Saturday - 60 minutes tops. But.... I understand the desire to see someone else do it - my builder included an opening way beck when we built the pool, so I just watched and learned.
That’s where we are. We are not paying anywhere near the list price. In the grand scheme of the overall build, it’s worth it just to watch it live and alleviate any concerns I have about missing a step.
 
Well, I made a “thing”. Last season, before winterizing, I quickly realized how much I hate the waste/backwash hose. 1. It sprung leaks in the first month I owned it. 2. Rolling a 100’ hose sucks. Especially when it needs to be squeezed and rolled back towards pad (I need 100’ in order to get beyond finished yard and/or make it near street drain).

So, I really wanted quick connect hoses. I ordered two higher quality hoses with cam locks already built in and a 2” pvc to cam adapter. Now I have two 50’ hoses which I can connect together for the long runs. If I ever need to just lower the water, I can use one 50’ hose and water the trees.

FC317A0D-1B2F-4942-BCBA-F6F71D47E219.jpeg

Here’s the hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B086YWF9BG
Here’s the adapter: Gloxco Aluminum Type A Cam and Groove Fitting, 2″ Male Camlock x 2″ Female NPT (CAM-20-A-AL): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

A lot pricier than cheap vinyl hose, but should last quite a while.

Edit: there’s a bunch of PVC couplings because I cut off the 2” > 1.5” reducing elbow and 1.5” pipe that PB had originally connected the crappy backwash hose too. I may clean off the pipe with some cleaner, just not today.
 
I would have trenched pvc to the street and not deal with it ever again.
I wish I could have. It would be a LOT of PVC and uphill. I suppose we could have, but, I only see myself backwashing once per season (just prior to clean out so that I can expel a lot of the old DE).

If i need to go to waste, then it is only a 50’ hose right to tree bed.

Ultimately, there is a French drain before the buried pipes. I may even be able to just dump the water near the pad. I wanted options :)
 

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