need advice on air bubbles

Apr 4, 2018
51
Knoxville
sorry for lengthy post but i am baffled by bubbles.

my pool suddenly has more air bubbles coming out of one of the returns. I've historically had bubbles from that return for a little while after stopping and restarting the pump, but now it is continuous. Pool has three returns, but the bubbles come out only from one of them.

pool is inground gunite, about 40 years old.

I have a Superpump -- the body was new in 2018 (when i replaced the old motor with a variable speed) although the basket lid is old. I understand the basket lid seal is the most likely culprit. I have recently twice put in a new basket lid gasket, meticulously cleaning the gasket area and liberally applying Magic Lube (should i use Magic Lube 2 instead?) and tightening carefully, to no avail. I do see bubbles and churning in the basket, but historically i have always seen at least a little of that and not seen continuous bubbles at the return. It does look like there is more air in the basket after the pump has run at a lower speed than after it runs at higher speed, which i understand is a function of the higher speed causing more suction and pulling the lid down tighter. I have screwed the lid pretty darn finger tight, trying to keep both sides the same tightness. Is it possible to overtighten?

Attached photo of the edge of the basket and lid shows that on the left side there is a fraction of a millimeter gap between the lid and the pump body. I cannot get this gap to close. I have sprayed it with soapy water and i cannot see that water gets sucked in at this point. Should i try filling it in with Magic Lube?

Additional attached photo shows return lines with gate valves. These valves are probably 40 years old and i suspect them of adding to the air intrusion but cannot verify. I have closed them off one at a time and do not see any change in air in the basket. The valve stems have a little play; I have wrapped a thin plastic film (strip cut from shopping bag) where the stems meet the packing nuts and do not see any evidence of suction. The packing nuts do not seem loose, and due to their age i am hesitant to try tightening them, much less repacking them. Would it be worth trying to pack magic lube down into them?

The photo also shows threaded pvc connectors between the ground and the gate valves. I added these when i replaced the pump body in 2018. They seem nice and tight and i do not suspect them.

I have a sand filter with a Pac Fab/Pentair multiport valve; i replaced the valve top assembly in 2016 and i think it is ok. I have opened the air bleed and do not find air in the filter.

I might add that the pool seems to lose a little water from time to time, but it is sporadic and also baffling. I have run bucket tests with pump off and on and with plugging one skimmer at a time and cannot find a pattern. I temporarily lowered the water level below the skimmers and verified there is no leak in the pool shell itself. I wonder if there is something in the plumbing that is affected by varying moisture levels in the soil around the pool. I have a leak detection person coming in a few weeks.

Any advice?


pump edge.jpeg
 

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sorry for lengthy post but i am baffled by bubbles.

my pool suddenly has more air bubbles coming out of one of the returns. I've historically had bubbles from that return for a little while after stopping and restarting the pump, but now it is continuous. Pool has three returns, but the bubbles come out only from one of them.

pool is inground gunite, about 40 years old.

I have a Superpump -- the body was new in 2018 (when i replaced the old motor with a variable speed) although the basket lid is old. I understand the basket lid seal is the most likely culprit. I have recently twice put in a new basket lid gasket, meticulously cleaning the gasket area and liberally applying Magic Lube (should i use Magic Lube 2 instead?) and tightening carefully, to no avail. I do see bubbles and churning in the basket, but historically i have always seen at least a little of that and not seen continuous bubbles at the return. It does look like there is more air in the basket after the pump has run at a lower speed than after it runs at higher speed, which i understand is a function of the higher speed causing more suction and pulling the lid down tighter. I have screwed the lid pretty darn finger tight, trying to keep both sides the same tightness. Is it possible to overtighten?

Attached photo of the edge of the basket and lid shows that on the left side there is a fraction of a millimeter gap between the lid and the pump body. I cannot get this gap to close. I have sprayed it with soapy water and i cannot see that water gets sucked in at this point. Should i try filling it in with Magic Lube?

Additional attached photo shows return lines with gate valves. These valves are probably 40 years old and i suspect them of adding to the air intrusion but cannot verify. I have closed them off one at a time and do not see any change in air in the basket. The valve stems have a little play; I have wrapped a thin plastic film (strip cut from shopping bag) where the stems meet the packing nuts and do not see any evidence of suction. The packing nuts do not seem loose, and due to their age i am hesitant to try tightening them, much less repacking them. Would it be worth trying to pack magic lube down into them?

The photo also shows threaded pvc connectors between the ground and the gate valves. I added these when i replaced the pump body in 2018. They seem nice and tight and i do not suspect them.

I have a sand filter with a Pac Fab/Pentair multiport valve; i replaced the valve top assembly in 2016 and i think it is ok. I have opened the air bleed and do not find air in the filter.

I might add that the pool seems to lose a little water from time to time, but it is sporadic and also baffling. I have run bucket tests with pump off and on and with plugging one skimmer at a time and cannot find a pattern. I temporarily lowered the water level below the skimmers and verified there is no leak in the pool shell itself. I wonder if there is something in the plumbing that is affected by varying moisture levels in the soil around the pool. I have a leak detection person coming in a few weeks.

Any advice?


View attachment 460805
Any one of those gate valves and plumbing unions as well as the fitting going into it can be the source of air being pulled into the pump. Any of the threaded fittings as well. Yes, it could be the packing at the valve stems. You can try sealing the threaded portions with some silicone sealant at each valve and the inlet fitting. A replumb with 2-way Jandy-type valves and a hi-temp pump union would be better.
 
thanks for reply poolman. When you say silicone sealant, you mean like one of the DAP products? Would you put such a sealant where the valve stems meet the packing nuts, even for testing purposes?

do you have any reaction to the slight gap visible at the edge of where the pump body and lid meet?

I have considered a replumb but only as a last resort. And the return lines are so close together i would have to see if Jandy valves would even fit, absent rerouting.

thanks again
 
The left side is higher than the right side, which indicates a possible issue.

1667499583577.png

You can tighten the packing nuts some to see if that helps.

Get down close to the suction area and then have someone shut off the pump and watch for water to squirt out as the pump turns off.
 
Any one of those gate valves and plumbing unions as well as the fitting going into it can be the source of air being pulled into the pump. Any of the threaded fittings as well. Yes, it could be the packing at the valve stems. You can try sealing the threaded portions with some silicone sealant at each valve and the inlet fitting. A replumb with 2-way Jandy-type valves and a hi-temp pump union would be better.
hey poolman, thanks again for your thoughts. I just want to let you know that i went ahead and repacked the valve stems and that fixed the bubbles, at least at higher pump speed. I had been apprehensive about wrenching such ancient valves, but they cooperated.
 
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The left side is higher than the right side, which indicates a possible issue.

View attachment 460945

You can tighten the packing nuts some to see if that helps.

Get down close to the suction area and then have someone shut off the pump and watch for water to squirt out as the pump turns off.
yes a gap on the left side. The top edge of the basket is not quite flat. No matter how much i tighten the lid on that side, there is still a gap. I might try jamming magic lube in there.
 
I have recently twice put in a new basket lid gasket, meticulously cleaning the gasket area and liberally applying Magic Lube (should i use Magic Lube 2 instead?)
Yes! Magic Lube 2 is silicone based, much better for rubber parts long term than the PTFE in Magic Lube. If possible, see if you can clean all the ML off of your rubber parts & replace with ML2.
 
The basket should not be near the top.

Can you show what you mean?
Basket was imprecise wording on my part. What i mean is that the top edge of the pump housing itself is not quite flat where it comes in contact with the lid -- it has a slight dip on the left side, at least along the edge, creating the gap which is shown in my pic. I don't know if the gap extends to the lid gasket. I might try jamming magic lube 2 into the gap, sort of like a shim.

One question this has raised is whether it is possible to overtighten the lid such that it overcompresses or squeezes or pinches the gasket to create a gap
 

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With the lid off.
Thanks James -- your followup caused me to look more closely, with lid off. At the very edge of the top of the pump body on the intake side, there is a bit of bulge above the pvc fitting, which causes a gap on the left side when the lid is on. Half an inch away from that edge, right along the gasket, it is a little bit flatter so the gap should be smaller. Third pic shows that on the motor side of the pump body, there is a dip along the top left, which i had not noticed before.

No air in the pump when i run motor at high speed, but when i run it at 1800 it does let a little air in.

I've been using magic lube on the gasket, but i will try magic lube 2 and put it on thick in the suspect areas.

If i ever buy another pump body, by golly i will examine it extremely closely.pump edge 2.jpegpump near gasket.jpegpump near motor.jpeg
 
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