I would put it on the straight pipe between the 3 way valve and the check valve. This way you would generate chlorine whether in Pool Mode or Spa Mode. You do not really need a check valve if using a SWCG but it won't matter. On that pipe they cut out to fit the SWCG, that could be your dummy if you would need to remove your SWCG for any reason and still allow you to circulate. They would need to put on matching unions as on your SWCG.
No. The SWCG does not create an acidic stew like a trichlor chlorinator does. And the chlorine levels in the SWCG are just slightly higher than the overall pool chlorine. So there is no need to prevent backflow from it to the heater.
Ask him to put matching unions on the section of pipe they remove and fit it to replace the SWCG when you may have to remove it for service.
It’s called Dove Gray. Kind of a dark gray. The tile store recommended it and we thought it looked good
That makes me feel better. Yes the foundation is definitely higher than the street. New build in league city so they have some stringent codes for home elevations. The Pb said a lot of drains for pavers/travertine are next to the foundation. We are going to discuss in the morning just to ease my mind. And yes the yard is sloped away from the house towards the street.
I noticed the same with our design. Sun shelf is almost never used. Umbrella hold has not been used once. I wanted a deep enough pool to be overhead but the slope ended up being a little much. Maybe shallower is more useful. Our spa doesn’t even have a blower. 6x6 with 6 Jets but full wrap around seating including by spillover. That is a must. I’m not sure when a blower becomes necessary. Even at 2200rpm bubbles are enough to relax in ours.Personal items. Good choice on the 5' max depth. Our PB suggested 5' but my wife wanted 6', which turned out be a mistake. I want to be able to stand on the bottom anywhere--to rescue a kid (we don't have any at home) or for maintenance, plus it turns out most people do want to stand in the pool, so now the deep end is less used.
Sun shelf. For us that turned out to be a huge waste of pool area. We have never used it. Sunning is so 20th century. If I want cancer, I'll just start smoking. Instead of the sun shelf, I wish we had just done full width stairs for lots of multi level seating.
Air blower for the spa. We have a Silencer 2 hp, and it is simply too powerful and splashes water out of the spa like crazy. I called the manufacturer of the blower, and he advised a 1 hp would probably have been better, but now, since the blower is on top of a big PVC pipe he suggested drilling some 1/4" holes in the pipe to bleed off the excess air. I have maybe ten holes at different heights and positions around the pipe, and that has tamed the problem. If I change my mind, I could just tape over the holes or even put screws in them, but so far that's not likely to happen, although if I have to replace the motor, I'll get a 1 hp and cover the holes.
Spa layout. We have about a five foot spillover. I would have gone narrower than that since we typically run the pump at about half speed. Also the seat in the spa does not go all the way around--it stops where the spillover is. I would have it run the full perimeter of the spa.
That's it. Here in the Houston area we use the pool from mid April to November but the spa 12 months, since I can set the suction and return valves to isolate the spa, making it easy to heat it up in just a few minutes in January. However we didn't use in the middle part of February this year, but the icicles on the spillover were fun.
Looks nice. Watch the grout on top of the skimmer inlet and all around where it meets the coping. Mine had cracks pretty quickly. I found out after that’s a moving joint. I have seen some pools fine with grout, some with an ugly plastic filler strip and some with a flexible mastic. I’ll probably be contacting the PB again before my warranty is up. They regrouted it once already.
