We are planning on a wooden deck, but want to make sure we can get to the screws to remove the top rail when we eventually have to replace the liner. Our preference is to have the deck go under the lip of the top rail, but it could go over the top rail. What are the recommendations of the folks here who have been through this already?
Need some AGP deck advice
- Thread starter ellruss
- Start date
Unless you're in north Ga. You won't have any frost heave so it won't matter whether you put it on top or under the bottom of the top rail. Ours is under the bottom and I like it better than on top but that's MHO.
We are getting ready to install a deck also and have opted for under the top rail also. It will help with support when someone stands on it also.
My deck is wood and the decking is even with the top rail stopping anywhere from a 1/4" to 3/4" short. I like it like this because to remove the top rail I do not have to remove all the decking. I do have to remove the decking at the connector caps because they need about an inch and a half clearance to remove. This is creating a problem for me right now because the installer (before my time) sunk the screws below the surface and I have to dig out the head of each screw to remove it and some of the decking has been covered and will actually have to be cut. So word to wise - plan ahead.
Thanks Larry. That is exactly what we are trying to avoid. We are planning to use Brazilian hardwood for the deck flooring and I don't want to mar the wood trying to remove it later. I thought about trying to attach the boards at the caps from underneath, but there will be limited room to manuever under the deck once it is built so right now we are leaning toward putting the deck about 6 inches below the top rail so that we can get to the screws to remove the cap. It is not our first choice, but we haven't come up with any good alternatives. I was hoping to give my agp the look of an inground, but I don't think that is going to happen!
One possibility that occurs to me is to put a support beam about three inches from the edge next to the pool. Then cut the decking at that support bean. You would then have a very short cantilever and would only have to remove a couple of screws when you need to remove the caps. This assumes the Brazilian hardwood is strong enough to support a short section fastened only on one end.
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Put a facia board for the final one that goes over the top of your rail and put a hinge on it. The board should be supported but when lifted off leave adequate space to work with the top rail.
I went above the rail to cut down on rail damage. I have seen pools where the deck is below and the rails get all bent up from people standing on them instead of the deck. My installer said as long half of the rails were exposed like the pic i am about to show is he would not charge extra for a liner replacement and the decking would not need to be removed. Heres a pic.
Looks like you have a lot of clearance behind the caps and under the deck. That is a good design.
Thanks, My last deck there was no clearance and the decking would need to be removed for pool liner replacement.
I was not going to make the mistake the last homeowner did. It was a pita to get the winter cover on and it always came loose during the windy winter mos here in michigan.
The new pool and deck has plenty of space and should hold alot better.
I was not going to make the mistake the last homeowner did. It was a pita to get the winter cover on and it always came loose during the windy winter mos here in michigan.
The new pool and deck has plenty of space and should hold alot better.
I like the picture....My top rails are bent up from kid's standing on them...Very good design!!!!