Need pool test recommendations

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ajw22 said:
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Step 8.

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
Click to expand...
Adjusted CYA- 53
 
ajw22 said:
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Step 8.

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
Click to expand...
Adjusted CYA - 53
 
abradleydvm said:
Update :

Bought TF-100 and ran a test today :

Cl-5
Ph-8.2
FC- 3.5, 2nd time 3.5
CC- 1st time 1 , 2nd time 0.5
TC -4.5- 4
CH-200
TA-300 , 2nd time 230
CYA-90

Most recent additions advised by pool store were on 8/5/19 ... 30 lb alkalinity plus based on adjusted and total alkalinity . They explained the CYA issue as reason for adjusting . After going back after changes and ph was at 8.1 , I asked about adjusting ph and they said it would correct itself because if I adjusted it it would drop alkalinity .

I followed directions and took my time ... I assume my test results are accurate .

Please advise ....
Click to expand...


On a side note ... what do you all do with the used solution ... trash or down sink ? And do we rinse tubes in kitchen sink or outside ?
 
abradleydvm said:
CSI = 0.9 based on temp
Click to expand...

I haven’t had a chance to review your PM logs but CSI of 0.9 is not good for a plaster pool. You can get scaling at that level. CSI for a plaster pool need to between 0 and -0.3.
 
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Now looked at your PoolMath logs. You didn't record your water temperature. Please do that. I assumed 90.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

To balance your water and Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool you need to get your:

- pH around 7.6
- TA around 100
- CH at least 250

Read Lower Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool

High water temperature raises the CSI. When your water cools down in the winter you then need to let the pH rise towards 7.8 to keep it from going below -0.3.
 
ajw22 said:
Now looked at your PoolMath logs. You didn't record your water temperature. Please do that. I assumed 90.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

To balance your water and Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool you need to get your:

- pH around 7.6
- TA around 100
- CH at least 250

Read Lower Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool

High water temperature raises the CSI. When your water cools down in the winter you then need to let the pH rise towards 7.8 to keep it from going below -0.3.
Click to expand...

I did record it and it would not save for some reason ... tried it twice ... temp was 92 ... will try again .... thank you ??
 

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abradleydvm said:
I am new to this ... I have a manual fill ... attached to my water hydrant .... so get ph and TA of tap wAter ?
Click to expand...

Yes. From whatever source you use to top off your pool from evaporation.
 
abradleydvm said:
CSI = 0.9 based on temp
Click to expand...

The only thing I am struggling to understand is if I have very little to no combined chlorine and I have enough free chlorine why do we need such high chlorine levels with the high CYA .... the pool is clear and no algae or cloudiness . I will go back to pool school video and review .... I’m guessing chlorine lock ?

I also would like to start liquid chlorine but I have two buckets of product ( pucks and granular shock ) I would like to not waste if it is at all possible ....?
 
Chlorine lock is a misunderstanding of the FC/CYA Levels that pool stores say when your FC isn't high enough for your cya level.

If you wish to ride it out at "enough FC", we'll see you back when it becomes a problem.

If you wish to prevent that, the levels TFP recommends are what you will need to adhere to.

Your choice. Your pool. Keep your pucks and shock product dry and available for your vacations, You may need them over the next few years. But understand what they do to your pool water.
 
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Every 10lbs of tablets or shock you use will raise your CYA by 40. Right now you need to exchange 50% of your water to get it down to a manageable CYA 50. This will has only increase in time.

In the meantime get your CSI under control or you will develop a scale problem on your plaster.
 
abradleydvm said:
The only thing I am struggling to understand is if I have very little to no combined chlorine and I have enough free chlorine why do we need such high chlorine levels with the high CYA .... the pool is clear and no algae or cloudiness . I will go back to pool school video and review .... I’m guessing chlorine lock ?

I also would like to start liquid chlorine but I have two buckets of product ( pucks and granular shock ) I would like to not waste if it is at all possible ....?
Click to expand...
Great question. I see where you are struggling. You are considering your FC of 3.5 to be "enough" as you mentioned. However, that is the problem. Your idea of enough is inaccurate. Enough chlorine is the proper amount per the FC/CYA Levels which for a CYA of 100 is a target range of 11-13 ppm with a minimum of 8 ppm. So you have much less than enough FC. I think you are basing enough on conventional pool knowledge which excludes the fact that CYA buffers FC. So the higher the CYA, the higher FC is needed to produce the same sanitation levels. A pool that is crystal clear and algae free can easily harbor harmful bacteria. Every swimmer introduces feces to the pool which sluffs off of their body, sweat, and sometimes of course, urine. Pets and wildlife do the same. Your FC at 3.5 (with a CYA of 100 or greater) is not providing adequate kill rates, meaning it's killing bacteria too slowly to be safe. You are also only one unlucky day away from a cloudy then green pool. Algae is not visible when it first forms. By the time you see cloudiness, it has already multiplied significantly. Then when it becomes green, well, you get the picture. Addressing the CC aspect. CC is formed when chlorine attacks contaminants and they haven't yet been oxidized into thin air, mostly by the sun. You currently don't have enough contaminants (algae, etc.) to cause CC to form and therefore register. So that's a good thing but it's only temporary if you keep that FC level with your high CYA. Driving without a seatbelt is perfectly safe until you have an accident.

You'll need to think about your strong desire and push to use your tablets. If it's a money thing, it was just a wrong decision to purchase them (which you didn't know at the time - so not anyone's fault) and it's behind you now. Probably close to 100% of those here have made such unknowing mistakes at one point or another. You are best storing them away and after you've got your pool into a stable operating condition, using them for vacations and such, when you can tolerate a little CYA increase and use the benefit of a slow release chlorine to offset not being able to add liquid chlorine. Though the easiest option by far is to install a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) to add FC every day for you.

Please continue to ask about issues you struggle with. We are here to help. Literally, that's the only reason we are here.
 
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frogabog said:
Chlorine lock is a misunderstanding of the FC/CYA Levels that pool stores say when your FC isn't high enough for your cya level.

If you wish to ride it out at "enough FC", we'll see you back when it becomes a problem.

If you wish to prevent that, the levels TFP recommends are what you will need to adhere to.

Your choice. Your pool. Keep your pucks and shock product dry and available for your vacations, You may need them over the next few years. But understand what they do to your pool water.
Click to expand...
Thank you ..... TFP method is so logical and makes total sense in regards to the science ..... i am only nervous about the transition . This forum is educating me and I feel will help me transition smoothly . Thanks for all the advice . ??
 
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