Need info on Jandy valves.

fponzani

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
21
#1
I have been unable to find a good description of Jandy's 3-way Neverlube valves on their website. Maybe I was looking in the wrong place. None of the pool stores in my area carry Jandy valves (Hayward only). The people at the stores are unfamiliar with them and not very willing to find out what I need to know. At any rate, I have a few questions to ask.

1. The Neverlubes are listed as either 1 1/2-2" or 2-2 1/2". Does this mean that pipes of either diameter can be connected to that valve without an adapter? How do they achieve this? Does the bigger pipe go outside the port and the smaller inside? Or is the inside of the port stepped?

2. My plumbing is 2". I assume I could use either size valve. But is there a difference in the size of the internal pathway between the two sizes? I'd prefer the larger, so as to reduce pressure loss.

3. Can the valves be configured so any of the three ports can be the "common"?

4. My understanding of a 3-way valve is that either port can be selected by itself, or both can be selected at the same time. Is this right? Is it possible to shut it completely, so that no water flows through the valve?

5. Where can I get information such as dimensions? My pool equipment is in a pump room and space is a bit tight. It would be helpful to know how big they are.


Thanks!
 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
#3
fponzani said:
I have been unable to find a good description of Jandy's 3-way Neverlube valves on their website. Maybe I was looking in the wrong place. None of the pool stores in my area carry Jandy valves (Hayward only). The people at the stores are unfamiliar with them and not very willing to find out what I need to know. At any rate, I have a few questions to ask.

Ask away, Welcome to TFP!!

1. The Neverlubes are listed as either 1 1/2-2" or 2-2 1/2". Does this mean that pipes of either diameter can be connected to that valve without an adapter? How do they achieve this? Does the bigger pipe go outside the port and the smaller inside? Or is the inside of the port stepped?

They will take the pipe directly into the smaller opening - if you opt for the larger you need to use a coupling to connect the pipe to the valve

2. My plumbing is 2". I assume I could use either size valve. But is there a difference in the size of the internal pathway between the two sizes? I'd prefer the larger, so as to reduce pressure loss.

The 2" valve has larger diameter internals - though the gates are interchangeable- you'll get a little better flow through the 2 - 2 1/2"

3. Can the valves be configured so any of the three ports can be the "common"?

Yes! and you can reposition the top so that the 'stops' work with the way you'll usually use it

4. My understanding of a 3-way valve is that either port can be selected by itself, or both can be selected at the same time. Is this right? Is it possible to shut it completely, so that no water flows through the valve?

Most certainly :) they are great valves the part # for the 2 - 2 1/2" is 4717

5. Where can I get information such as dimensions? My pool equipment is in a pump room and space is a bit tight. It would be helpful to know how big they are.

If you have 6" to play with, that should be enough (I haven't measured on lately - or, now that you have the part # you may be able to find the info online


Thanks!
We're here to help each other, if you need any advice on the install, just ask - I've installed hundreds of these.

Thanks for doing the reading at Pool School before posting and for making a sig! :goodjob:
 

fponzani

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
21
#4
Thanks for the reply guys.

The pdf's on the Jandy website are either for their backwash valves or just show plumbing diagrams. They don't describe the 2- and 3-way valves in detail.

"They will take the pipe directly into the smaller opening - if you opt for the larger you need to use a coupling to connect the pipe to the valve"

I understand what you are saying, and since I have 2" plumbing I should be able to simply glue directly to the valve, right? I'm just left wondering why they call it a 2-2 1/2" if the 2 1/2 requires an adapter.
 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
#5
You've got the right idea!

Now let's discuss inner diameter and outer diameter of pipe. The inner diameter refers to the size of the hole in the pipe, the outer diameter is the actual size of the pipe (including the thickness of the 'walls' of the pipe). The valve's insert side is sized to accept the outer diameter of a 2" pipe, the outside of the valve is the same size as the outside of a 2 1/2 pipe - therefore you need to use a connector to put the 2 1/2" pipe on (just like joining 2 pieces of 2 1/2" pipe together). All in all, it's pretty ingenious :goodjob: you can use the same valve to accommodate 2 pipe sizes :-D
 

fponzani

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
21
#6
Aaaah. Ok, now I get it. In fact, you did say "coupling", not adapter. Excellent. Thanks, Waste.

I'm installing my pool equipment into a pump room in a poolhouse. Not tons of room, but I think I can squeeze it in there. In regards to these valves, I'm going to use actuators on them and they will be a bit of a reach into close quarters to access. Since you were so gracious to offer your help, I'll ask you this...what would be the least amount of room I should maintain in front of the valve in the interest of servicability? This is assuming the valve is installed "vertically", not flat. The valve would be towards the rear of a 40" deep pump room with access from the side. I'll be able to reach it, just not directly from the front.

Thanks, again.

(BTW, I see that you are a pool builder. I interviewed a few PB's, asked around, and honestly, I wasn't very impressed. I'm sure this is not the case for all PB's. I was asking for an automatic cover, a SWG, and at least 2" plumbing. You'd have thought I wanted them to build the Sistine Chapel. Not one pool "professional" I talked to really understood the advantages of 2" or larger plumbing. The usual recommendation was to use 1 1/2" pipes and slam a 2hp pump on it. Everything was done the old way, by rule-of-thumb. I'm educating one of the local PB's and their distributor about the Quad D.E. and Intelliflo VF. In fact, once I get dialed in, they want to come out and see my installation. Apparently, I'm the first person in the area to buy either of these!)
 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
#7
Measured one of the 2 - 2 1/2 valves this AM and it's 6 1/2" on the long side of the tee and 6" across the one port part. Keep plenty of clearance where the actuator goes - you never know when you'll need to access it :wink:

I hear ya on PBs doing things old school :hammer: That's why I come to places like this - I want to be informed as to the better/ proper ways of doing my job 8)

I'll get back to you on the pm in a few days (or more :oops: )
 

chatcher

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2007
62
Raceland, Kentucky
#8
waste said:
3. Can the valves be configured so any of the three ports can be the "common"?
Yes! and you can reposition the top so that the 'stops' work with the way you'll usually use it
My first reaction to your answer was "Huh? Impossible!" But it seems there is more to these valves than Jandy mentions in any of their literature. I could have done a lot neater plumbing job on the half I have finished if it had occurred to me you could "redesign" the valves just by repositioning the covers! It also now occurs to me that if you use the center port as common but turn the cover 180 degrees, the valve changes from the "as shipped" bevavior of having all ports open as the valve turns to closing off the common line in mid-position.

Thanks for that new insight, waste! Between that and the "undocumented" ability to change the Goldline actuators to stop at any valve position (such as leaving a port barely open to "leak" make-up water into my spa), my plumbing design continues to evolve.
 

fponzani

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
21
#9
chatcher wrote:

Thanks for that new insight, waste! Between that and the "undocumented" ability to change the Goldline actuators to stop at any valve position (such as leaving a port barely open to "leak" make-up water into my spa), my plumbing design continues to evolve.

I've found much of the documentation for pool equipment absolutely dismal. The manual for the actuators (both Pentair and Jandy) make no mention how they operate. If someone can describe how they can be controlled and positioned, it would help me tremendously. Because although I have an Intelliflo VF, I'm finding the cost of the Pentair automation systems (Easytouch, Intellitouch) a tough pill to swallow. So I'm looking at a home-brew solution (with the Intellicomm), even it means controlling the actuators with switches for my cleaner, slide and water features.

Ponz
 

chatcher

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2007
62
Raceland, Kentucky
#10
I can speak for the Goldline actuators, but others are probably the same. The actuator has a motor and two limit switches. Depending on which wires the controller applies voltage to, the actuator will turn in one or the other direction until stopped by a limit switch. The limit switches are operated by cams on the actuator shaft. The cams can be repositioned on the shaft to operate the switches at the desired valve opening. There is a handy switch on the actuator which reverses the operation of the actuator (valve open vs. shut on the controller) or turns it off. With the manual handle and actuator cover removed and the controller turned on, you can run the valve through its range by flipping that switch from one position to the other. Move the cams until the valve stops where you want it to in each direction. Goldline instructions show how to position the cams only for standard full range valve operation, but you can set them for partial valve movement.