New equipement chemistry goes wacky

ualpow

0
Apr 5, 2009
18
Land O'Lakes/Florida
I have used this forum and the BBB method for many years in my Plainfield Illinois home with never a problem. We moved to a Florida home with and IG pool in August of 2017.
The 1-1/4HP pump went out during the first year and was replaced under the home warranty. They put in a 2.2HP pump. After that I always had trouble with my Navigator pool cleaner. It would get blown around the pool no matter how I adjusted the valves or the return eyes. I didn't have a problem with pool chemistry except that the PH would always creep up past 8 (we only use the waterfall occasionally when we are in the pool)
Last week the 2.2HP pump went out so I bought the Pentair Super Flow VS , a Clean and Clear 100 filter and a flow meter so I could more accurately program the pump. Then the big mistake, I brought a sample into Pinch-A-Loaf to have tested. I was just going to buy salt but I thought I would bring a sample anyway. My FC was at 1, PH 8, Alkalinity 100, CYA 50, Hardness 195 and Salt at 2000 which was why I went to the store.
She said to add the salt, 2 cups muriatic, 2 bags of shock, 5.3lbs Calcium increase. I also added 2lbs of stabilizer. She also told me to turn the SWG up to 40 even after I told her my pool was only 8000 gal and I would be running the pump 24/7. That was on 1/22/19.
So....My OTO Chlorine test now turns orange. The DPD test showed 30. PH turns purple. everything else is in range. After I saw the orange chlorine test I shut off the SWG. (I had been running the 2.2HP pump for 6hr with SWG at 15 )
I don't know what to do about the chlorine level. I have the pump running 24hrs and haven't had SWG on for a few days now. The water is clear but I can smell the chlorine. What do you think I should do?
 
U,

Step 1.. QUIT GOING TO A POOL STORE!!! ;)

Step 2... Relax, your FC level will come down all by itself in a few days..

I would not use the pool until the FC drops below shock level for your CYA...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Update. I got my new Taylor test kit today. FC still tests 30ppm, PH 8, Alkalinity 120, CYA is 100, Hardness 320.
Is there anything I can do to drop the FC faster? I have the pump running 24/7. 4hr@3000rpm, 7hr@1700rpm and 13hr@1400rpm.
I don't plane on running it 24/7 forever. I will reprogram it once I figure out how I am going to make sure the SWG cant come on when the pump is off and not rely on the flow switch.
 
With cooler temps and reduced sunlight, it will take a long time for FC to drop to something reasonable. There are chlorine reducers available at the pool store. Imagine that -- they can create a problem and then sell you a cure! How it works and how well it works, I couldn't tell you. I'm only aware of the existence of these products. I've never used them.
 
I drained about 8" of water and refilled. I let it circulate overnight and tested it this afternoon.
CL 30
FC .5
TA 120
PH 7.4
CH 300
CYA 90
Water temp 71
Should I keep waiting with the SWG off or use something to drop the Chlorine level. It's taking a long time to come down on it's own.
 
A CL of 30 with a CYA of 90+ is safe and perfectly fine. No reason to kill good chlorine. Just monitor it.

What FC level do you want to maintain your pool water at?
 
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Target FC is based on 7.5% of CYA.. Most of us maintain 10% of CYA to maintain a buffer. SLAM level is 40% of CYA.
 
I drained about 8" of water and refilled. I let it circulate overnight and tested it this afternoon.
CL 30
FC .5
TA 120
PH 7.4
CH 300
CYA 90
Water temp 71
Should I keep waiting with the SWG off or use something to drop the Chlorine level. It's taking a long time to come down on it's own.

Wait a minute.... What test kit are you using? You mention a Taylor kit, but not which model.

Are you saying your total chlorine level is 30ppm but Free Chlorine is only 0.5?
 
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