Need to balance pool

[RTP]

I had my liner changed and the contractor has left balancing the water to me. I had my water tested by a pool supply company and here are the results:
FAC 0
TAC 0
Salt 3700
CH 100
CYA 20
TA 20
pH 7.2
Phosphates 500

From what I have read on this site I think my cell need replacing, it is reading 2200 ppm, and not producing.


I am ordering a FAS/DPD TF 100 test kit. Questions; What do I need to test salt, or will it be included in this test kit? Any recommendations?

If I am reading the Pool Math Table properly I should add the following:
17-gal bleach
4lb 10 oz. washing soda
411lbs. backing soda
324lbs calcium chloride
146lbs stabilizer
Have I read this correct, and if so what do I add first?


Is it possible to balance the pool before I order and replace the cell?

Note: the water is crystal clear.

 

[Texas Splash]

You have a couple options - repair the SWG and adjust levels according to a SWG-managed pool; OR ... simply treat your pool as a non-SWG pool (manually chlorinate) until you're ready to run 100% with a new SWG. That's a decision you probably want to make now before adjusting CYA (stabilizer).

If you chose to manage the pool as a non-SWG pool, you'll want the CYA at about 30 to begin with. You can always increase it later. The pool store testing (which we never like) says your CYA is 20, but that doesn't make sense since home water won't have CYA in it - unless you already added some stabilizer. So keep that in mind. Until you can confirm the CYA with your TF-100, I wouldn't go too crazy with bleach (FC). At a low CYA level, the FC is much more potent and you don't want to damage that new liner. So based on your pool size and using the Poolmath calculator, I would adjust FC between 3-5 and keep it there until you get your TF-100. TA is usually an easy test for pool stores to do, but 20 looks a bit low. You could add some baking soda for a new TA target of about 50 for now. Again, re-confirm with your TF-100.

No need to increase CH since you don't have plaster, so save your $$ there. No need to increase pH at this time as I expect it should increase shortly on its own. Again, your TF-100 will be a good test of pH once received.

As for the salt, the TF-100 doesn't not test for salt. You'll want something like THIS.

So for now, keep "some" FC in the water (between 3-5), and since you can't rely on pool store testing for a good CYA reading, use the Poolmath calculator to shoot for a CYA target of 30 for now, then re-confirm with your TF-100. Use baking soda to increase TA to about 50 for now, then let everything rest until you can retest with your TF-100. Until your TF-100 arrives, you should lose about 2 ppm of FC each day, so simply add a little bleach per the Poolmath calculator to replenish about 2 ppm per day.

Hope that helps.

 

[Texas Splash]

I didn't run all of your numbers, but some of them seem a little high, so make sure to double-check all your entries on the calculator. Again, you don't need to increase CH, and you certainly don't want to overshoot CYA, so err on the side of caution.

Examples:
CYA, a 35K pool needs about 146 ounces (not pounds) of stabilizer. So be careful when referring to the calculator.
FC - to increase from 0 to 4 is only about 1 3/4 gallons of bleach; NOT 17 gallons. 17 gallons would increase your FC to about 43! Yikes.

 

[RTP]

Thanks, Texas Splash for the assistance.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hey there RTP! Welcome. Skippy and I used to live in VaBch (Redmill Farm) and liked it a LOT.

Ignore the pool store's tests. Anytime I see TDS listed I suspect they're from Leslie's, right? They usually get 'em kinda wrong and try to sell things that are totally unnecessary like PhosFree. Don't buy it and don't trust the results. Wait for your TF-100 (great choice!) and also order up a Taylor's 1766 salt test kit. That's the one I trust.

Bring back test results from the good kits and we'll help you from there, 'k?

Also depending on your SWG model and the water temp, your SWG may just not be working up to snuff yet. Cold water messes them up. Or the cell may just need cleaning?

Yippee

 

[RTP]

To Texas Splash, or anyone else that helps newbies.
I was having a hard time understanding the numbers from the PoolMath Calculator. I put info. in the target, then in the goal section and still had wacky numbers. So what does one do? Start over from the beginning, and then I realized I had entered 350K gallons instead of 35K, makes a difference.

Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

then I realized I had entered 350K gallons instead of 35K

Ha ha.

We've all been there. So with the calculator, it just takes a little adjusting and getting the eyes to know what to update. I'll try to help:
FC - You'll have a Now & Target value entered. Go to the right and update the white field next to "Weight" to ensure you are showing the correct bleach percentage (i.e. 6%, 8.25%, 12%, etc). Once you do those things, the yellow row will update values automatically. Place your mouse curse over the amount of ounces listed and above in the white field (row) it will say exactly how many gallons, pints, etc that really is.

All the other rows work about the same way. Make sure to go to the bottom of the calculator where it says "Suggested Goal Levels" and update the drop-down items (source of chlorine, type of pool, use goals from Troublefreepools).

As you already noted, updating the size (gallons) of your pool is very important. But once you enter a NOW & TARGET value, the calculator should do the rest. If you're not sure of a "TARGET" value, refer to the TFP Recommended Levels and Chlorine/CYA Charts to confirm. Hope that helps. If you still have questions, please let us know.