Need Advice on Water Test Results

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J

j-dubb

0
Gold Supporter
Feb 2, 2018
15
Jenks, Ok
So I've been using a TF-100 for a little while now and here are my last two tests. It rained quite a bit last week and again this week and the water went from clear to cloudy. So I tested and noticed my FC was low. So I turned up the % on my SWG and increased the filter run time. I should have only done one of those two at a time, but being a brand new pool and owner I'm unfourtanly learning as I go. Soooo I turned up the SWG and did the normal, cleaned filters, baskets and backwashed if it needed it. I was watching the water to see if it would clear up and it still reamained cloudy. So I ran test again a week later and my FC was at 12.5, PH was 8.2. So I turned my SWG off and from reading on here let the sun and time lower my FC, I also added some Muratic Acid to lower PH and some Calcium Chlorideto bring up Calcium Hardness both additions according to Pool Math. Gave it another week and still cloudy and here are my results from today and last week when my FC and PH were high. My FC is low so I turned my SWG back on and lowered the % this time so I don't run it up to 12.5 again. I'm trying to figure out the correct % and run time of my SWG to stay in the right area and my PH is 7.6, but I'm confused on my the water is so cloudy and won't clear up. I thought it was to low of FC at first, so I ran it up and thinking it would clear up and then read where concentrated amounts can also be cloudy so I turned it off to bring it down. However during the up and down of the FC it never even attempted to clear up. I'm doing something wrong just not sure where. Thanks for any and all the help.

Last week-Cloudy water
FC-12.5
CC-.5
PH-8.2
TA-110
CH-150
CYA-55
Salt-2800
Temp-72
CSI-.18

Today- Cloudy water
FC-2.0
CC-0.0
PH-7.6
TA-90
CH-375
CYA-60
Salt-2900
Temp-69
CSI-.17
 
I suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This will help you determine if you have organics in your water.

High pH and adding calcium when you have higher pH will also result in cloudy water. It should clear if you keep your pH in the 7's.
 
mknauss said:
I suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This will help you determine if you have organics in your water.

High pH and adding calcium when you have higher pH will also result in cloudy water. It should clear if you keep your pH in the 7's.
Click to expand...

So I did the OCLT and it went from FC of 4 to FC of 3.5 in about 7 hours overnight. Also my Calcium went down quite a bit and I just recently brought it up this week with some Calcium Chloride, does it usually go up and then bounce back down some like that? Went from 150 to 375 and this morning 225?
It rained two nights ago so I'm sure that had some effect on it, but I didn't think it would change all my numbers like it did. Here is a full test this morning and above the second test was from two days ago.
I'm thinking I should just do a SLAM and start fresh, but I'm still trying to learn as much as I can as quick as I can. The crazy part is my brother in law has pretty much the same pool and does the simple PH, Chlorine test and his water always looks good and all they do it shock it from time to time. I have been trying to get him to buy a TF-100 kit and join on here, but he thinks this is testing to much "extra" things that don't matter and besides you're having more problems than I am and I don't do anything. lol It's frustrating at times, but I know once I get it, I will have it. Thanks again for your help.

FC-3.5
CC-.5
PH-7.5
TA-80
CH-225
CYA-55
Salt-3100
Temp-64
CSI- -0.60
 
CH does not change unless you add calcium or remove water that has calcium in it and replace it with lower calcium water.

Your test differences are testing error. You will get better at it. Read the Extended Test Directions in pool school.
 
Your calcium hardness should not fluctuate like that. Check your testing procedures and expiration dates on reagents. Are you using a SpeedStir? I would recommend one to improve consistency with your results.
 
I thought it was a testing error so I tested it again, same result. You guys know better and more than me so I have a SpeedStir on order so hopefuly everything becomes consistant. I don't think it's algae it's just pretty cloudy. I've seen algae in pools before and their water was green. Is there anyway to test for that? Also what other test kits are good to have besides the TF-100. I just ordered a K-1766 with the SpeedStir as I want to make sure the Hayward equipment is accuratee. When you say keep my FC elevated for a few days, what number should I shoot for. 60 ppm for CYA says target is 4. Should I take it higher than that or keep it around 4-5?
 
Use the upper target level for FC. In reality, that is always best to use. Do not try to ride the minimum.
 
Tested the FC, CC and PH today, water still looks cloudy. It might have gotten alittle worse. FC came up some as I turned up the SWG alittle, CC went down from .5 to 0 and the PH went up from 7.5 to 7.8 so I turned off the bubblers for now to try to keep my PH down. How many days should I stay at the 4-5 range of FC and PH in the 7's with no change to the water before I try something else? I don't think the water is green but it might be a cloudy/hazy green if I tell myself it is.... I keep the bastkets, cleaner and filter clean. I have backwashed when needed. Could it be the filter? It is brand new and only been in service for 7-8 months, but surely the sand was filled up correctly and doesn't need to be changed?

FC-5.0
CC-0
PH-7.8, I added the recommended amount of 31.45% to lower it to 7.2.
Water still cloudy.
 
It is not the sand.
If it does not clear by tomorrow you should go back into the SLAM process.
 

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I'm 29 hr's into my first SLAM and my Speedstir and SampleSizer came in so that will help eliminate some user error. The water is starting to look better, but I have a ways to go. I have a couple questions.

1. How soon can I test my FC after I have added some Liquid Chlorine to get an accurate test? For instance I tested my FC at 9:00pm and I needed to add some, so I did and now I'm trying to see how much I lose from right now until the morning, but I didn't know if the Chlorine had time to mix/filter in good enough to get an accurate reading or if it will continue to climb for awhile and I need to wait? I would like to test it and then go to bed and get up in the morning and check again.

2. Do I need to run my grotto and shears some? Since they all have their own pumps and have water in the pvc and its not ciruclating. I was wondering if I needed to run both of them for a few hours to kill off any algae that could possibly be stored in those systems?

3. Do I need to test CYA during the SLAM in case it moves up and the shock level increases or decreases or do I stay with what it was before the SLAM of 60?

Thanks again.
 
You should be able to test your FC about 30 minutes after adding.
You should run your auxiliary systems for a few hours each day to get some chlorine into those systems.
Your CYA should not change much unless you are backwashing a lot.
 
I ran my other sytems today and also added some DE to my filter so I'll also be keeping an eye on that. I added one lb of pressure to my filter like the directions say to do and I checked it every 45 minutes or so and after only an hour and a half the pressure had climbed 10 lbs, which was alittle over 50% more pressure so I backwashed. It wasn't to terribly bad and didn't take long to clear up in the site glass, but since it seems to be working do I need to add the DE after each backwash now to help filter? The news is calling for some heavy rains tomorrow and again on Monday. They said it could be potential flooding, should I just continue on with the SLAM or stop and wait until all the rain passes to and start again?
 
Last edited:
So here in Oklahoma we have got around 9-10 inches of rain in less than 2 days and unfortunately my neighbors water and mud flooded my yard and ran over the top of my deck and into the pool. My water literally looks like a pond/lake. It also brought tons of dead grass in it which I have been trying to get cleared for a few days. That all happened right during my first ever SLAM, so everything is really screwed up now. I've been vacuuming and back washing, cleaning filters, skimmers and adding DE to help clear up this water. My question now is my CYA is really low, somewhere around 25. So in order to start the SLAM again, should I round up and use 30 as my number? I don't really have to add much to start the SLAM process again if that's the case. However if I still use 60 like before then I need to add quite a bit of Chlorine. Should I do the sock method and get my CYA up some or just start slamming and use 30 as my number which would make the SLAM target only 12? Below are my test results from this morning, the rain and mud screwed everything up right as everything was clearing up good.
Thanks!

FC-9.0
CC-.5
PH-7.2
TA-60
CH-175
CYA-20-30
Salt-2900
Temp-74
 
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