NEW Aquapure 1400 - Only 14v and LOW SALT and NOT FOUND error

May 13, 2018
8
Tustin, CA
#1
Hey guys,

I've searched everywhere online for answers, but I haven't been able to come up with anything. I bought a house with a pool and everything was fine until the Aquapure 1400 fried itself (internal leak was causing water to push up into the prongs). I had it replaced under home warranty with a new one and everything seemed ok until now.

Pool guy says he has to keep adding chlorine, which makes me think the Aquapure isn't working. Pushing the salinity button showed 2.8 (no error codes or lights). The next week he had to add more and I noticed the SERVICE light was on (error code 121 while reversing and also error 120 in normal operation).

I pulled off the cell and inspected. It looks almost new (it's less than 6 months old). I put it back on and was getting the same error codes. Salinity 2.8 again. I have FLOW for all tests. Chlorine rate is set to 65%.

I tested the voltage across the probes and got 14 ACV. I read it should be between 22-30. I thought that was the issue! I read about the backboards going bad (and this one looked in bad shape) so I bought a replacement and installed that.

When I booted everything back up the system was throwing error code 144 (LOW SALT) and the cell refused to turn on to test voltage. Now the salinity was reading 1.7! I didn't trust the new board so I had my water fully tested at a local shop and it came back 1.6! I added salt to the pool according to spec and now it's sitting at 2.4 salinity and still reading LOW SALT, but the cell turns on and doesn't have any service lights.

Now my question to all of you:
  1. Is 2.4 salinity still too low?
  2. Is there a reason I'm only getting 14 ACV across the probes and at the spade connections?
  3. Is there a proper way to hook-up the connections? I couldn't find anywhere which spade connected to which (I did blue > green and red > white/black)

Lastly, my aquapure does NOT show up on the iAqualink menu. When I click "set aquapure" I get an error "AquaPure not found. Check AquaPure RS485 and power connections." It has done this since I bought the house. Is there some way to get the system to recognize it?

Thank you all very much!!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,677
#2
2.4 is too low.
Red goes to green and blue goes to white+black but it will work either way.
The aquapure board needs to connect by the 4-wire connector to the aqualink 4-wire communication link.
Did both cells have 3 pins?
 
May 13, 2018
8
Tustin, CA
#3
Yeah both cells were 3 prong (pins) on top. I will double check if the board is connected to the 4-wire communication link, but all the cables that were attached all went back on the same way. I'll also switch the spade connectors while I'm in there. I'll post a picture as well. Give me a few minutes.
 
May 13, 2018
8
Tustin, CA
#4
So I took another look at the wiring. There is no 4-pin connection going to the backboard that was replaced. The iAqualink 4-pin was installed directly to a side PCB. That side PCB has (4) 4-pin connectors and one of them is directly connected to the Aqualink RS front panel. I'm assuming it's a splitter of some sorts.

Here are some photos to help illustrate. I was thinking I could undo the iAqualink 4-pin wiring from where it is and attach it directly to the front panel?

Screenshot_36.jpg Screenshot_37.jpg Screenshot_38.jpg Screenshot_39.jpg
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,677
#5
The red 4-wire connector on the aquapure board needs to connect to the aqualink RS board directly or by using the 4 way multiplexing board. All of the devices that are controlled by the aqualink RS need to connect by the 4-wire connector. The multiplexer board is just a splitter.

Just run a 4 wire from the red connector to any red connector on the multiplexer board or directly to the aqualink RS board. Make sure that the wiring order is the same. You will have to double up the wires at a connector.

Did the trisensor get replaced with the cell?

Is the trisensor program set to A or B?

What is the number on the cpu of the aquapure board?

Have you verified the actual salinity?
 

Dodger

Silver Supporter
Sep 18, 2017
477
Silicon Valley, CA
#6
I also inherited a set-up where the Aquapure was never connected to the RS front board, so I had no automated control of the Aquapure. I recently added the communication wiring myself from Aquapure box to the RS board and all works well with my iAqualink.

That mini-board with the (4) 4-pin connectors is Jandy's p/n 6584 multiplex board. You should be able to connect your Aquapure RS485 wires into any one of them and even piggy-back up to 2 sets of device wires into each connector if you don't have enough room.
 
May 13, 2018
8
Tustin, CA
#7
Hey guys, thanks for all the responses! To answer a few questions:

I will connect a 4-wire from the aquapure board to the side pcb and test that tomorrow.
The tri-sensor was replaced with the cell.
The sensor is set to A
I will get the CPU number tomorrow morning (when there is light).
I have verified the salinity reading after replacing the backboard. Once replaced it was reading 1.7 and the water test at Leslie's pools showed 1.6.

Dodger, thanks for the info! I will do that tomorrow. I didn't realize it was just an extension board. I thought maybe each 4-pin connector had something special.

I will report back tomorrow after I get the 4-wire ran from the aquapure board to the side pcb. Thanks again!
 

Dodger

Silver Supporter
Sep 18, 2017
477
Silicon Valley, CA
#9
My Aquapure shows low salt error below about 2.8. I target 3.2-3.5 for the self-read value. Sometimes I check with an external test, but mostly I follow the advice I found here at TFP to just keep it within the level that the SWCG likes (no error) as long as it is producing chlorine.

Also fyi, my Aquapure salt level reading varies 10+% with water temp. When the heater is on, it goes up by 300-500. For that reason, I'm careful not to keep the nominal level too high. I don't want to get a high salt error when heating the pool or spa.
 
#10
Reporting back on this one. I updated the wiring and added in a 4-wire connection from the aquapure backboard to the side pcb. It now shows up via the web and iAqualink 2.0!! However, now I can't control it from the panel buttons. Is it a one way or the other type of situation?

Salinity is still reading 2.4 after 24 hours of adding salt and running the pump a ton. I will add more salt in this afternoon (half a bag at a time).

Lastly, when I was checking the voltage I was doing AC voltage and not DC voltage. Now when I check DC voltage across the prongs I am getting 34. That seems out of the normal range (but I'm not getting any errors).

Thanks again.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,677
#11
I think that when you have the remote controlling the AquaPure, you have to put it in Service mode to control it from the panel.

I recommend that you get a K-1766 test kit for salt. It's important to independently monitor the salinity to check the box.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

The salinity can be calibrated if it's off.
 

Dodger

Silver Supporter
Sep 18, 2017
477
Silicon Valley, CA
#12
As James said, the comm wires from AP to AQ will lock you out controlling from the AP panel, though you can still view the various readings including salinity and temp on the AP panel.

One good thing for me is that I can now control the AP to a 1% resolution through the iAqualink, whereas I could only change it in 5% increments from the AP panel.
 
#13
James - do you think Leslie pools salinity tests are inaccurate? I can keep taking my water in there to get tested (it's only 2 minutes from my house). I'll also talk to the pool guy that I acquired with the house and ask if he's been checking salinity on top of chlorine levels.

Dodger, that's actually really cool it goes in single increments. Hopefully by the end of the week the pool will balance itself out and I can start using it regularly. The chlorine levels tested high at Leslie's so I'm waiting until some of that burns off. I've also got some algaecide in the water (from a waterfall feature that had an algae bloom) - so I'm waiting for that to dissipate properly as well. Trying to get the pool summer ready!

Thanks for all the help!
 

Dodger

Silver Supporter
Sep 18, 2017
477
Silicon Valley, CA
#15
shift,

Do yourself a favor and keep reading up on this site about pool chemistry and the TFPC method (see Pool School link at the top of the page). Wean yourself off of Leslie's. You should be measuring your chlorine level with an FAS-DPD kit, one of the many things Leslie's does not do. And I recommend measuring your chlorine (and maybe pH) every day as a new owner coming into a hot SoCal summer. Until you get to know how your pool behaves, you don't even know what setting you'll need (AP% plus pump run time) to avoid algae outbreaks. You'll likely need to adjust the AP a few times during the summer. And you may need to bump chlorine with a liquid dose sometimes if you have multiple people in the pool (party).

Also, be careful about what algaecide you use. And for that matter, any fancy chemicals Leslie's tries to sell you. You can ask here if it is safe and chemistry experts will be right there for you.