New construction


New member
May 5, 2017
Jackson, Michigan
Hello guys!

I am new to the forums, but hoping to get some valuable information from it!

About four years ago, my father bought an in-ground pool kit. I believe the manufacturer was voyager. It was steel walls, a-frames and a vinyl liner that slides into a track mounted to the top of the sides once it's in the ground. In a rush to get it up, he didn't install it right (Self-install), and over the last few years the pool has been caving in. Finally, last year the liner ripped, and after the water was drained the walls on one side caved in (He never put a cement ring at the base of the a-frames like he was supposed to).

We are looking to get it back up again this year, but since the original location is now flooded (There was a water table directly under the pool we didnt know about until months later), we are relocating it, so we dug all the old panels and a-frames up. We have ordered replacements for all of the panels that are bent, warped or damaged.

My question is, the last time the pool was installed (a professional excavator came and did it), the coping and about 1' of the top of the wall was above the ground. This didn't look right to me, as even if coping was installed (Which it never was), it would've been above the ground.

My real question is, how far above the ground 'should' the top of the wall be? I had thought it would be flush with the top of the ground, and then you remove 6-8" of top-soil around the pool to install the cement pad and coping. Is this not correct?

I want to do it right this time, but the last pool person quoted us $10,000 to install (More than we paid for the kit), and I am DIY so i'd like to do it myself (I was unavailable to help the last time).

Any insight?


In The Industry
Nov 8, 2011
We have done this for over 35 years and usually try not to be flush with the sod. Usually we try to have the pool up a couple inches to keep water from coming over the deck into the pool in a downpour