Need your thoughts on a 2008 Hot Spring Vista Spa

[Tim_B]

I haven't owned a spa in 20 years. Just purchased a home that has a 2008 Hot Spring Vista Spa sunken in the deck and would like your opinions.


1. When we viewed the home the water was warm. Water is now cold. Cant get the temp to display on the panel. I think the previous owner had the heater relay board replaced not to long ago. The panel doesn't appear to be locked. Any ideas?

2. I think the previous owner just kept tablets in and never checked the chemicals. I plan to use Ahh-Some on it and then drain/fill. I just checked the chemicals with my Taylor K2006.

FC 32.5
CC 0
PH no idea, bright yellow
TA was red after R0008 (should be green), quit here.
CH was clear after R0011L (should be red), quit here.
CYA out of reagent, ordered more.

The smell of chlorine will knock you down when you remove the cover. Water is clear but feels slimy almost like its pure chlorine. Like I said, going to use Ahh-Some and drain/fill it. Can I maintain it just like my pool. Anything I should do different?

3. We are not sure if we like the spa so low in the deck and we are thinking of putting it on top of the deck. Is your spa sunken or on top? Do you like it or hate it? The spa I had 20 years ago was on top and I liked it. It seemed easier to get into and easier to maintain.

4. The cover is original and needs to be replaced. Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[jza1736]

Mine is hidden behind our steps. Only wish it was how yours is. It's level with the top landing as yours has the acrylic over the deck

You can't test PH with FC over 10

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

I am old as dirt and it would be impossible for me to get in and out of your spa... It would also be very hard for me to do any maintenance underneath the deck.

If this were my spa, I'd be jacking it up to where about 28" was above the deck and there would be a hatch that allowed full access to the mechanical area.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Certified106]

Here is what I did with mine and I love it.

 

[Tim_B]

I went over to the new home today to mess around with the spa. I still cant get the heater to work. The red power light is on and the only button that seems to work is Clean. The Temp and Light buttons do nothing. If I flip the breaker the panel comes on and displays 80 degrees. Pushing buttons still does nothing, once it times out the temp goes away never to return. The jets do work via the remote panel on top and there is a constant flow of bubbles coming from the bottom center drain so something is working. Could the panel be bad?

I also saw that the water level has dropped a good bit. Behind the deck is an access door to the tub. From there I see water dripping out from under the tub. Not sure if that has anything to do with the heat not working. Guess I'll need to get in there and figure out whats leaking. The deck was designed so that a section of the deck can be removed to access (or move) the tub. The tub being buried in a deck makes an easy inspection into a pain in the rear.

I see you guys have assisted cover lifts, that is another reason Id like to raise the tub. I'm also not getting any younger and working on my knees kinda sucks. I also think it'll be easier to get in and out if its raised. We'll see.

Here are few more pics I took today.

 

[tim5055]

The big problem I see is that teh mechanical on a Hot Springs are on the same side as the control panel. There are generally a set of screws across teh top of the side panel below the controls and another set along the bottom.

With that joist they cut out to allow access to the controls you are going to have a hard time getting to the screws unless they made other arrangements somehow. What I hope is that they left the top screws out and the friction against the joist is holding the top against the tub.

It's way too hard to get under there and work, I'd be bringing it up to the top of the deck with steps along side.

As to replacement covers, generally if you use one of the Hot Springs cover lifters (like you see in the photo by Certified106) you are usually limited to a true Hot Springs cover because there is unique reinforcement in the sides where the cover screws in place.

If you don't have their lifter then there are numerous on line places that just have you measure and sell generic ones at a discount over the Hot Springs.

I got my first tub in 1979 and have had one almost all the time between then and now. I could generally get 3-4 years out of a cover before thy become waterlogged and start degrading.

 

[Tim_B]

The big problem I see is that the mechanical on a Hot Springs are on the same side as the control panel. There are generally a set of screws across the top of the side panel below the controls and another set along the bottom.

With that joist they cut out to allow access to the controls you are going to have a hard time getting to the screws unless they made other arrangements somehow. What I hope is that they left the top screws out and the friction against the joist is holding the top against the tub.

It's way too hard to get under there and work, I'd be bringing it up to the top of the deck with steps along side.

As to replacement covers, generally if you use one of the Hot Springs cover lifters (like you see in the photo by Certified106) you are usually limited to a true Hot Springs cover because there is unique reinforcement in the sides where the cover screws in place.

If you don't have their lifter then there are numerous on line places that just have you measure and sell generic ones at a discount over the Hot Springs.

I got my first tub in 1979 and have had one almost all the time between then and now. I could generally get 3-4 years out of a cover before thy become waterlogged and start degrading.

I got under there,removed 4 screws and the service panel came off. Not sure if the panel is normally this size or its been cut down but It looks like everything is accessible.

The water is dripping from either the light fixture or the air valve above it. When I turn the jets on I see water coming from under the air valve, running down into the spa. Maybe some of the water is getting inside as well?

As far as the heater not working, Is there a water level sensor that could be keeping it from coming on since the water level is low (its only a couple inches low) or could the water dripping out cause an airlock that would keep the heater from working? I read that some heaters have a reset button, any idea where that is? I'm running out of ideas.

 

[tim5055]

No water level sensor, there is only a water flow sensor. If it is a 2008 you probably have a 50/50 chance that either the heater is bad or the flow sensor is bad. On some models the flow sensor is part of the heater.

After about 5 spas I've never seen a reset button.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

To troubleshoot a spa you need a voltmeter and a schematic of the control system, usually found on the inside of the cover to the controls..

Post a pic of the schematic and lets see what we can determine...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Tim_B]

Tim,

To troubleshoot a spa you need a voltmeter and a schematic of the control system, usually found on the inside of the cover to the controls..

Post a pic of the schematic and lets see what we can determine...

Thanks,

Jim R.

I have a volt meter and here is a pic of the inside cover.

Just to catch up. The heater was working 2-3 weeks ago. When I trip the breaker, the panel comes on and shows 80°. The only button that responds is the “clean” button. The rest do nothing. I’m going to check the water temp tomorrow to see if it’s at 80 or higher. I’m thinking if the panel buttons are broke and the water is above 80° then the heater shouldn’t be coming on, but then again the ready light should be on which it’s not. The “Light” buttons do not work so I guess it could still be the panel or the heater. I’m lost. Ugh...

 

[Tim_B]

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

Sorry, I'm not going to be much help, but this is what I would do...

With the power off, I would removed and reinstall all the connectors on the top right of the main board.. especially the one with the ribbon connector and the one with the RJ45 connector.

This unit should have two circuit breakers in the sub-panel.. A 30 amp and 20 amp GFCI breakers.. I'd want to make sure they both are reset..

Then I'd want to measure the voltage coming in at the grey connector on the voltage input side...

Assuming you have both sets of 220 volt power, I would work on the light problem first. The light should be the simplest thing to figure out. It either works or not.. The is no programming or timing involved. I'd look at the bottom of the main board and suspect one of the connections goes to the light. I'd measure the light output and push the light button. If you get voltage and no light you will know the light is out.. I am not sure if your light is low voltage or not... Assuming that you get no voltage, then either the main board is not working or the control board is not working.

I am not familiar with your board, but it could be the power supply that runs the board is bad or not getting AC power (bad fuse???)

Not sure that helps at all but that is where I would start.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Tim_B]

Tim,

Sorry, I'm not going to be much help, but this is what I would do...

With the power off, I would removed and reinstall all the connectors on the top right of the main board.. especially the one with the ribbon connector and the one with the RJ45 connector.

This unit should have two circuit breakers in the sub-panel.. A 30 amp and 20 amp GFCI breakers.. I'd want to make sure they both are reset..

Then I'd want to measure the voltage coming in at the grey connector on the voltage input side...

Assuming you have both sets of 220 volt power, I would work on the light problem first. The light should be the simplest thing to figure out. It either works or not.. The is no programming or timing involved. I'd look at the bottom of the main board and suspect one of the connections goes to the light. I'd measure the light output and push the light button. If you get voltage and no light you will know the light is out.. I am not sure if your light is low voltage or not... Assuming that you get no voltage, then either the main board is not working or the control board is not working.

I am not familiar with your board, but it could be the power supply that runs the board is bad or not getting AC power (bad fuse???)

Not sure that helps at all but that is where I would start.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim.

I’m heading over there now to check over everything you posted. I watched a few videos online and learned a little more on how to troubleshoot it. I’ll report back ASAP.

 

[Tim_B]

Checking voltages now.

H1 and H2 are dead.
2,3 and 4 have 120v
Water temp is 86°
Leak is coming from the light fixture.

 

[jza1736]

What are you testing to? Ground or neutral?

What do you have between 2 and 4? That should be 230v

5 is your neutral it shouldn't have power on it

1 should have 120v

Check your breakers. According to the diagram you should have 2 gfci breakers. 1, 2 pole 20 amp and
1, 2 pole 30 amp.

 

[Tim_B]

What are you testing to? Ground or neutral?

What do you have between 2 and 4? That should be 230v

5 is your neutral it shouldn't have power on it

1 should have 120v

Check your breakers. According to the diagram you should have 2 gfci breakers. 1, 2 pole 20 amp and
1, 2 pole 30 amp.

I checked H1 to the ground and H2 to the ground and got nothing. Also checked H1 to H2 and got nothing.

2,3 and 4 was checked to the ground and got 120v each. I didn’t check 1 or 5.

I also didn’t check between 2 and 4. I’ll try that when I get back.

I do have 2 GFCI breakers, a 20 and a 30.

I found the receipt where the previuos owner replaced the heater relay board in 2013. I’ve sent an email to the him asking for any info on the tub.

 

[jza1736]

Check your breakers first. Make sure they are not tripped. Make sure they have 120v/230v coming from them

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

When checking for 220 volts you must measure between the two hot leads... such as H1 to H2.. You never check H1 to ground and H2 to ground, because it is possible for you to read 120 volts to ground but not have 220 volts between them..

Because you have so much else not working, I am not at all surprised that your heater has no voltage...

I would check the fuse at the very bottom of the circuit board below the word "Blower".. What you see is the rear end of a fuse holder... Not sure if you can get your hand back behind the box to get the cap off the fuse holder or not.. I would use the volt meter and see if you can get a voltage reading.. it would be 120 volts.. I believe it is going to run the circulator pump...

Does the circulator pump run???

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

If the fuse is good you would have 120 volts on both side of the fuse..

 

[Tim_B]

Tim,

When checking for 220 volts you must measure between the two hot leads... such as H1 to H2.. You never check H1 to ground and H2 to ground, because it is possible for you to read 120 volts to ground but not have 220 volts between them..

Because you have so much else not working, I am not at all surprised that your heater has no voltage...

I would check the fuse at the very bottom of the circuit board below the word "Blower".. What you see is the rear end of a fuse holder... Not sure if you can get your hand back behind the box to get the cap off the fuse holder or not.. I would use the volt meter and see if you can get a voltage reading.. it would be 120 volts.. I believe it is going to run the circulator pump...

Does the circulator pump run???

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

If the fuse is good you would have 120 volts on both side of the fuse..

I checked H1 to H2 expecting 220v and got nothing, I then checked each to the ground and got nothing.

I'll check the fuse tomorrow. I didn't know there was one but I see it now. I'll also check the breakers for voltage.

The circulation pump seems to be running. I can hear it and I see water/bubbles coming up from the bottom center drain.


I'm beginning to think the heater relay board is bad. I've seen a few posts where they also had no voltage across the H1-H2 and after pulling the board they found burnt spots on the back of the board. But I don't think this would explain why the control panel doesn't respond or the light doesn't work.

I also found a receipt for the original purchase of the tub and it was dated 2005 so I guess its an 05, not an 08. Not sure if that makes a difference.

The previous owner got back to me today and said that everything was working properly before we closed on the home. Go figure....

 

[jza1736]

The reason you are not getting anything on h1 and h2 is because you are not supposed to.

If it's wired according to the diagram
H1 is phase 1 of the 20 amp breaker and h2 is phase 1 of the 30 amp breaker. Put a meter on those and you will get nothing except continuity.