New Build - Austin, Texas - Slide Video

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There's also a 5 hp version if you think you will need a bigger pump. It might not communicate fully with automation. Check with Pentair to verify.


www.pentair.com

WhisperFloXF® VS 5HP Variable Speed Pump

The WhisperFloXF VS 5HP Commercial Pump is the first five-horsepower variable-speed pool pump that runs on single-phase or three-phase power.
www.pentair.com www.pentair.com



 
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Rebar started today. I have a question for the construction experts. They overdug on our tanning ledge, so are trying to fix it with pulling the rebar out. How thick can the gap between the dirt and the rebar be before it becomes a problem? It seems to vary from about 16"-18" between the dirt and the start of the rebar here. Do they need to add more rebar in the middle for structural integrity?

@bdavis466

@jimmythegreek


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I am going to jump in and let those tell me if I am right (or wrong).................it will be fine like it is. The shelf is not structural so they can use all the gunite they want to bulk it out to where it should be.

I am just glad they did not do the rebar to the dirt thus making your shelf too small!
 
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I am in same thought of mind as @kimkats . gunite or dirt will support the shelf. If you are really concerned, you could drop a couple of straight rebar rods straight down into the dirt and tie at top. It just will give the gunite something to attach to That should be easy for them to do that.
 
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They started plumbing today and already went off of the plan slightly.

I have 3 36" water sheers. The installation guide says they need 36 GPMs each, and to use 1.5" piping if the runs are less than 60 feet from the pump and 2" pipes if the runs are over 60 feet (all of my runs over over 60 feet, closer to 100 feet each).
Each sheer will have a separate line back to the equipment pad.

I went out and checked the pipes after they left for the day and they are using 1.5" pipes instead of 2". They are about half way done with plumbing these. Does anyone have a feel if this is a big deal or if it should be fine? I tried to calculate the total dynamic head to see how that looked, but I am uncertain of (1) how I should handle the fact that the pipe splits into three pieces to feed all three water sheers, and secondarily, (2) if I should be using the total needed flow rate (36 GPMs x 3 = 108 GPM) or just the flow rate needed for each of the three pipes (36 GPM). Those two variables make a huge difference in the total dynamic head calculation, but I can't seem to find guidance on how to do the calculation for a split like this.

I have attached the pump schematic for reference.

Thanks!
 

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  • Proposed Plumbing 20200820.pdf
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Plumbing is continuing to move along. Here are some progress pics of where they are so far. Probably another day or two of work for this phase.

For the problem in the previous post, I ended up having them just run 2" pipe the rest of the way for the water sheers. I think that should be good enough for reducing the total dynamic head to a reasonable level for those runs.

Only problem currently I think, besides a couple missing pipes, is that there are a few 3 inch pipes that they put a transition down to 2" pipe, but I have a couple of IntelliFloXF's that can take 3" pipe directly without needing to be stepped down to 2".

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Sparks22 said:
is that there are a few 3 inch pipes that they put a transition down to 2" pipe, but I have a couple of IntelliFloXF's that can take 3" pipe directly without needing to be stepped down to 2".
Click to expand...
I suspect that they did that for the pressure test. They should not step down to 2" going into the pump for the system plumbing.
 

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Well it has been awhile since the last post. Took about a month of mostly waiting around, but they did gunite on Friday. It generally looks pretty good with only a couple of minor issues to work out. Today they began removing the form boards and started to deliver the travertine decking.

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I see you have already been bonding with your pool aka watering it! Good job!

What things need to be "fixed"? Did they say when they would be doing it?

It is time for YOUR set of links! It is a lot of info so take it a piece at a time!


Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.

Kim:kim:
 
kimkats said:
I see you have already been bonding with your pool aka watering it! Good job!

What things need to be "fixed"? Did they say when they would be doing it?

It is time for YOUR set of links! It is a lot of info so take it a piece at a time!


Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...

Thanks Kim!

Problems:

1. One of the bubblers somehow sunk relative to the other two, so they are going to need to chip it out and replumb it to get it to the right height (they are GloBrite bubblers, so they need to level with the tanning deck).
2. They concreted over one of the pool lights, so they need to chip it out. I can tap the wall and hear the hollow sound of the light so I don't think it is too deep.

I plan to order the TF-100 test kit, not sure what the PB intends to supply.
 
sigh.................how do they even explain doing those two things??? gurrrrrrr

We had one PB that supplied the new pool owner with an opened bottle of a sample bottle of test strips that only had 3 strips left in it AND it was outdated!!! So there is no telling what he is going to give you.

Kim:kim:
 
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Looks like one more issue. The shallow end appears to be too deep. We wanted 4' but it looks like it is a little more than 4'6" which is at my wife's neck.

Does anyone know if it is possible to add more gunite to the floor to raise the floor up some, or has that ship sailed?
 
First things first...................the water level should be measured at the middle of the skimmer face. Just want to make sure we are on the same page.

Now if you do want to raise the floor they can do it just by adding more gunite without any problem.
 
kimkats said:
First things first...................the water level should be measured at the middle of the skimmer face. Just want to make sure we are on the same page.

Now if you do want to raise the floor they can do it just by adding more gunite without any problem.
Click to expand...

Yep, we pulled a string across the top of the beam, then subtracted 3 inches off of our measurement from the floor to the string to approximate the water depth.

Thanks Kim! I'll talk to the PB on Monday to have him come confirm the depths and talk to him about adding some more gunite.
 
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Coping is starting to go down today. One of the guys chopped off the bonding wire loop that was coming out of the top of the bond beam. We still have 2 more bonding wire loops coming out of the gunite. Is it okay that he cut off one of the 3 bonding wire loops? Or is that going to cause a safety issue?
 

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